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Cutting Backward with a Skill Saw

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#25 ·
When I undercut p-lam doors, I'll clamp my cut off guide just above my mark and running my saw backwards make a very shallow cut( just enough to to score the p-lam). Then tap the guide down just pass the score and make a full depth forward cut .
 
#26 ·
Jordy3738 said:
The other day I was talking to someone about how I like to "scribe" cabinet parts when I am installing a kitchen. One method is cutting in a backward direction with my skill saw.

I do this only to mildly score the finish side so that it makes a clean cut.

I have also used this method for making cutouts for sinks in laminate tops. The same rule applies, I only score the material as I operate the skill saw in a backward direction.

DO NOT TRY THIS if you are not an accomplished finish carpenter.

I basically do this to keep from tearing out the finished material side of a cabinet or countertop because of the direction that the skill saw blade turns.

My friend told me I was crazy for doing this.

What do you guys think?


I
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Makes sense, you are not between wood so not as much friction to pop saw up, you are basicly nibbling away with back of blade. Just keep a strong arm
 
#27 ·
This is one of those things that you are comfortable doing or not. I don't think it matters how you get there as long as you don't take all day to do it and your method is reliable. If this works for you, great. But there are many ways to skin this cat.

Wouldn't it be cool if there was a hand held saw that had a scoring blade?

It might be tough to keep the two blades aligned on a slight curve but the idea may have some merit. It would catch the eye of a true tool junky anyway.
 
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#28 ·
no,,,

it does not make sense and is totally wrong,,,,,, you DO NOT CUT backwards with a CS.. I'll give you a hint,, it's very sharp ,, and you don't plug it in,,,,,,you do this FIRST,,, then re-clamp the temp fence , and cut FORWARD-:rolleyes:- the objective is to avoid tare out here- that is the question,,"how to avoid tare out,,,;)


Teddy,
 
#29 ·
Hey Wayne

PrestigeR&D said:
it does not make sense and is totally wrong,,,,,, you DO NOT CUT backwards with a CS.. I'll give you a hint,, it's very sharp ,, and you don't plug it in,,,,,,you do this FIRST,,, then re-clamp the temp fence , and cut FORWARD-:rolleyes:- the objective is to avoid tare out here- that is the question,,"how to avoid tare out,,,;)
Teddy,
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"tare" is tear. Get some more ice.

Gunther
 
#30 ·
I've seen and done this with a SCMS. As most of you know, you pull the saw out and then cut (or slide) in towards the fence. If you want to minimize tearout you skim the top of the blade across the piece at a depth of 1/8" or less as you pull the saw out then go to cutting depth and push in to complete the cut.

As long as the cut is shallow the blade can't grip nearly enough material to produce any kickback. My main concern with using a circular saw would be accuracy, especially since you're moving backwards.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Just to clear a few things up...

-The blade is installed in the skill saw properly.

-The guard is held up with the thumb while making the shallow "score" cut.

-The saw is tilted high and remains that way throughout the entire cut as the front of the base rests on the material.

-As previously mentioned the blade is always sharp.

It must be a South Florida cabinet installer thing.

We install tons of plastic laminate cupboards in our area, well we used to before the economic slowdown hit.

You just look at the Formica the wrong way and it has a tendency to chip. I've seen several installers use this technique in our area because it is a good method for cutting plastic laminate cabinet parts on the job.

Perhaps I'll make a video of the method someday.
 
#35 ·
Framers cut forward and backward when notching. The dangers far outweigh the few seconds gained.
Even a shallow score cut is enough to get you fired with a butt kicking off my job.
It can and will grab and come straight at you.
Backward saw blades, same BS.
If you're worried about chipping, score it with a utility knife first.​
 
#36 ·
I just don't understand the why part. If you're concerned about the finished side, cut from behind- it works for formica also. If you need a clean, finished cut on both sides you're already using a guide- simply score before cutting.

The only time I climb cut (except for perhaps 1/2" when plunging) is with a power feeder. I don't consider myself to be a power feeder.
 
#37 ·
skyhook said:
Framers cut forward and backward when notching. The dangers far outweigh the few seconds gained.​

Even a shallow score cut is enough to get you fired with a butt kicking off my job.
It can and will grab and come straight at you.
Backward saw blades, same BS.

If you're worried about chipping, score it with a utility knife first.​
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:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
#38 ·
Its dangerous, saws kick back.
I don't care who you are, or how great you are, you can get hurt like the rest of us.

IMHO, its just another way of cutting corners.

Use more time, and the proper steps, and/ or tools.

There has to be a safer way.

:001_unsure:
 
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