In your basement ,nothing will be load bearing adding some walls so a single top plate is fine.

 

Framing standards are basically similar everywhere, however if you are framing interior basement, you can go with single. Are you framing the ceiling as well? The double top plates are usually required when you are also installing ceiling or roof joists. They sit in the double top plate. Hope this was helpful. Even though I was your first reviewer, you may get differ opinions from other guys. Good luck !!

 

When framing a basement, I still use double top plates when the ceiling will also be drywalled since it gives more margin for error for the drywallers on the top screws. Otherwise I don't really see any reason since you are not locking walls together the way you would in other areas.

But I'd be interested to hear from a pro framer on their pros and cons.

Good thread.

 

I agree with the double top plates. Its hard to screw into 1.5" of lumber for the rockers. And I think overall it will make a straighter wall.

 

I agree with he double top plate and always use one.The op question was can he use a single top plate and I don't see any reason why he can't if he wanted to?

 

You're right... no reason he can't that I can see.

 

I would never use a double plate unless I was concerned about joining intersections. The drywaller is going to screw it wall studs & joists through out the basement & some how it's a problem at the top of a wall? Sorry but that's ridiculous.

 

I always double plate. <------- (period)


I can't imagine someone fretting over using too much wood. But that's just me. My mind doesn't work in the realm of how can I shave this project down to it's absolute bare minimums? I build to my own "over-code" standard for everything..........kinda my framing signature I guess.

 

The purpose of double plates is transfer of loads, many many times I see floor joists not line up with studs, by doubling the top plate, it provides adequate strength to transfer loading from the joists to the stud. The best place to witness this is roof trusses are generally 24" o.c. and walls are 16" o.c. If you were to line it all up for proper load transfer, single plate is fine and acceptable, we are all just accustomed to seeing double top plate.

On a side note when the floor joists and wall studs are not lined up...the plumbers and HVAC guys are pissed.

So for what you are doing it is a preference whether you do single or double plate as the walls are not load bearing, but merely partition walls, you could use drywall 25g steel studs of you wanted to.

 

Always single in non load bearing basement walls. The rockers will make do and screw to the studs if need be. A lot of basements get accoustical ceilings, so doubling all of the plates would be a total waste.

 

Always single in non load bearing basement walls. The rockers will make do and screw to the suds if need be. A lot of basements get accoustical ceilings, so doubling all of the plates would be a total waste.

That makes sense . I've rarely seen double plates in basement jobs.

 

I hate it when rockers screw to the bottom top plate-for a variety of reasons.

 

I can come up with 3 right off the top of my head.

 

Agreed; double plate is a waste of time and materials in that situation.

 

Funny how you just get used to things and consider it the "only way".

I never really considered what has been posted above.

Eyes are wide opened on this thread.:thumbsup:

 

I'm thinking one could be tape doesn't cover screw holes which means extra work?

 

That's one ! I would much prefer all perimeter screws buried beneath tape. And all screws around doors and windows buried behind trim and base ... It saves the eyes from pops . They happen ! I don't care who you are. They happen.

I don't want to turn this into a screw pop thread .. BUT! The less field screws.. the better off you are ! The better the finish period.

We glue . We glue the piss out of it! 1 tube every 5-6 boards Then after the glue sets a few days I pull all field screws on the walls .. Most times it's only 1 every other stud . The lids I leave .. I don't have the balls to pull those !! I just cross my fingers and pray!

I love shiny 90's Used them for many years . Now I use paper face metal beads . I hate em! But there are no fasteners involved ..so .. no pops ! Remember Boys ! We are building homes out of trees .

Trees!!! that are still half alive after the home owner moves in!!

It's just basic common sense ..

 

Single top plate is all you need. And don't make your studs tight. Leave at least 1/4" gap in either the stud and the top plate or between the top plate and the ceiling joist..

 

It's one of those great situations where doing it the easier way is actually more beneficial. :thumbup:

 

If the ceiling height permits... double plate and pre- cuts would be my preferred route.

 

I have framed many basements. Pre cuts have never worked no matter how many plates you use. Even in new construction, there will be variances in the stud size of at least 1/2" on average.

 

It all depends on how you're building. I deal with a lot of OLD framing. I may actually need to put in a top and bottom plate before building the wall to get clearance to be able to stand the wall (that much sag in the ceiling). Get the plates in position, build the wall with single top and bottom, stand, lift / slide in place and nail in. If I don't need the clearance, it's single top and bottom.

I don't want a loose or tight fit working alone with double top and bottom. Single top and bottom I tend to make tight.

 

I think that the only precuts you will get to work would be the ones you pre cut yourself before tossing them in your layout. If for some reason you got a basement that landed on a perfect foot (8/9/10) and had a perfectly flat floor; with a single bottom, double top and precuts you would wind up 1 1/8" high.

 

I've not met a basement slab that was level. That's good. Funny how they tend to slope towards drains and sump pumps.:jester:

Thanks concrete guys!

 

I've never even seen a basement let alone work on one.

 

I never had till I moved up here. Now I can't see not having one. Too handy.

 

Single top in a basement.

 

Personally I've never framed a basement where two or more top plates would come close to working out with pre cuts. They are also never the same dimension all the way around.

We frame with a single top and go 1/4" short.

 

Metal stud track with woods studs. Set upper and lower track, cut studs 1/4-1/2" short, set in place, screws or nails through the flange to secure studs. On outside walls PL to secure back edge of stud to track.

Tom

 

Since you always have really neat ideas, I'd love to hear the reasons behind this.

I'm guessing one for you is, working solo, that sounds much easier than standing a full wall. Don't know how metal track price compares to PT but maybe that is part of it.

Spill the details Tom.

 

I set out square lines in the floor then go round and put laser plumb down on joists and mark plumb lines then secure a single top and bottom plate then cut each stud to size. Floors are all over the place so they never the same length. Some only 1/8" out some 4" out from one side of room to the other.

 

i do the same

 

How many of you have ever had to build more or less floating basement walls? They do more and more of that around here because of ground heave in the floors.

 

That's how we do it here. It's code.

It seems like a pain but after this thread reminding me about uneven floor lengths and stick framing because of different stud lengths... I'm convinced again floating might actually be less work haha.

 

Single plate loose studs. Nothing to carry but may settle. Never metal.

 

When ever I see metal bottom plates here they are always rusted out and the stud screws not holding into anything. I think it's s issue with condensation building on the metal track because of being in contact with cold concrete close to exterior of house plus the dampness of some of the floors. The PT ones always look perfect with maybe a little bit of black staining from moister.