I always did double top plates. Overlapping and interlocking the plates just seems stronger to me.

 

Even though I do it in some circumstances and recognize it's stronger, I recognize the added strength doesn't get put to a structural use. It doesn't hurt, though.

 

I do double tops myself.

 

I usually like to look at things from more than one viewpoint. This is not one of those times

one plate only here folks.

For you guys who double, why not triple or quadruple them? That would be stronger too. You could also double or triple up all of the drywall. Then I would go with about ten coats of paint to make it last forever.

 

For you guys who double, why not triple or quadruple them?

I usually do this the fastest way for the circumstances. If the fastest way is to build the wall and stand it up, AND I need some extra clearance to be able to stand the wall, one top plate goes on the ceiling, one top plate is attached to the wall studs, so double top. If I need even more clearance, I'll put a bottom plate on the floor as well, but that's extremely rare. Doing more than that is just a waste of time, IMO.

 

Along the same line, how's everyone doing their stud corners?

 

I install 18 ¾” blocks at all intersections for two reasons, 1 it stops the wall from loosening up especially when there’s a door close to the intersection, 2 it’s a great way to start your layout :thumbsup:

 

I'm not following the 18 3/4" part, though I think I know generally what you mean.

 

Makes it easier when pulling layout, I can tell anyone of my guys, just butt the block & pull 16 & go

 

Double Plate.

Check with Mike Holmes...........except that he'll say screws are best:laughing::whistling

 

who is Mike Holmes?

 

I don’t use double pl8’s (that’s plate for you nubs) for a few reasons
1. Cost, for both labor & material
2. Shrinkage, ….(insert sarcasm here)
Any good framer will tell you that an 8’ wall is not 8’, it’s 8 1 ¼” but it starts out at 8’ 1 ½”-8’ 1 ⅝” depending on how much fluff and moisture is in your wood ….(insert double sarcasm here)
Over time your wood will shrink & settle, now that’s great when building a second floor but not when building a basement

 

2 Top Plates?

I don’t use double pl8’s (that’s plate for you nubs) for a few reasons

1.Cost, for both labor & material

2.Shrinkage, ….(insert sarcasm here)

Any good framer will tell you that an 8’ wall is not 8’, it’s 8 1 ¼” but it starts out at 8’ 1 ½”-8’ 1 ⅝” depending on how much fluff and moisture is in your wood ….(insert double sarcasm here)

Over time your wood will shrink & settle, now that’s great when building a second floor but not when building a basement

Any GOOD framer will tell you an 8' wall is actually

8'-1 ⅛".


Where are you getting your precut studs from? I've always seen 92 ⅝" for 8' precuts. Canada has some different precuts, but that's Canada.

And if you used KD studs shrinkage is almost non existent.

 

Shoot, you guys would love the basement wall details here in Colorado. Bottom plate of redwood or PT is glued and Ramset to the floor, Walls are built with single top plate, single bottom plate 1.5" shorter than the height between the bottom most plate (the redwood or PT) and the bottom of the joists. The walls are then stood and nailed to the ceiling with a 1.5" gap between the bottom wall plate and the rdwd or PT plate. Then 60D nails are driven trough the bottom plate into the plate on the floor allowing the slab to heave 1.5" due to expansive soils.

 

Pretty much the way alot of them are done here.

 

I'd only use double plates if it was structuraly required just wasting timber otherwise.

 

Why not triple plate? Three has to be better than two.

 

Where would you ever see that.....for what purpose......really.


Okay, so you can be funny on a blog site.......feel better now?:laughing:


If someone is all worked up over saving 25 LF of 2x4 going single Top Plate vs Double Plating - that's skimping in my mind. You wanna be that way, whatever. I don't care how others choose to do business. I'm not competing at the bottom where margins are razor tight..........I'm not wired that way. I got out of framing because I was not winning bids. Cheap is king to the uninformed builder and the customer doesn't care. I still build things, but to my standard....as if I will own it.

Again, I don't see the triple plate comment as anything other than "smarmy"...........yeah that fits.:thumbup:

 

So then what do you do if you're not mudding it?

 

drive some roofing nails or drywall screws into the bottom plate behind the base to kick it out

 

There are a couple of tricks for laying base flat. If that's what you mean.

 

An old Carpenter I know .. He's 83 now . Retired and still kicking around!

Would cut 1/2 strips of 8' ply then place them in the void between the floor and the board. Most trim guys I see these days use scrape pieces of trim to keep the base flush .

 

Why not build the entire wall out of plates. The MEP guys will love you so much they'll invite your family to Christmas.

 

I worked on a house once that was built exactly that way. Walls were solid 2x4 stacked flat all the way up.

Grain elevators are also built this way.

 

http://youtu.be/pNZuJ8wvcNE

 

I've had to stack plates. When some knucklehead cuts the wrong stud length. Not often though.

 

Who frames a basement with 25lf of wall?? Last one we did was just shy of 400'. And I don't consider that a lot

 

Holy crap guys, 108 posts in this thread and Mako answered the question in the first post after the OP.

Andy.

 

See what happens when you double plate something that doesn't need double plated?

Hahaha!

 

if all posts ended with the first correct answer this place would soon be dead.

a little spirited discussion, bunch of kidding around and flipping each other some good natured chit tempered with a little bs, keeps this place alive and interesting.

typing with one hand tonight.....

 

typing with one hand tonight.....

That explains why reading your post was so slow

Yeah....grain elevators out near Red Deer were 2x8s flat-stacked 100' high. I don't see too many grain elevators like those anymore.

I worked on one in Cadillac, SK after a truck hit a beam in the drive shed with its box up...still can't figure out why, no damage, that place is solid, you can't hurt it....other then the the fire hazard...grain dust

 

but I have a question. Do I use double top plates or single?

There it is. I don't know if he uses single or double, but I know what I do under different situations....

 

Chalk lines are used for straight walls....double plates for strength... A single plate is really all that is necessary being the wall will be securely fastened every 16-24" to ceiling joists. If you are concerned about a 2X4 bowing in 24" (the nails will fail before that), you may have other issues going on....chuckle.

Singles plates on non loads, or even could stack studs under joists if need be. Use 1/4" play for standing up the wall (non load walls). I hate working on a ladder (takes more time), so I always build on floor if possible. If there are irregularities in the floor, I'd rather just measure a few stud bays and cut those studs shorter and still build on floor.

I always snap lines on floors for walls longer than 6' or so (site the plates if concerned with bows), then plumb laser up for "perfect" walls. Snap lines on ceiling joists/ nailers if need be.

The only other reason I can think of for using a double plate would be the reason Warren brought up, you need the extra 1.5" in order to not use the next common stud or material length.

I always use treated bottom plates when in contact with concrete. I avoid steel channel, more labor time on fastening. Other than that, the rusting would be a concern, but structurally it is satisfactory.

 

Are ya'll still fussing about this??:laughing:

I don't care either way ..Just long as a DIY Didn't frame It !:thumbsup:

This Is typical to what I see in basements . Here. Like i'm sure elsewhere The ST bottom plate on concrete is code.