If you can make an exact 24” hole with a 24” auger you are a magician
They all wobble a bit which makes the hole bigger

 

And i thought sonotubes are slightly inconsistent in size, so they can nest a couple of nominal 24’s inside each other for shipping.

 

Aha! I was right ...

 

Even if it's a 25 inch tube, a new 24" auger should still work.
Depending on how much drilling you do though, the auger bits do wear down over time. I just recently had to put a new boring head on my 18", and discovered I had a 16 1/2" auger instead of 18". That one does several hundred holes a year though.

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Use Vaseline, just kidding, remember you are dealing with dirt , but why would you put the tube in the dirt, the dirt is the form, the tube is used above grade. spend some time talking with concrete guys that do caissons, poured in place piles go to the field you will get it than, as far as drilling, I always subbed that.

 

Often times we have to do full depth sonotubes to create a smooth surface the ground/frost can't grab and heave (engineer logic). We also usually need bigfoot bases.

Side note: I always thought of the 3 nesting tubes, the middle one was the true size, then +/- 1/2". Now I know lol

 

Out here putting the tube into the ground is unheard of. We bury slightly below the surface and throw shovel fulls of dirt to prevent boil-out during the pour.

I do understand the heave issue though in the great white north.


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631]

 

You should be fine. Since the footing is flared, you can shovel out a little bit in any direction, worst case. I have a 30” bit but rarely use it as the mini-ex is my preferred method.

 

I have seen sono tube and well casings placed full depth in a hole due to the sides continually sloughing off. Tube/casing placed then cleaned out different ways and finally vacuumed clean.

Royal PITA...

 

I use a 12” bit with a 10” tube. Hold the tube off the bottom of the hole 6”. Poor mans big foot base

 

Pouring some tomorrow, the HO did their own holes, their bobcat has an auger with the flare at the bottom for bells. I'm interested in seeing how well it works in person.

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Sonotubes are not intended to be placed below grade and they are not intended to be left in place.
They are a circular form made to be used above grade. How would you ever strip them if they are below grade?

When I do a big round pier like that, the bottom portion below grade is simply bank poured (no form), then the upper portion which is exposed to view is formed with the Sonotube which is held in place with wood form support work. When complete, you strip off the cardboard Sonotube form so you see the nice round concrete pier.

Just because some other guy buries them, doesn't make it right.

 

There is no need to strip the tube below grade. If you pour against the earth in freeze/thaw climates without the tube the pier will very likely heave with the frost. Missing this detail has put more than one contractor out of business in my area when the porches heaved and the doors/windows wouldn't work and the drywall cracked.

Just because you don't understand other climates doesn't mean someone else is doing it wrong.

 

Most people I know put it below grade. And we don't strip it below grade.
Dig the hole. Place the dirt against the tube keeping it plumb. 42" deep. Suppose to put it on a footing, or a big foot.

Commercial lamp poles can be aquired precast and slick. Big time saver for making schedule.