2nd story addition on an existing modular home
Can this be done? I'm going out this week to meet the client and talk about what they want to do. What should I look for? I know we will want to use our architect, but this is just a first meeting.
Stacy
Stacy
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You shouldn't look for anything other than a good meet and great, with the explanation that nothing specific to the job can be discussed until an architect inspects the original plans, and the existing conditions, GMOD
One more thing, many of us here who have been building for years could walk in and advise a client about the potential to build up. We would inspect, foundations, footings, wall construction, and a # of other details that would catch our eye. If you are here asking on the internet, you probably should not be attempting to advise a client, better off to differ to the architect. GMOD
anything can be done. shouldn't be much different from a sticked house. i haven't done one (no a big market for modular in this neck of the woods)
You'll have to talk to the modular company who built it unless the Architect you bring in knows how it was built. They are built alot different then a regular stick framed house.
you do any modular stuff joe?
Although most of the 2 box modulars I've seen around here seem to have adequate support in the center,there are other factors to consider.
From what I've seen:
Spruce is used for framing material and won't have the same rating as DF or a Lam.
Plumbing and wiring may not pass local codes if exposed.
I seen wiring notched into the tops of floor joists,without plates.
The main line from the breaker panel run through exterior studs to get to service location.
I've also heard similar other nightmare scenarios from plumbers and electricians
There are a lot of hidden costs when dealing with this type of addition, so word your contract accordingly.
From what I've seen:
Spruce is used for framing material and won't have the same rating as DF or a Lam.
Plumbing and wiring may not pass local codes if exposed.
I seen wiring notched into the tops of floor joists,without plates.
The main line from the breaker panel run through exterior studs to get to service location.
I've also heard similar other nightmare scenarios from plumbers and electricians
There are a lot of hidden costs when dealing with this type of addition, so word your contract accordingly.
so modular is just a hacked up stick-frame. which is not too different from a 60 year old cape. 2nd story is a 2nd story.
This is good advice here. A long while back I was doing some Drywall and paint work on modulars, mostly where they are joined. However at times we would have to tear down some drywall damaged through shipping or something else. We often uncovered some pretty scary looking stuff.
That's what our architect suggested, too. I have a call into the county to see if they would have a record. This client did not have the house built and does not know the manufacturer.
Thanks,
Stacy
Thanks,
Stacy
I'm saying that there may be hidden violations that will have to be addressed as discovered.
Codes change and most inspectors I have dealt with will require corrections that comply.
Not that it would be any different from a 60 year old cape,just that they may not be anticipated.
Especially if the mod is fairly new.
I was hired to put a window in a modular on the south side.
After I cut the plywood out I discovered that the 220 serivce for the unit was wrapped around from the west side of the house( about 20') through the studs.Had I used a sawsall for the cut I would have been toast.
Just trying to point out they do things quite differently sometimes,and could lead to unexpected expenses,not to mention bodily harm.
Codes change and most inspectors I have dealt with will require corrections that comply.
Not that it would be any different from a 60 year old cape,just that they may not be anticipated.
Especially if the mod is fairly new.
I was hired to put a window in a modular on the south side.
After I cut the plywood out I discovered that the 220 serivce for the unit was wrapped around from the west side of the house( about 20') through the studs.Had I used a sawsall for the cut I would have been toast.
Just trying to point out they do things quite differently sometimes,and could lead to unexpected expenses,not to mention bodily harm.
i always thought that mods were hacked. never really had any confirmation until now :thumbsup:
remodels are still remodels. i've had water lines running between the jack and the window on one house.
most of the older homes have had work done, most of that work was scabbed for one reason or another. just the name of the game with renos I think, it definitely has to be in the contract.
remodels are still remodels. i've had water lines running between the jack and the window on one house.
most of the older homes have had work done, most of that work was scabbed for one reason or another. just the name of the game with renos I think, it definitely has to be in the contract.
From the OP's intro,I gather this is new to them and figured a heads up on expecting the unexpected may save some headaches.
well no they are different in that a modular home is built on a factory floor and uses some of the same methods a mobile home manufacturer uses. A hacked up stick frame is easy to figure out. A modular isnt, unless you actually worked one on a factory floor. Undersized headers. Wiring bundles in chases, Plumbing trees sized to the bare minimum. Ceiling joists and floor joists headed off at flush headers at the center party wall(s) Hinged roofs bearing on attic knee walls. Impossible to match exterior finishes that were manufactured and sourced in regions states away. Foundations that are sometimes "close enough" to the point that the modular sometimes doesn't bear fully where it should, On stacked units your upstairs floor joists are NOT the down stairs ceiling joists as they are independent and separated by a false ceiling plenum. You really need an architect to work with to bid accurately.
There is a guy here who is a expert on modular builds. I can't think of his name. But he didn't post in this thread. If i seen his name i would know it. He has built many. My advice is this. Don't do anything until you talk with the company who built the mod.
On second story addition jobs when I was unsure of the existing structure I built the second story independent. Posts and beams can be structured to support the second story independently of the existing structure. If designed properly, it can add to the visual appeal of the structure.
I AM DOING A Second floor now, existing home 1903, no footings, underpinned 4 corners, build a crib using 4 corners, hung the whole 2nd floor above the existing structure. GMOD
Thanks for all of the great suggestions! I contacted the county, they can give me the builder but not the manufacturer, so I'll see how far I get with that. Our architect is out of the country until after x-mas, but I have already been talking with her about it. Thanks again!
Stacy
Stacy
plating instead of sistering
And when you plate on top of the existing ceiling joists for new floor joists , assuming your ceiling joists arent cut/clipped at the ends for the roof,. that's going to add two risers to your new stairs.
And when you plate on top of the existing ceiling joists for new floor joists , assuming your ceiling joists arent cut/clipped at the ends for the roof,. that's going to add two risers to your new stairs.
yes, it can be done. typically the 1st floor of a modular, wood frame, single family unit has tilt-up truss roof system with osb sheathing resting on 2x8 or 2x10 rim joists. there won't be a sub-floor and joists will insulated to code typically r-30 bat. critical path is to demo roof, temp protection, sub-floor, frame and weather tight. pick your start-work season carefully. include with drywall compound of all 1st floor seems / edges and and re-paint the entire interior. homeowner shouldn't live in the house during construction if possible, and if they do pad your allowances for temp heat / protection / cleaning.
everything below the plate is tight, doing fitout or posting-up on the 1st deck will be more time consuming compared with stick-frame.
everything below the plate is tight, doing fitout or posting-up on the 1st deck will be more time consuming compared with stick-frame.
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