Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Starting my next project.

Great folks.

HO did a reno on this place when he bought it around 30 years ago. He is a great guy and did a bunch of work basically on his own.

Lessons from this one:

Spray foam is not structural or solid waterproofing material. "Cribbing" up chit will not "fix" damage from a prior massive termite infestation. New windows installed in a failing structure or without proper flashing/waterproofing will fail...miserably. Veneer stone is not literally "lick-n-stick". Wood siding is not ground contact rated, and horrific grading will destroy siding, sheathing, and what little structural integrity your previous HO built flooring system has.
Edit: And powder post beetles will not just....move along of their own accord.

Most of all. Professionals will not dump untold tens of thousands of your dollars into a glorious kitchen and master suite without fixing these things.

Again, really nice guy and his wife. He just patched it up. She rolled her eyes and worried about collapse and electrical fires. Now......I must "best case scenario" this place before I continue.

First phase (besides french drain)......cabin section. Lower course of logs are almost totally gone. It is surprising that the new windows kept opening for a couple years. Amazing how long this thing held up. The lower logs, with joists bearing on them, are just a hollow shell.
 

Attachments

·
Hack
Joined
·
3,013 Posts
Holy...
Lots of work to do there.
Be watching this one, looking forward to the progress.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thought I would update....

Nothing too exciting yet. Mostly fighting through a TON of existing problems, repairs, etc..., so I can get to the good stuff (new kit....Master Suite)

Cabin is rock solid now.

Did some bracing and surgery.....then input treated 6x6 posts at corners and load points at first log course.

Removed rest of first course (rotted and termited to oblivion) and input triple treated 2x8's.

Because I was still a tiny bit concerned about the load points on the old limestone foundation I dug and formed 6 pretty stout footings/piers and built an interior beam system to share the load.
The inspector thought I could have done without it.....I wasn't convinced.....I bet it will go another 200 now:whistling.

Spray foamed the whole thing. Closed cell.

New 5" white oak hardwood is in....covered up good to survive the coming onslaught.

Now I just have to figure out what I will do about ventilation.
I was thinking a vent on each opposite end?
Vapor Barrier and 57's will go down on the floor, but it gets pretty moist down there so I can't imagine I could get away with leaving it closed up.
Also need to come up with a way to fuse the 6mil to the closed cell. Would have liked to drop the plastic first, but it just didn't work out that way.

Is there any reason to NOT drop plastic? Just stone?
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
North Wall.....lots of rot, water intrusion.

We framed/braced it up. Rigid foam, then Tyvek.

White Oak B&B......to try and foil the carpenter bees.

Total PITA. Basically 6 different "planes" on that wall. S/S nails got quickly rejected by the oak.

I think it is crazy that they aren't doing the other/opposite side, but he wants to build an addition....large room, stone hearth, English Pub???? on the other side...someday???
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interior side of that North Wall needed something....upstairs and down.

We made up some random width beaded and ship lapped poplar.

HO is going to coat with ceiling white, wipe and remove stain (gunstock?), then poly. He did a small shelf like that years ago, it looks nice and will be a cool finish I think.

Ordered that Pella with 9 3/4" jambs before we were sure what was going to happen. WHo knew it would need like 12". Luckily I ordered two in that depth, so I can shear off the extra 3 from the other and extend it with good color match. Not ideal....but coprolites happen.

Plus...repainted ceiling downstairs.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Breezeway to old Spring House(?) barn(?)....now Guest Bedroom.

Tile...Laticrete heat mat over slab.

Beadpanel wainscot on walls. "Hidden" door to beneath stair access.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
New Pella's in the Cabin Section.

Just found this "PermaChink" stuff. Seems like a great line of log products.

Going to permachink the gaps between the logs and white oak window casings.
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Getting ready to tear this all out.

Floors and all.

Just finalizing my kitchen design. I think it might be a nice one. They are willing to let me go into my modern/rustic thing a bit and add some unique features.

Really excited to get started. I think I am even going to build all the cabs. Want to be in the shop for a few weeks.....add some cool custom stuff.

White beaded face frame, flat rail n stile. Soapstone tops. Quartersawn white oak "features" (tall "post" cabs flanking main run, countertop inserts....etc.). Stainless apron sink...appliances. Super cool island with log storage and stone/tile face.

Did I mention how jacked I was to get this kitchen going?

Thanks for putting up with the barage!:thumbup:
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: asevereid

·
Champion Thread Derailer
Joined
·
1,228 Posts
Great work there, BRG! Thanks for sharing!

Now I just have to figure out what I will do about ventilation.
I was thinking a vent on each opposite end?
I've done this with good results; however, in order to keep the moisture levels under control in the crawlspace, I will add a small, inline fan to the mix to slowly provide conditioned air to the space (of course the space must be sealed well, insulated [I typically use rigid foam, but this may not work in your case], and at least a 6mil vapor retarder on ground and up all walls/supporting columns while leaving about a 3 inch gap at top to allow for inspection of termite activity.


Also need to come up with a way to fuse the 6mil to the closed cell.
Have you tried duct mastic? It's what I typically use at the top of walls, etc, to hold the poly in place and seal it (all seams as well). Seems to stick to most anything, but I haven't tried it on closed cell.
 

·
Registered
Remodel
Joined
·
31,595 Posts
Seems like BRG just ate and ate and ate and ate, and spit it all over the page:laughing:

Personally, I'd power vent the crawl space, and only run it when the outside humidity is low. If it's warm and humid outside, and the crawlspace is cool, pulling outside air in (or natural ventilation) will just result in condensation in the crawl space - not really what you're looking for. I'd guessing with your location having it hot an humid outside and cool in the crawl space could be a pretty regular thing.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
jaydee said:
Nice work.

although I was staring at that tiled stair / hall and now have a headache,,
I was actually proud and pleased with that layout. Tough space......no walls near parallel, multiple varying angles, concrete stairs a mathematic mess.

After considering the options.....that was the result.

I assure you, it looks cool in person (at least that's what I tell myself). The beauty of delusion, the delusion of beauty?


Take an Advil and call your tile setter in the morning!!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,075 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No, I wasn't picking on it.

It does look neat and clean. I know how much time it takes to keep it
straight .

I was joking about the headache, Having a bad week.
I totally took it as good-natured ribbing.

I was only partially serious about the Advil......I commonly prescribe vodka for Bad Week Syndrome though.

Hope your week improves.:thumbsup:
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top