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bbgcarpentry

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
best way to frame low decks under 12 to 16 inches from ground,do you still dig for sono tubes do you build on on floating slabs,im interested in different ways to buid the lower deck frame.

Any input appreciated

John
 
#2 ·
couple different ways to do it like anything you do in construction. Myself when doing low level decks I pour sonotubes level for the beam/beams to set on. I compensate for a adjustable post base to be installed on top of the cement to raise the beam off the cement and lock it to the cement at the same time then use joist hangers into the beams so the joist and beams are at same level instead of joist setting on top of beam. Cant get much lower without digging into the ground with this method.
 
#4 ·
We usually try to recommend stamped concrete or brick pavers, on anything lower that 14" Typically the construction methods stay the same, It is just good to have at least a little air flow under the deck.

We have done a few floating decks on 4x4 sleepers at the homeowners request.:blink:
 
#5 ·
i have done floaters before too. i usually treat it like this.... dig out the dirt and do 3" of crush and run. compact and then set 4x6 sleepers spiked to the stone(usually 24" OC). then lay the joists directly on the sleepers. i will usually use 2x6 joists to keep it low and with the 4x6's spaces 24" its more then solid. i had built one like this on my own house so i can say it was very solid. plus it only took one day(2-3 guys, one back hoe, and dumptruck) to build with PT.

lets face it if they want a floating deck more then likely budget is part of the issue. that is the fastest way i have figured out how to do it. some municipalities will require a hold down.
 
#6 ·
Depending on grade, I've used a combo of Stone Mountain's and frankster's approach...
on this one, I've got 2x4 joists into a flush-mount beam at the high side, dropping down to 2x6 joists flush-mounted on one end and cantilevering over the outer perimeter.
I've got the beams strapped to concrete pier blocks (again, our frost line here is 12" so I use the precast blocks for ground level decks).

Mac

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#7 ·
How about joycey flushey bemey
and under 5" use eppie 2x4
this way you still have footings and the deck is solid
 
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#9 · (Edited)
I do a combo of Mac, frank, and stone.

Same deal over here frost line smosth line, 12'' 16'' want ever it takes.

I use solid creet cap blocks, pre cast by Dolice a local creet co. However I am a big on on cross ventalation so I flush frame with 2x6 and go with more foundation a 6' 7' span max joists on 16 of course. Almost never land the joists on a beam and I go for solid bearing that is 2x6 post under a 2x6 primary with a cleat on the joint.

Using a beam with joists on it cuts down on the air moving in and out a lot with a low leval thing like the Mac has going on. I retreat everything thats close to the ground now a days with the Termin-8 including the top of the foundation block,the plate, post and cleat two times.

The diging around Cow Town is fairly easy but if I do get into tree roots or the dammmabull red clay I use my Makita jack hammer with a sharp spade bit works great.
I always provide cross ventalation no matter what it takes, floor vents in the decking/ screen vents in the outside framing. This is a vastley over looked/important detail.

Forgot to mention I hilti a 2x6 pt plate to the block, toe nail the post to it, run a 2x6 cleat from the plate to the joists. J.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
BuiltByMAC said:
Depending on grade, I've used a combo of Stone Mountain's and frankster's approach...
on this one, I've got 2x4 joists into a flush-mount beam at the high side, dropping down to 2x6 joists flush-mounted on one end and cantilevering over the outer perimeter.
I've got the beams strapped to concrete pier blocks (again, our frost line here is 12" so I use the precast blocks for ground level decks).

Mac

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Hey Mac, What framing lumber is that? Doesn't look like the normal PT we have around here. (maybe its just me.)
 
#12 ·
Quinn said:
Hey Mac, What framing lumber is that? Doesn't look like the normal PT we have around here. (maybe its just me.)
Click to expand...
Western US gets hem/fir or doug. fir pressure treated wood.
You Eastern guys use SYP.

My preference would have been to keep all beams flush for additional ventilation. However, I needed the cantilever to get 8' out of 2x6 joists. It was a tradeoff on this project. I will open up the sides as best I can to get cross ventilation behind the beam. (and I knew someone was gonna call me on that too!)

Mac
 
#13 ·
BuiltByMAC said:
Western US gets hem/fir or doug. fir pressure treated wood.
You Eastern guys use SYP.

My preference would have been to keep all beams flush for additional ventilation. However, I needed the cantilever to get 8' out of 2x6 joists. It was a tradeoff on this project. I will open up the sides as best I can to get cross ventilation behind the beam. (and I knew someone was gonna call me on that too!)

Mac
Click to expand...

Mac,

What have you been up to lately? Do you have any interesting projects going on? I enjoy your project posts full of photos.

Curt
 
#15 ·
This is a lower deck that I am working on at my house. I finished the upper deck a few weeks ago. I realize that it is overkill, but I framed it with 2x8's & doubled the outer frame. I also blocked braced every two feet. One side of the deck is less than a foot off the ground while the other side is about two feet.
Most of the temporary bracing ( I will add cinder blocks under the deck) that you see in the middle of the joists are not even touching the ground now. It's amazing that since I completed the block bracing, the middle of the deck actually lifted up somewhat. Maybe I am beginning to understand bridge design a little?
Steve
 

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#20 · (Edited)
I keep my posts short, but I guess you didn't read that I was using temporary braces until I could put in the blocks. This is attached to a deck that I built last month. It's on a decline so there will never be any standing water, no clay in the soil & it is put together entirely with deck screws & the deck boards will be installed diagonally. It is going nowhere.
Steve

bbgcarpentry said:
what no beam underneath not good enough for me im afraid.4x4 just in the corners mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Click to expand...
 

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bbgcarpentry
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