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Re-roofing a geodesic dome..

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a client with a 35ft. diameter dome cabin which is in dire need of a new roof. I am considering a complete layer of ice and water shield in leiu of tar paper.Are 25 year asphalt shingles more suitable for conforming to the shape than 30 or 40 yr.? Should I look at other roofing materials?
I would appreciate any input from anyone with experience on these structures. Thanks
 
#2 ·
I have only done two round/dome roofs, one with metal and one with 30 yr tamko heritage, I doubt a 25 yr version would make it any easier.

There a pain in the butt no matter what you use but if you plan each step a head of time and plan on taking quite a bit more time than a normal re-roof they look good once there complete.
 
#3 ·
I've never done one, but have seen several done and have studied the processes. Only one I've seen looked good. The triangles pointing up were shingled 1st with the shingles running across the "hips" between the triangles. The downward pointing triangles are then shingled with a clean cut at the "hips". Architectural shingles work best for this.

Have fun.
 
#4 ·
You should start from the bottom and go up since the custom made metal flashign you will need for every triangle edge.

These are not easy, and be sure you charge sufficiently.
 
#6 ·
Tinner, it is just my belief that the geodesic dome should be roofed with metal flashing over the triangle edges. That's just how I would do it personally.
 
#7 ·
OK. Gotcha. I had thought so too.
When we did the one pictured, the shingle manufacturer said not too. They recommended the dutch lap method. We crossed the hip 3", then recrossed it 3" giving a 6" lap.
I went past it a few months back and it still looked good. No missing shingles. No patches.
After doing it, I I believe that adding metal could add unnecessary complications.
 
#9 ·
Reading from one dome manufactures site, they recommend shingling the pointing up triangles first and then lapping the pointing down triangles 6" over the ridge. I'm not sure if I like that look or not. If you use the 3" double-lap method, do you have any trouble getting that 3" lap to lay flat? Seems like the corner may want to lift somewhat.
 
#12 ·
I would not use a 3-tab shingle for that project: We have completed 3 of these projects and it is very important that you contact the manufacturer of the building if it a pre-built or if it is a kit-set you need to speak with the architect or company selling the plans: they have seen all the possible problems and will advise you as to whether your plans will work or not. They typically can refer you to a couple other contractors who install their designs who may or may not be helpful if you give them a phone call. We used Grace on the entire thing, but it is important to do your seams properly. The other thing is to check for venting before you just decide to Grace the entire thing (again, talk to the design team) before you cause problems.

Personally, I don't think that these domes are worth the time, energy and money to build them but to each their own I suppose. Good luck!
 
#13 ·
roofedright said:
I would not use a 3-tab shingle for that project: We have completed 3 of these projects and it is very important that you contact the manufacturer of the building if it a pre-built or if it is a kit-set you need to speak with the architect or company selling the plans: they have seen all the possible problems and will advise you as to whether your plans will work or not. They typically can refer you to a couple other contractors who install their designs who may or may not be helpful if you give them a phone call. We used Grace on the entire thing, but it is important to do your seams properly. The other thing is to check for venting before you just decide to Grace the entire thing (again, talk to the design team) before you cause problems.

Personally, I don't think that these domes are worth the time, energy and money to build them but to each their own I suppose. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Why use I&W on them like that? It's just siding until you get get to the 6/12 areas. I don't know of anybody using I&W under their siding. And mansard roofs are siding jobs. Not roofing jobs. They're facades.
 
#14 ·
Mansard compared to domes

A typical mansard is only a facade or basically a siding application: I think I see a large difference in a dome structure because the roofing system leads seamlessly into a siding application with multiple angles, cuts and folds. The ice and water was a spec for the design of the building we were roofing, but I can see why it valuable in some areas in particular. Repairs on a dome roof can be very difficult to complete and ice and water is one more preventative solution to a costly/impossible repair. Like I said, it really depends on who designed the thing more than what any one of us might think. If the design works, don't fix it!
 
#17 ·
peterjames said:
Roofing is one part of a construction job that requires due diligence when determining the amount of material necessary. Basically, roofing comes in two forms (metal and shingles). The metal comes in sheets that are 42 inches wide by 10 feet long, and asphalt shingles come in bundles of 26. The task of estimating is, perhaps, as crucial to the job as the application of the material. You need to choose metal sheets or asphalt shingles.
Click to expand...

What about all the other available materials? Do they count?
 
#18 ·
very expensive with metal and ridiculous in shingles. single ply would be the most cost effective long lasting and best looking material I would think. not really sure on Aarons material because its not well known in my territory, but it sounds like a good method as well.
 
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