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Chimney Rebuild on Slate Roof

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Burns-Built

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I need the advice of you slate roofers.

I am not a slate roofer by any means i haven't touched slate, asphalt and metal are my forte's but a potential customer has this chimney that needs rebuilt. The town was built in the 1800 or 1900's and this roof is the original i believe, don't quote me on that though.

Anyhow it looks to be about a 9/12 slope but my problem is jacking the roof. The chimney is a wreck, it doesn't function but she wants to rebuild it because she thinks it will look odd without one, and i agree. The pic with only one plane is about 9' from the side of the house to center of the ridge. My plan is to build scaffold in neighbors driveway, (with his consent) and plank to the ridge. It would great to be able to jack the roof below the chimney so when i, or a slate roofer fill it back in we will have a solid plank to work on.

I would like to use copper to flash it and don't doubt with a little research and brain picking from you pros i can do it, but if a slater wants to come up and work with me on it then great. Its North of Pittsburgh.

Or would lead be a better choice.

The sum of it, I got a chimney on a slate roof to rebuild and i can't get to it, suggestions.?

These pics are from my boulder so take it easyy....
 

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#3 ·
I bid one that looked a lot like that with a slate roof. I put more in the bid to fix the slate than to repair the chimney.:w00t:

I second the bridge and the copper.:thumbsup: Carpet remnants are great for protecting the roof.

Articulating basket lift might work, but you have some tight quarters, could end up being an expensive lawn ornament.
 
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#4 ·
I go to josephjenkins.com when I need slate roofing stuff, they are in Grove City, PA and may be of some help....I would go for a lead-coated through pan, with a nice rebuild, that'll be good for 200 more years...I rebuild those with "straddlers" and ladder hooks so there are no roof penetrations, but it looks like a slater could be of some help to you here...umm....are they keeping the antenna?
 
#6 ·
Burns-Built said:
I need the advice of you slate roofers.

I am not a slate roofer by any means i haven't touched slate, asphalt and metal are my forte's but a potential customer has this chimney that needs rebuilt. The town was built in the 1800 or 1900's and this roof is the original i believe, don't quote me on that though.

Anyhow it looks to be about a 9/12 slope but my problem is jacking the roof. The chimney is a wreck, it doesn't function but she wants to rebuild it because she thinks it will look odd without one, and i agree. The pic with only one plane is about 9' from the side of the house to center of the ridge. My plan is to build scaffold in neighbors driveway, (with his consent) and plank to the ridge. It would great to be able to jack the roof below the chimney so when i, or a slate roofer fill it back in we will have a solid plank to work on.

I would like to use copper to flash it and don't doubt with a little research and brain picking from you pros i can do it, but if a slater wants to come up and work with me on it then great. Its North of Pittsburgh.

Or would lead be a better choice.

The sum of it, I got a chimney on a slate roof to rebuild and i can't get to it, suggestions.?

These pics are from my boulder so take it easyy....
Click to expand...
How old is that slate? Going from your posted location, I'm guessing it's PA slate which is not as long lasting as VT slate. It's likely you're gonna break some if you stage on top of it and you also need to remove the slate touching the chimney to install new step flashings, anyway.

I'll second Grumpy's motion to remove the slate around the chimney and build good comfortable and safe staging attached to the framing. Do a good dry-in with I&WS before building the staging. This will also give you a chance to replace any rotten roof sheathing which is likely around the chimney.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Rockmonster said:
I go to josephjenkins.com when I need slate roofing stuff, they are in Grove City, PA and may be of some help....I would go for a lead-coated through pan, with a nice rebuild, that'll be good for 200 more years...I rebuild those with "straddlers" and ladder hooks so there are no roof penetrations, but it looks like a slater could be of some help to you here...umm....are they keeping the antenna?
Click to expand...
No they aren't keeping the antenna :thumbup: That thing is herendous but they just don't have anyone to get up there and take it down, until now :whistling

I figured i would need to remove some slate around the chimney but i didn't plan on removing a lot of slate. I have some time to think about it because out in Pitt they now have close to 2' of snow so once it warms up I'll begin to tackle it. I got the call from her yesterday she wants to do it, of course i haven't bid it yet, but every mason she talks to says if she can get a roofer to set it up for them they will do it. But she can't find a roofer. I'll pry get a roofer to help me get set up then build it and let him finish. I have lots of time to mull it over so we shall see. Ill certainly post pics when the time comes.

Maybe an articulating boom lift? Your scaffold idea sounds OK. OSHA anywhere around? Osha shouldn't bother me but you never know i guess.
 
#12 ·
I rebuild smaller chimneys like yours from time to time.
The height of the one shown is more then you could do from just standing, therefore is going to require more room for some kind of staging. How roofing is removed will depend on how much room your staging will use. Plywood could be used for a protectant as well, but i feel should be used solely without removing roofing.
Often times the trouble with doing chimneys is safely bring the old stuff down and then bringing up the new materials.
Besides the counterflashing being put in while it is being built, a flashing that is put on the last course of brick before the cap is a good idea. The heat from the clay flues cause the caps to often crack.
Caps are probably one of the leading causes of early brick deterioartion.
Lead sheet (2.5 lb or 4 lb )for the counterflashings, lead coated copper ( 16 oz.) for the chimney cap flashing.
One thing I tried was wrapping the flue with rope before I poured the cap.
The rope I read acts as an expansion joint.

Rebuilding chimneys is interesting work. Good luck with the project.
 
#13 ·
red_cedar said:
I rebuild smaller chimneys like yours from time to time.
The height of the one shown is more then you could do from just standing, therefore is going to require more room for some kind of staging. How roofing is removed will depend on how much room your staging will use. Plywood could be used for a protectant as well, but i feel should be used solely without removing roofing.
Often times the trouble with doing chimneys is safely bring the old stuff down and then bringing up the new materials.
Besides the counterflashing being put in while it is being built, a flashing that is put on the last course of brick before the cap is a good idea. The heat from the clay flues cause the caps to often crack.
Caps are probably one of the leading causes of early brick deterioartion.
Lead sheet (2.5 lb or 4 lb )for the counterflashings, lead coated copper ( 16 oz.) for the chimney cap flashing.
One thing I tried was wrapping the flue with rope before I poured the cap.
The rope I read acts as an expansion joint.

Rebuilding chimneys is interesting work. Good luck with the project.
Click to expand...

how did you seal the rope?...lm assumeing you brought your flue up...wraped it with rope then poured cap...am just curious how you finished that?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Cap and Expansion

Here is a pic of one i just formed up and have yet to pour cuz i'm waiting on the local concrete plant to throw me some extra off of a truck. I use sill seal as an expansion around the liner then just cut it off at the top of the cap and seal with NP1 .

My "flashing" is 1/8" thick rubber cut and stretched over the liners. Then i cut it off just short of the edge of the brick, so WHEN the cap cracks (because thats what concrete will do eventually) The water will hit that rubber and weep out to the ouside of the brick. The liners can expand if they need to but shouldn't get that warm in this fireplace set up.

Most chimney deterioration is coming from water getting into the chimney through the cap. The cap fails the bricks are saturated with water, freeze, crack, and effloresce. I hate to rely on the NP1 to seal the liner off but right now without using led that is the best solution i have seen. http://justlead.co.uk/dpc-chimney-tray.html

This is a lead tray that you put in between liners then the next liner sits on top of the lead so any condensation running down the liner will weep out. Pretty cool system most of you guys may have seen these but i have never used one. I will though!
 
#17 · (Edited)
Looks bullet proof to me. I know what you mean about the caulk though.
All that thought,matertial and work only to rely on a sealant. Also looks like you changed the look some from the original. no perimeter brick used on the cap this time. ( I read now where its not the same chimney. )

Never have put a metal or rubber sheet the entire precap surface, have only put it on the brick, hemmed on both sides with soldered corners. My flashing would only cover the holes in the brick. I always wanted some brick out to have the cap bond to. But your way for sure makes it waterproof.

Post pics when your done.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I thought about the cap bonding to the brick but it is poured around the liner's so its not going anywhere. If i were to use a lead pan per say in place of the rubber how would i seal it around the liners? I don't know of any adverse effects of the concrete and rubber touching but don't know enough about the properties to say for sure, it is just the best solution i have to date. I know the properties of morter will eat away at aluminum coil, but i have read that the paint supposedly slows/eliminates the deterioration of it. I still believe lead/copper would be the best choice due to being able to solder the corners and such.
 
#20 ·
For a slate roofer near Pittsburgh, PA try Ron at Slateworks in Evans City

As for the problem chimney wash, I have capped the wash in lead or copper. The liners were already installed flush with the wash.

Not being a mason, my question is; why do the liners always stick up above the chimney wash?

This pic is of a copper capped wash. The liner is flush with the wash and the copper drops inside;

http://www.chimneyflashing.info/Copper-Chimney-Wash-Cap-Flashing.html

And a chimney wash capped with lead.

Image
 
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