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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a strange one currently where some rooms have oak flooring in good condition and some have plywood finished to same level. For some strange reason they put linoleum in the hall way and hardwoods in the dinning room but carpets in the living room. All floor levels are the same after taking up the floor coverings but would it be ok to install the current 3/8" flooring over the existing 3/4" nailed down oak in the same direction as the current floor? I have always followed the instructions and done it opposite direction when its sitting on top of joists but do i follow that same rule even if its nailed on a subfloor?

Also the floor is floating or nailed. I normally nail but would it be worth considering floating this one?
 

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Paul
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Floating is fine with me. Just feels more solid when stapled but I never laid over this situation before. I will give her the option of floating or running it the opposite way.

Thanks guys
Just use a good underlayment and prep as you normally would and you'll be good to go. The upside is later on down the road (and we know a 3/8 product Will be replaced) demo will be much quicker, cleaner, and cheaper.
 

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Just use a good underlayment and prep as you normally would and you'll be good to go. The upside is later on down the road (and we know a 3/8 product Will be replaced) demo will be much quicker, cleaner, and cheaper.

& Hopefully the next guy is a real floor guy & can save the existing hardwood.:whistling:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
pinwheel said:
& Hopefully the next guy is a real floor guy & can save the existing hardwood.:whistling:laughing::laughing::laughing:
That was my first option for her until I pulled the carpets to rest of house. Talk about mish mash of floors. I have a guy who does my finishing so its a shame I couldn't go that route.
 

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Head Light Bulb Changer
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Would another option be to pull up the 3/4 ply and install a real floor? Keeping in mind the jamb and casing height (Is it sitting up for carpet tuck?) Is the old HW in good enough condition to refinish? Just a thought, as I hate to see good HW get mangled by putting more nails/glue/etc on top, so it will never be reusable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
66 Shelby said:
Would another option be to pull up the 3/4 ply and install a real floor? Keeping in mind the jamb and casing height (Is it sitting up for carpet tuck?) Is the old HW in good enough condition to refinish? Just a thought, as I hate to see good HW get mangled by putting more nails/glue/etc on top, so it will never be reusable.
Yes it could def be redone with 3/4 through out the rest of the house but the budget didn't stretch to that. its a nice 3/8th shaw oak engineered that's going in but if it was me I would have put 3/4 back down for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice solid 3/4" prefinished can be found around $4.50/ft.. And I've done plenty of nice 1/2" engineered that cost $3-4/ft...
These 3/8" are nice for $3 a sqft ft. Normally i aint impressed with boards in that price range but Shaw stuff has always been top notch for me. Not the cheapest but that ScufResist is impressive. Aint got one scratch on our floors after 5 years. Even with me pulling stuff over them all the time and me kid driving his bike on them with chunks of grit in the wheels.
 

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Mirage is 3/8". Geez.

Why not just spend some money on adhesive? Bostik's maybe? I hate the stuff, but it's what I'd use in the application you're describing.
 

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What is supposed to happen if one of these imaginary rules is broken? Uggh. Wood over wood = wood. WTF, guys? All the rules stay the same. Were the question to do with encapsulating the existing with sheet vinyl or something, then I'd see a potential problem...for the sheet vinyl. If the existing is physically suitable for going over, go over.

All that said, perpendicular would be better if possible, but it's only a floor anyway. It's not holding the house up. It's an image you walk on. It's a thicker version of paint. 2 coats no biggie.
 

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What is supposed to happen if one of these imaginary rules is broken? Uggh. Wood over wood = wood. WTF, guys? All the rules stay the same. Were the question to do with encapsulating the existing with sheet vinyl or something, then I'd see a potential problem...for the sheet vinyl. If the existing is physically suitable for going over, go over.

All that said, perpendicular would be better if possible, but it's only a floor anyway. It's not holding the house up. It's an image you walk on. It's a thicker version of paint. 2 coats no biggie.
Not really. I got a call today from a guy that wants an engineered floor in his kitchen. Old house with 3/4 hardwood. Basement is old, has two dehumidifiers running constantly.

So if I install a new hardwood floor running parallel with the old with a vapor barrier in between, you are telling me that the old hardwood that is exposed to a wet basement underneath is going to expand and contract at the same rate as the new hardwood on the top side that is exposed to a well conditioned environment?
 

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I'm not "telling you" anything. I'm simply writing the obvious. You throwing out some red herring for the sake of argument doesn't make anything I've written untrue.

And how the hell can this thread have gone this far with NO ONE asking how wide the existing 3/4 is? Were it my job, that would be the locus of my focus.

After all, Science!
 
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