I have a Hitachi 16 ga.
Very happy with it. Never had any problems.

 

Whats your main uses for it, since it's a heavier brad and a bigger hole to fill if needed

 

I use 15 gauge for hanging solid core doors I prefer senco nailer
16 gauge straight nails for hanging hollow core doors, baseboards and the out side edge of window/ door casing I prefer paslode straight nailers I have been running these for years
18 gauge for the inside edge of window/ door casing I prefer bostich smart point nailer
21 gauge nailer for cabinet crown,toe kicks and shoe molding I prefer senco nailer
23 gauge pin nailer for pre finished cabinet moldings like scribe I prefer bostich or hitachi

 

The angled 15ga is easier for shooting tight spots, especially if you want to shoot at an angle. I'm in the habit of shooting crown with my 16ga straight and wishing I had brought the 15ga gun.

 

I prefer 15. Senco style. Stronger nails with way more holding power. Easier to sit if one doesn't drive in fully also.

I rip off a lot of trim installed with 16ga with my bare hands after cutting the caulk. 15ga takes some work to remove.

 

For doors, wainscot, and any heavier solid wood mouldings I use a 15g. For most base and crown I use a 16g. They hold well enough, the holes are small and the nails are cheaper.

Most of the guns I own are older Hitachi or Senco before they both forgot how to make good ones. I've tried some of the newer guns they offer and they're not even close in quality and they cost more.

 

I have the Hitachi 15 gauge. The mag is a cheap plastic pos. My first nt65 made it 1.5 yrs before the mag blew up and I was gentle with it.

 

Opinions, The Paslode 16G is 60 bucks more than a Hitachi, Makita, Bostitch, Ridgid or Bosch

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J...10_SY165_QL70&keywords=paslode+finish+nailer&dpPl=1&dpID=515XC819zzL&ref=plSrch
These are the one I use they are very much worth the money shoots a lot smaller hole then the average 16 gauge only a little Bigger then a 18 gauge and I've ran 10s of thousands of nails threw the 4 my crew run, the only problem I had was a small plastic piece broke on the trigger and nail gun depot warrantied it threw paslode at no cost both times

 

15 ga. Is a borderline framing gun...they are that good. It's just the ultimate grab on big trim.

 

Yea and Im a Chinese fighter pilot. Ive got a deck to start tuesday should I take the senco 15

 

Thanks Gentlemen. Ordered the Paslode :clap::clap::clap:

 

I love my angled 16 gauge paslode. It words so nice and feels right in my hands. I get sick of buying both nails and gas, but HD had 1000 2" nails and a gas cartridge marked down to 5.87 today, so I bought them all.

 

I use both, Hitachi all the way! The straight 16 for big baseboards and door trims, 15 if I need to toenail anything. 18 and 23 gauge for delicate stuff and stain grade.
I set my doors with trim screws and composite shims, period. I have had to tune up way to many doors guys gun in......
The 15 also gets used for exterior trim, although I pull the 16 out for some exterior trim too. Heavy duty exterior stuff gets siding nailed.

 

If someone is willing to pay you to hang interior doors with trim screws then by all means continue to do so. It is needlessly slow. A well shimmed door hung with 15g. nails with the center hinge screws swapped with longer screws to catch framing, and well nailed casing will not sag.

I will use screws on doors I'm hanging from scratch and using something other than an FJP jamb. These get hung with Wurth Jamo self adjusting screws for speed and ease more than strength. Pine is too soft and they can easily tear right out. The screws get hidden behind the stops.

 

I get paid to make things perfect for the long haul, usually on well padded fixed price contracts, not to install at production speeds, or to meet any sort of piece rate. So yes, screws and composite shims for me. :thumbsup:
I will look into those self adjusting screws though, seems like a neat idea.

 

I get paid to make things perfect for the long haul, usually on well padded fixed price contracts, not to install at production speeds, or to meet any sort of piece rate. So yes, screws and composite shims for me. :thumbsup:
I will look into those self adjusting screws though, seems like a neat idea.

I get paid to work to those same tolerances but at a production pace.

Almost every sagging door that I have ever tuned up suffered from one of two problems. Either the center screws were not changed on the hinges or shims were skipped, usually the one above the bottom hinge. A nailed jamb will remain perfect over the long haul if it is installed properly.

There is a common misconception that production work means sloppy and sub standard workmanship. It doesn't. Reveals need to be maintained, joints need to be tight, and the finished product must be both aesthetically pleasing and durable. Production is a mindset. You are constantly looking to cut out unnecessary footsteps and shave time off a job without compromising or improving quality. At some point in their career every carpenter would benefit from working in a production environment. They would see improvements both in efficiency and quality.

I actually like working piece rates (depending on the job). I've done large scale cabinet installs where I was making around $200 per hour while turning out tight work.

The Jamo screws are fun too use. If it feels like you are cheating then you are using them correctly.:thumbsup:

 

There is something like .013 difference.

 

I use my 15 ga Senco for base, crown, hanging doors, window casing on the outside edge. I have a 16 ga but never use it.

 

Same here. 18g brads on the inside edge of casings. 23g pins on crown coners.

 

Hey King, I'm just saying its really holds dude. Geez

 

I don't even own a 16 gauge. 15 gauge for doors, big trim, t&g 1x, exterior stuff, or if I'm using the 18 gauge, and hit a spot where I find I need a bit more holding power. 18 gauge is my go to choice for most trim. The 23 gauge comes out now and then, for very fine stuff, very small trim, fixing cracks (with glue), ect.

 

I have a 15G Makita and also a Senco but lately ive been wondering about a 16G angled gun from Paslode as well

 

Ok since we are talking door installation do you shim behind the hinges or not. I was taught to shim behind the hinge, but I watched a video buy gary katz and he says to never shim behind the hinges. What is everyone's preferred method?

 

You can probably turn up a few thread on the subject searching in the finish carpentry section. I know I've asked this question before.

I shim behind the hinges. I used to drive a long 3 inch screw through the center hole on the hinges for extra security, now I put a long screw behind each of the hinges when I plumb the hinge side. This way the painters aren't messing with my adjustments.

Some people don't like to shim behind the hinges so that future adjustments can be made. Usually adjustments are only going to need to be made in the event of settling or hinge sag from heavy weight/heavily used doors. To me both of these adjustments can be remedied on the actual door hinge by bending with a crecent wrench.

Gary knows what he's doing though, I'm sure he has very good reason for his methods.

 

Sorry not trying to de-rail this topic, it just started talking about hanging doors and I was wondering what trim carpenters are currently doing.

 

My door install problem goes something like this: I will install a pre-hung dead-on plumb, then get a sag a couple days later that affects the latching. Jamb is still plumb. I do shim and use a couple long screws, so I think it's mostly quality of the door and/or hinge. Anybody else?

Now I just hang them to accommodate that bit of eventual sag.

 

Regarding nailing doors in, I took it to mean that using screws allows you to fine tune and adjust it more easily if something is slightly off. I'm anal about door fit and use screws. It is easy to pull the casing to the point where they flex slightly, even with shims. I'm sure if you get everything perfect on the first go, nails will hold it fine.

 

Pretty sure the majority of finishing carpenters have hung doors with trim heads or 15/16ga. Then have found what works for them.

If I had to chose between 15/16 I would take a 16

 

18, 16, 15, whatever it takes...

 

Justin I like the trim screw technique for base. We normally will rip some 1/2" thick material to throw behind the base to keep the base plumb. It only works if the drywall doesn't go down to the floor. Your way takes care of when it does. Thanks