Stone wall going in place where opening used to be. Looking for opinions on trim around. Should stone be run up right beside window like show with lintel right overtop and stone or pour in place concrete still right underneath. Or would it be better to be trimmed out with cedar and then run stone up to that? Also a question about the other picture with existing window for possible future replacement I am assuming best way to deal with this replacement is match window size on interior and then re trim outside once installed? Any tips tricks or info greatly appreciated. Thanks
Stone wall window trim details
Fluke216
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Stone wall going in place where opening used to be. Looking for opinions on trim around. Should stone be run up right beside window like show with lintel right overtop and stone or pour in place concrete still right underneath. Or would it be better to be trimmed out with cedar and then run stone up to that? Also a question about the other picture with existing window for possible future replacement I am assuming best way to deal with this replacement is match window size on interior and then re trim outside once installed? Any tips tricks or info greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Most new builds I work the masons run the stone right up to the windows. No trim, I would hate to ever have to replace the windows though.
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Cut the nailing flange, replace with non-flanged window.
House I am residing right now with steel siding has old Andersen Prema -shields, am trimming them out so can be replaced down the road
Do you see a mortar joint right against edge of window or something like sill seal and a caulk joint to keep mortar from direct contact with side of window.
Pretty much just a mortar joint.
Mortar touching wood =WRONG
Modern masonry veneers should have , Veneer, cavity, rainscreen/ drainage/ dampproofiing, sheathing, frame and insulation.
maybe a layer of insulation inside of air cavity, or over sheathing/ under rainscreen........
window apron needs to dump into sill flashing.......with weeps and or drain holes. or run metal flashing over top of sill to drip edge
The detail at head of masonry story is HORRIBLE.
The older window is ROTTED away from poor installation,
Couldn't you find a mason to match somewhat the pattern of the old stone work a little closer? DYI?
I'd install a tin drip edge that went under second story siding rainscreen/ "Red Line" and kicked out a few inches BELOW
'and away from top of Rock Story.
Check out MII or any other masonry code site for details that actually work for decades.
Quality window makers have accessories that allow replacement of windows without removing any masonry.....think metal brick mold.
Veneer on wood frames should NEVER actually touch the window, as the wood walls grow and shrink every year, eventually the window will hang on the the masonry, leading to many issues.
I'll use a fiberglass rod to form a void for caulk, and never lay the lintel tight to the window head....
Modern masonry veneers should have , Veneer, cavity, rainscreen/ drainage/ dampproofiing, sheathing, frame and insulation.
maybe a layer of insulation inside of air cavity, or over sheathing/ under rainscreen........
window apron needs to dump into sill flashing.......with weeps and or drain holes. or run metal flashing over top of sill to drip edge
The detail at head of masonry story is HORRIBLE.
The older window is ROTTED away from poor installation,
Couldn't you find a mason to match somewhat the pattern of the old stone work a little closer? DYI?
I'd install a tin drip edge that went under second story siding rainscreen/ "Red Line" and kicked out a few inches BELOW
'and away from top of Rock Story.
Check out MII or any other masonry code site for details that actually work for decades.
Quality window makers have accessories that allow replacement of windows without removing any masonry.....think metal brick mold.
Veneer on wood frames should NEVER actually touch the window, as the wood walls grow and shrink every year, eventually the window will hang on the the masonry, leading to many issues.
I'll use a fiberglass rod to form a void for caulk, and never lay the lintel tight to the window head....
Yes there is alot of wrong stuff here. This is not really masonry veneer its building stone from the guys property that's what was used on the original parts. The joints are raked back at the moment so it should look better once its pointed up. It would of looked better to tear the pieces out or tooth sides out and mesh it in with this but yea. So its a stud wall plywood vapor barrier insulation and a finger gap behind the building stone. The rest of it is done with 3/4 poly iso nailed right to stud and this building stone ran right up not sure of the air gap or if there even is one. The new window is not wood its aluminum clad but I was still thinking about not having anything up against it. I don't know if there's a rain screen up under cedar siding it may just be poly iso on studs also. Your talking about like a head flashing with a kick on to slide under cedar siding and then kick out over masonry. Yes I think pella has some block frame windows that would be what you are talking about. Thanks for the comments any more would be much appreciated. Thanks again
The old window Has failed years ago....the new work is wrong , it will rot behind the stone, slowly if South, exposure, faster as hours of shade increase....slower in desert climes...
The stone aren't cut or laid to match old work. Your mason is a boot, or you have went cheapest bond/labor.. It isn't the control joints at the former jambs, it is the cobweb near rubble pattern used VS a semi random ashlar bond....the stone material appears a close match...
Far better a water tight barn tin then a poorly done masonry that creates a moldy living space till it's torn down by the surviving heirs. (I will kicked out of the brickie Union.....)
Will the home pass a federal mortgage qualifying inspection after this work is finished?
The upside, the property taxes should follow down the now lower sale value of the property.....😲
The stone aren't cut or laid to match old work. Your mason is a boot, or you have went cheapest bond/labor.. It isn't the control joints at the former jambs, it is the cobweb near rubble pattern used VS a semi random ashlar bond....the stone material appears a close match...
Far better a water tight barn tin then a poorly done masonry that creates a moldy living space till it's torn down by the surviving heirs. (I will kicked out of the brickie Union.....)
Will the home pass a federal mortgage qualifying inspection after this work is finished?
The upside, the property taxes should follow down the now lower sale value of the property.....😲
What’s rotting behind the stone? It’s vapor barrier insulation then air gap the original stuff doesn’t even have a vapor barrier and the inside was gutted and wasn’t rotting. The window is not wood there is clad aluminum. The stones don’t match this area exactly the rest of the house is laid like this only this area looks slightly different because left it was tacked up as a column and right it’s on a corner. Why comment crap if you know everything then put out what needs to be done. Obviously the old window failed years ago.
you are wasting your typing time
Hey, silly you installed an interrupted vapor barrier, = water trapping device, = rotted wood.
Your Masonry ignorance is profound, don't blame me for your basic knowledge deficits.
Denial never ends well.
You will remain ignorant with your attitude.
Go forth and fail.
Good luck, excuses aren't solutions.....
Good thing you're so intelligent and know everything to set everybody straight. Don't have to be so rude to people.
If you know just say hey here’s what needs to happen. Obviously I’m not trying to do some crap or I wouldn’t have put it on here.
Intelligence & knowledge are not always together.....
If I was headed for an iceberg. Grab the wheel, apologize later....
If the op time frame is ten years or less to gross failure this is an acceptable outcome Carry On.
Bless your Heart....
Maybe you could market this remodeling school as " Biodegradable "
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