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Freestanding deck swaying

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freestanding lateral support swaying
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2010G37x

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,



I am in the middle of building a 16x37 freestanding deck.

2x10 floor joists on 3ply 2x12 beams.

The floor joists are spanning about 12' + 2' cantilever over the beams each side (total length of floor joist is 16' with the rim joists).



Plywood sheathing (not installed yet) or the blocking above the beams and mid span.

Helical pile for foundation.(The helical pile specifically said they only want a rigid frame on it.



The deck right now is framed without blocking yet or the plywood sheathing.



(A duradek type product will go into of the plywood).



I have knee braces in all directions. But all at 45 degrees.



See pictures.



The sway right now without any blocking and the plywood is a lot!



I am not sure if the plywood and blocking will help.



Not sure where else to put more bracing.



I might try 1 X brace the short distance kn the far end (standing perpendicular to the beam).



I could add more 45 knee braces that are lower on the far right and far left parallel to the beam at the front.

And in the middle bay at the back near the house.



Would the plywood actually help? And the blocking actually help?
 

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#7 ·
Another thing. The construction screws in the braces are strong but unless the manufacturer has a engineered data sheet with a suggested code alternative. You'll need through bolting. At least here.

I would go on the website if the screw manufacturer and look at code compliance sheets. I doubt you'll find anything as sway bracing isn't a regular need but a phone call then email a picture to technical support and they get you something.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Have you considered connecting to the building at the corners? Doubt the plywood will do much- you're experiencing flex in the posts below the bracing and at the footers- as Pounder referenced.

Edit: I don't have experience with helical piles. But each footer connection looks like a wicked hinge point, I think you have to connect to the house. Consult an engineer.
 
#12 ·
What does your supervisor say about this?

At least in my area, this work would require a permit, which would require a set of plans with details based on either DCA-6 and/or the California Residential Code, or, if it was outside the purview of prescriptive Codes, an engineers stamp.

Also, from looking at the pictures closely, some of the work looks a little sloppy. What’s with the scrap of wood in the post cap? 😳

The center knee braces appear to barely be attached to the joists at the top.

And nailed knee braces are barely better than worthless. Even 8” and 10” structural screws are not much better. They need to be through-bolted, and there’s a way to do even that properly.
 
#15 ·
META said:
Connect that beast to the house wall top plates.

IMO, nothing you do will stop sway short of unsightly diagonals from beams to helical piles connections.

If you had had continuous rim on house, the deck sheething would have done a lot.
Click to expand...
What I suggested upthread.

Why the freestanding rig? This was prime for a ledger.
 
#18 ·
DenverCountryBoy said:
3 ply beams = 4.5"

6x6 posts = 5.5"

5/4" boards to take up the difference, but he better have used the 2-1/2" ticos or else they aren't doing anything.
Click to expand...
O know that’s why he did that, but IIRC you can’t do that on deck beams.

Now I’m gonna have to go look it up.
 
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deckman22
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