2x6 you get r-19. 2x4 with minimal windows which equals less heat loss and is as effient. But who wants less windows? Other than the insulation factor 2x4 is cheaper in the building phase.

 

Depending on what "zone" you are in, and if the IECC is enforced as part of your building codes, you may have no choice but to build with 2x6 for the added R value. That's the way it is in my area.

 

Depending on what "zone" you are in, and if the IECC is enforced as part of your building codes, you may have no choice but to build with 2x6 for the added R value. That's the way it is in my area.

It is enforced here but the only way around it is like four windows per floor level; then 2x4 can be used. It probably has some thing to do with sq ft per floor but I don't really care to know one window per room is nasty unless you like living in a cave.

 

I am told that it is required here depending on the location (wind zones). Right now everything is in such a state of flux, you don't know who to believe and what was code today may change tomorrow.

 

I am in San Antonio, Texas. So the "zone" would be ?

 

You have to check that out locally.

 

Bexar county is in Zone 4.

That means R-26 ceilings, R-13 walls, R-11 floors, R-5 basement walls, and no required slab perimeter R value. With these minimum requirements, you can build with 2x4's if you use the higher density 3-1/2" fiberglass in the walls.

 

What MD said.

 

In addition to the high density insulation there is another method to meet the required R factors. There is a styrofoam paneling that you can put on the exterior of the building and then stucco over that. Im not sure what it is called as I stick with 2X6 walls. Much stronger and most of the seismic hold downs require it. And then there is also the ICFs' that can be used. No wood at all hardly. But IMHO a serious pain in the ass to work with.

 

And then there is also the ICFs' that can be used. No wood at all hardly. But IMHO a serious pain in the ass to work with.

That's not a humble opinion. That's a factual statement. No doubt.

 

In addition to the high density insulation there is another method to meet the required R factors. There is a styrofoam paneling that you can put on the exterior of the building and then stucco over that. Im not sure what it is called as I stick with 2X6 walls. Much stronger and most of the seismic hold downs require it. And then there is also the ICFs' that can be used. No wood at all hardly. But IMHO a serious pain in the ass to work with.

EIFS?
Have heard rumors that a certain high-end apartment building in Cleveland where some of the Cavaliers spend their "post-game" evenings is making them sick.
Covered with EIFS... Allows no moisture escape/ventilation whatsoever.

Yes,ICFs are also difficult for trades to work with,but very strong.

 

If you have the $$$ go with 2X6. The house has a lot more of a solid "feel" to it not to mention that it really cuts the noise level down. Be prepared for all the extra cost of extension jambs for all your windows and doors.

 

EIFS?
Have heard rumors that a certain high-end apartment building in Cleveland where some of the Cavaliers spend their "post-game" evenings is making them sick.
Covered with EIFS... Allows no moisture escape/ventilation whatsoever.

Yes,ICFs are also difficult for trades to work with,but very strong.

Not the fault of EIFS, sounds like the HVAC wasn't designed properly.

 

hello walls

Gees , these are old threads . Not that its any importance . Its a lot easier by far to frame two by four walls . Mechanically it may be more practical to do 2x6 , not only for R but for electrical roughs ,etc.. Also if its two storys or better . In the higher elevations where you have snow loads to work in to design, 2x6s hold up the heavy loads . Might be a local code as well

 

Up north here near Canada we have what is called the Michigan Energy code. It's great reading....but pretty much everything here ae 2x6's.

 

2*6: 24 o.c, greater r values, less thermal bridging, and IMHO crowning studs.

 

I always did 2x6 but any short wall, like bays and box window where you have header, window , and a little piece of insulation on the bottom, I always went with 2x4. Since you end up with almost no insulation in the wall you get the advantage of 1) no extension jambs 2) nicer trim detail 3) more room in the bay. By bay I'm talking about the built out floor joist bay with 3 individual windows.

 

If you have any type of volume go with 2x6 or better. I built a crazy house cantering over water with 12' and 14' 2x 4 walls and they just shake; I mean enough to knock pictures off with any winds. I even put studs on 1' centers and it didn't help. We have a rule down here or did. 2x6 on the bottom, 2x4 on the top, that was when everything was 8' walls and energy was cheaper. Now we just frame to the plans and usally have to call the engineer once a job to ask him "are you sure about this". I recomend this because those guys stamp anything. We set a set of trusses a few years ago 60' span 14' walls, 8/12 with a 2x4 bottom cord that colapsed; Come to find out they had to be like 2x6 or 8 (forgot). Last week we were building a 2 story with a deck to support like a 5000 lb hot tub, all joist running to an 18' double 2x12. With joist hangers...still waiting on new engineering.

 

I am in the SoCal desert. 2x6 framing is a good way to go if you are going to be in the house for a long while. My neighbor finished his house a couple of years ago. It has 2x6 exterior walls. He runs his central air all summer long and his bill is only slightly more then those of us with water coolers and older 2x4 houses. I am not sure how 2x6 const compares to sips, it would be interesting to know.

 

Elko NV just went to r21 in all exterior walls R 38 lids or 14" of blown ins.floors are R 19 you cant beat 2x6 exterior walls a much better build

 

Because heat rises, most of your loss/gain is through your ceiling/roof. Because much of your exterior walls are windows and doors, much of your wall space is unaffected by the r-19 vs r-13 difference.

Sure, there is a small difference. You build a better house so you put it in right? Then, you also put in a silent fart fan in the bath, right? Then the owner leaves the fart fan on for an extra hour during the winter. And all you've gained from the savings in the r-19 is gone out the fart fan.

You could probably come up with the same savings by leaving out a window, a skylite, or forgetting the oversized headders.

Then there's the doggie door the owner puts in.

Sure, the r-19 saves some pennies, but why not look first at the dollars?

 

Because heat rises, most of your loss/gain is through your ceiling/roof. Because much of your exterior walls are windows and doors, much of your wall space is unaffected by the r-19 vs r-13 difference.



Sure, the r-19 saves some pennies, but why not look first at the dollars?

That's why it is important to put a little thought in the design and placement of windows and doors, and the house itself. I designed my house myself and incorporated passive solar. Exterior walls are 2x6 with 1/2" foam. The amount of gain from the windows more than offsets what they will lose when the sun sets. My heat basically hasn't run since the beginning of March and when it was so cold here in Feb. the heat never came on in the day time. At night it would run (2 zones HWBB upstairs) for maybe 1-2 hrs. The 1st floor radiant would heat up at night and then radiate during the day along with the solar gain. Results, friends with "convential" sytems running non stop with big$$$ bills and cold houses (save fuel thermostat at 68 tops). Me, usually keep the house at 75 and walk around in a tee shirt and wife sunning herself in her bathing suit on the living room floor.:thumbsup:

 

I think 2x6 at 24"o.c. uses the same board feet as 2x4 at 16"o.c. Just be sure to stack your rafters above your joists. HD insulation, like Owens Corning, can get you R21 in the walls with 2x6. Also, use 3 stud "california corners" and "ladder tees" to stuff in more insulation. See Ruiz's book, "Building and Affordable House" for some other excellent tips. Just be sure to run your mods by your local yocal building inspector first, who may/may not be hip to anything thats not 16"o.c.

I think 16"o.c. was developed because it was the maximum span to support lathe for plaster in the middle ages. It has nothing to do with modern dimensional lumber, but is the "de facto" standard. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

R-20 Walls, R-40 Ceilings.....
2x4 gives you a R-12 and and additional 2 inches of styrofoam gives you over R-20, plus the hot and cold transfer on the plates, studs and rim joists are eliminated....snug as a bug in a rug........:thumbup: then you go and put all that glass in with high tech this and that and get a R7 or 8 WTF...:laughing:

 

I'm shocked by this...c'mon...what stud size....does this affect insulation...2x4 vs. 2x6???????? Cardboard or plywood to sheet a roof, extension jamb a window.....here it's 21/42 .....even in dryer/hotter areas benefit from better insulation.

2x4 walls are unheard of for ext. walls, in this area at least. Geeeeeze.......I'm dumbfounded.

 

I'm shocked by this...c'mon...what stud size....does this affect insulation...2x4 vs. 2x6???????? Cardboard or plywood to sheet a roof, extension jamb a window.....here it's 21/42 .....even in dryer/hotter areas benefit from better insulation.

2x4 walls are unheard of for ext. walls, in this area at least. Geeeeeze.......I'm dumbfounded.

2x4 construction with styrofoam exterior gives you the insulation that you are required. The benifits are that the transfer of hot and cold on the plates and studs is reduced. This form of construction would surpase any convential 2x6 construction when calculating heat loss or gain. Not so when concerned with wind shear, the 2x6 structure is going to fair better.........14 percent of a 8 foot high wall is dimensional lumber with limited R-value. Covering the 14 percent benifits both hot and cold climates....nothing helps with the big bloody holes we can windows......This comes from examples of homes built north of the Arctic Circle....binderdundat:w00t:

 

WNY, in my mixed climate zone, 90% of the houses are built with 2x4s. The only reason I'm given is because "thats the way we've always done it around here" syndrome. It's supposed to be cheaper, but I don't think so. Market demand and governement mandates for more energy efficiency will eventually change the market. There's only so much R factor you can squeeze into a 3.5 inch cavity.