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Built-in; proposed cabinet will block HVAC register - solutions?

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Panzer5

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Trying to find a way to move the air without involving an HVAC contractor. The register is a standard 4x10 located in an outside wall. The built-in will go against this wall, and the center cabinet would enclose the vent. The runs for the vent go under the floor through a crawl-space.

What I'm trying to decide is whether it is worth the time & effort to try to vent the HVAC through the cabinet. The best idea I can come up with is something like the drawing below - but I don't know if anyone makes grilles & etc. to do this. The individual cabinets are approx 32 in wide, & I figured on boxing in some kind of extension for the register to get it to vent out the front of the toeboard.

Other suggestions appreciated (even if the best solution is to just get an HVAC guy to move the vent).

TIA
 

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#3 ·
pretty standard stuff.

The best way is to cut a hole in the floor, into the existing duct, elbow the duct up into a box that sits under the cabinet (toe kick space) and projects through the cabinet opening. This is a better way to do it than using the cabinet box itself as a duct.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
defiantly have seen it done both ways. I recently had to cut open a floor and move the vent to where it was half under the face of the cab and half in front. I wanted to get as much air into the room so thats why I did it that way. The other way is to box out the vent with ply or other material and cut the slots in the front of the toe kick like you have drawn, but usually the slots go parallel with the floor. If you have ever seen that done it seems to do a great job of warming the cab and toe kick and not doing much for the room. If you have a F.F. and no access to the HVAC from below then the toe kick option will be your best but not as effective (in my opinion) solution to your problem. If you have to move the duct, just screw or mastic the joint and wrap it in the foil tape.

thats just my 2 cents
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks, folks. Nice to know my initial thought falls along standard lines.

I just hate working with sheet metal - so I didn't want to mess with it... but can see the merit in elbowing the duct into the 'box' where the toe kick is...
 
#9 ·
The register box is already in the wall, so what I do is just extend it to the front of the cabinet with an internally insulated sheet metal duct. If you want a longer grill as you show in the sketch, pick an available size, bring the grill and the measurements for the depth of the cabinet to a local sheet metal shop and have them fabricate a transition for you. Pretty basic for a sheet metal mechanic, should not cost a bunch. I have them bend a one inch flange to fit against the wall at the existing register box, so I can bed it in mastic and run a couple of screws into the wall, then tape to wall and coat with mastic. Although the availability is limited to the more common sizes and you loose the ability to control air flow, I like to use a wood grill in these applications and paint to match cabinet.
 
#10 ·
Abandoned the wall vent and run the 6in round thru the floor under the cabinet. Tab the top to create a flange and attach it to the floor. Set the cabinet with the vent pre-installed. The air you blow under the box comes right out the vent without noticeable lose of pressure. And it's easier to set the cabinet with out odstructions.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Easier isn't always better! If you did it the way you described you'd better make sure the floor and even the walls are sealed up tight. Or you'll be blowing crap from the crawl space and extra dust that will form when not in use. Along with alittle loss of heat.

Usually just use same piping that's there flexible or solid. Coming out floor then elbow and short pipe to toekick. But if you want easy then you could always put in floor outside cab (not ideal, but idea). Or move slightly out of way and out floor, depends what layout.

That italics and slight size hurts these weak eyes. Especially on my phone.
 
#12 ·
they make a duct board that is usually used for return air. just make a quick channel for the air to move to the toe kick, then get a skinny wall mount grill. thats the most effective way i have found yet, moves all the air out from under the cabinet, doesnt heat the bottom of the cabinet up, and is pretty low $. biggest reason is no sheetmetal (read: no cut hands, which means no bandaids, which means no running out to the drugstore with paper towel taped to my hand with painters tape), or no paying a tin knocker for one piece of duct.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
chris klee said:
they make a duct board that is usually used for return air. just make a quick channel for the air to move to the toe kick, then get a skinny wall mount grill. thats the most effective way i have found yet, moves all the air out from under the cabinet, doesnt heat the bottom of the cabinet up, and is pretty low $. biggest reason is no sheetmetal (read: no cut hands, which means no bandaids, which means no running out to the drugstore with paper towel taped to my hand with painters tape), or no paying a tin knocker for one piece of duct.
Click to expand...

This sounds interesting; like you I hate working with sheet metal. Have to look into this. Tango.
 
#17 ·
chris klee said:
they make a duct board that is usually used for return air. just make a quick channel for the air to move to the toe kick, then get a skinny wall mount grill. thats the most effective way i have found yet, moves all the air out from under the cabinet, doesnt heat the bottom of the cabinet up, and is pretty low $. biggest reason is no sheetmetal (read: no cut hands, which means no bandaids, which means no running out to the drugstore with paper towel taped to my hand with painters tape), or no paying a tin knocker for one piece of duct.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
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