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BuildersII

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
We got called out to look at a kitchen tile floor that had some grout cracking issues. When we arrived, we found that when we lifted a tile, the back side was completely (I'm talking from the factory) clean. Also 3-4 others around it lifted up as well, and when we lifted those, it just kept coming up. Each tile was the same, clean on the backside.

The previous job was performed three years ago by a pretty well known company here in town with big showrooms all around, but they refuse to warranty their work because the home changed hands in those three years. We're assuming that they let the thinset dry too much between setting it on the floor and setting the tile on the thinset. The new homeowner wants to do the floor over, so I recommended the following:

1. Pull all tile and reuse it (since it's all coming up clean, and is still available - we figured 20% breakage to be safe since it's returnable anyways)
2. Knock down any high points with a cold chisel.
3. Lay down 1/4" hardibacker over old thinset, using fresh thinset to fill in any low spots and attach it with screws to give a solid substrate.
4. Lay new tile.

Pros: it insures that the work is done on a good substrate, and also slightly stiffens the already soft floor.
Cons: it raises their current floor level by 1/2 inch or so, so we have to add some schluter strip transitions.

Now they're a bit worried about the price (who isn't these days...:rolleyes:), and were wondering if I could just lay new thinset over the old and avoid the middle step. My problem with that is that I don't want to be responsible for doing that. God knows why the old thinset didn't hold, but it doesn't seem like a good base to be attaching to.

Now in my mind, I think it might work, but something in my gut keeps telling me that if I don't feel comfortable warrantying something, I just shouldn't do it.

Thoughts?
 
Are these porcelain tiles?

While it is certainly possible the thinset had skimmed before they set the tiles, another possibility is they used an unmodified thinset, which, in theory, will work on CBU, however, if the CBU is really dry and not pre-moistened, it will still take a lot of moisture out of the mortar.
 
How about using bonding agent? I am not a tile expert but using bonding agent mix with mud ensures bonding with the slab etc.But looks like you are not comfortable with the existing thinset/subfloor. I would not do if I am not confident. My2cents,tile experts should know better.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I believe they're plain ceramic, not porcelain, but we didn't ask since installation of both costs approximately the same. We'll obviously be using modified thinset if they're porcelain.

I've never come across such a complete failure before. I've seen a few tiles cracked before because they didn't get even coverage with thinset, and I've see grout lines go because they didn't stiffen up a soft floor. This however is an epic failure. The way they laid them was kind of odd as well, almost like someone who didn't know what they were doing because they'd been doing it wrong for a long time. There was a complete grid line drawn on the floor and in each square they buttered the area, not the tile. By buttering the area, I mean they stayed away from the grout lines with the thinset, but I don't understand why they wouldn't just butter the tile then... It's like they mixed the thinset too dry, or let it dry, or applied zero pressure when setting the tile down.

Either way, I think I'm going to insist on doing it right. I mean, sure, thinset should stick to old thinset just fine, but I'm going to have a hell of a time getting my tile to come out level. At this point, they can either cheap out and hire a hack, or they can have it done right.
 
Either way, I think I'm going to insist on doing it right. I mean, sure, thinset should stick to old thinset just fine, but I'm going to have a hell of a time getting my tile to come out level. At this point, they can either cheap out and hire a hack, or they can have it done right.
You already knew the answer!

I would hesitate going over the old thinset for the simple reason that you have no idea what was used or if it was properly mixed. What are the chances it will fail???????

If you have a hard time removing the old stuff, get off what you can and consider using an SLC over the remaining. This way, you'll have a level starting point.
 
New will bond to old all day long. But.

Have you performed a bounce test? Have your helper bounce on the floor while you watch, to check for structural deflection, which creates lateral stress and can cause shear failure, which can look exactly like what you describe. 90 out of 100, you are correct. But there is also the deflection/tenting factor to consider, which can leave a well-bonded tile clean as a whistle and loose as a kindergardener's front tooth.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well if it's sheer forces, then it seems Ditra would be the better solution. The floor is definitely soft. I thought about bringing in a floor stone grinder, but even with a vacuum and negative air, that's an ass-ton of dust to deal with.

I've never seen a vacuum grinder like that before, is it a reasonably fast process? Is that just a hood attachment to a standard grinder? Also do those kinds of blades last for a good long time?
 
I don't think Angus or I meant to be condescending. :whistling but it is the BEST tool for the issue you face:thumbsup:. It is one of those tools that you wont use often:no: but when you need it it quickly pays for it sel;)f. I rent my Hilti to several tile buddies for $45 a day. They are thrilled that they have a solution for removing thinset, bumps, paint.... and I have have made over $400 after paying for the tool on their rentals:thumbup:.
Craig
Learning to overuse smilies in my posts:laughing:
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I wasn't taking it as condescending. Just the cost of the tool being high sounds like it might not be cost effective for me to take this on like that. Also dust control is always such a pain when you start raising that much, even with a vacuum on it. I figure skimming with a little thinset ought to keep low points from being a problem.
 
Bad thinset

I also agree to remove the old stuff. I've taken it out with a hand held air scraper before. It was a cheep Harbor freight unit that cost maybe $10.00 It blows the stuff to smitherines. I also have a full size air scraper that would take it off like icing off a cake. I'm too cheep to buy the nice grinder like the other posts, but you could probably rent one.

Here is my thought process for this:
Invoice it! Get paid more. Lasts better. get paid more, lower risk of failure, get paid more, establishes credability for excellence, get paid more

I get 7-10/ft to get rid of crap like this plus I get another 5 per ft to put the new backer down. I invoice a dump trip $159 to get rid of debris and charge for ALL materials including bit, blades, plastic, dust masks.etc This is going to be dusty put up plastic over EVERYTHING. Block off the next room etc

All your tile won't come off so easy they guy had to start someplace with fresh thinset
 
Sorry I'm a little late to the party, but I agree with Kyras. If you have to put anything at all over that old thinset other than NEW thinset, you need to take it down to the original substrate and start it from scratch. I'd hit it with the grinder, just to knock down all the highs, as in where thinset purged up between the old tiles (man that thing is a lifesaver for me-- I've got the 7" version), skim it, and then set the tile. This of course assuming that the old thinset is stuck well, and not the cause for the tile popping. I have a feeling it might've been caused by perimeter pressure-- the same stuff that usually causes tenting-- sometimes there's not enough to make it tent, but there IS enough to pop it loose, and usually, when it does, the tile comes clean as a whistle.
 
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