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Yeah blade type makes a massive difference. My wood blade cuts no wear near as well as my PVC blade in composite, PVC, vinyl, plastics etc etc even though its the same tooth count. Also cuts smoother and much quieter. Strange how tooth design makes such a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys I just ordered a tenryu 28. I have couple festool 48's I thought I would try tenryu.

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tjbnwi said:
Did you check the tooth geometry? That is far more important than tooth count. Tom
As Tom says that is the most important. Here's an example. Left is my PVC blade. It has more teeth than the others but goes through composite, PVC, alloy, plastic etc etc like butter but its awful on wood. Blade Circular saw Tool Gear shaper Tool accessory Now look at the tooth angle on the wood blade and then the PVC/alloy blade. Top one is wood. Metal Rim Wheel Now look at the way the teeth are cut Wood Plant Fictional character Flower
PVC (See the way one tooth has square edges then the other tooth has an angled cut)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks BC, Tom, so who makes a good composite blade for the track saw. It doesn't appear festool had two different blade angles. Isn't v the v only difference the tooth count. There doesn't appear to be a lot of selection out there.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for that info I canceled the order and I am headed to Rocklers to have another look at there blades.

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Californiadecks said:
Thanks BC, Tom, so who makes a good composite blade for the track saw. It doesn't appear festool had two different blade angles. Isn't v the v only difference the tooth count. There doesn't appear to be a lot of selection out there. Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk

Festools selection ain't great for blades. They have 90% of what I need but you may be better looking at another brand. Toms advice would be better than mine but blade tooth geometry is more important than tooth count for sure when cutting something other than wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Festools selection ain't great for blades. They have 90% of what I need but you may be better looking at another brand. Toms advice would be better than mine but blade tooth geometry is more important than tooth count for sure when cutting something other than wood.
That tenryu has the wrong tooth angle for composite doesn't it? From your description is mainly best for wood.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have used the 48 tooth solid surface blade.

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...id-surface-laminate-48-tooth-saw-blade-496309

If you don't want to go with a Festool blade, look for a blade with the same tooth geometry, it will improve the cut quality.

Tom
Tom I'm probably going to order this blade. Just to be clear is it the least amount of hook angle I'm looking for? If so this 496309 is hands down the least of all them, with a 4 degree hook. Thanks

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Tom I'm probably going to order this blade. Just to be clear is it the least amount of hook angle I'm looking for? If so this 496309 is hands down the least of all them, with a 4 degree hook. Thanks

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Festools blade selection is limited by location. We cannot get all the blades they can overseas.

Look at the way these teeth are ground (small drawing to the lower right if the blade picture). This is the 48 tooth wood blade;

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/track-saws/blades/fine-48-tooth-saw-blade-495377

Now go to the other link and check that grind. You'll see a very distinct difference.

Tooth geometry greatly affects dust collection also.

4° is as low as you want to go for a track saw.

Tom
 

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I bought and used the Festool composite blade, and noticed that it was maybe a little easier to move through some stock, but made no better cut than the 48-tooth fine cut. Now I just have a stock of 48-tooth blades. I keep them clean and swap them out when they need sharpening, and they cut perfectly clean and easily in everything - ply, melamine, aluminum, plastic, and hardibacker. Clean and sharp trumps hook angle every time, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bought and used the Festool composite blade, and noticed that it was maybe a little easier to move through some stock, but made no better cut than the 48-tooth fine cut. Now I just have a stock of 48-tooth blades. I keep them clean and swap them out when they need sharpening, and they cut perfectly clean and easily in everything - ply, melamine, aluminum, plastic, and hardibacker. Clean and sharp trumps hook angle every time, IMO.
Agreed, the thing with composite, is it gums up blades quickly, cleaning goes a long way in how long they last between sharpening.

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I'm wondering if this is the ticket. Says it's not only great for non ferrous but also hard plastics. http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...es/aluminum-plastic-56-tooth-saw-blade-496307

It's got a -5 degree negative tooth angle though

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Same tooth design triple chip, 8 more teeth. They went to the negative hook to reduce tearout in thinner material.

The proper tooth geometry is a must. Clean and sharp does no good if the proper blade geometry is not there. I can tell you from experience the cement board blade for the TS cuts better and lasts longer than a 48 tooth designed for wood.

All blades new should be clean and sharp. That you can maintain.

Tom
 

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i have noticed a better cut using the lower tooth count blade in cold weather...seem to have more chipping of the capstock with the pvc blade
 

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The triple chip should reduce the blade gumming up.

Another thing you can try, reduce the blade speed to 4-5. It should reduce the melt.

Tom
 
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