Need a little help. Running chair down a stairway. Chair cut on 36 degree on miter saw where it meets the wall. Looking to return it into casing on the left. Cannot for the life of me figure the angle and the bevel for the cope. Any ideas?? Thank you so much
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Stairway chair rail return angle
jsnizzo
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Need a little help. Running chair down a stairway. Chair cut on 36 degree on miter saw where it meets the wall. Looking to return it into casing on the left. Cannot for the life of me figure the angle and the bevel for the cope. Any ideas?? Thank you so much
![Image]()
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3,658 Posts
If you have a compound miter saw … wouldn’t it be 45* miter and 36* bevel … and practice on scrap.
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2,067 Posts
i cannot for the life of me figure away this could work either .seems like one those situations . there are things one can do like a block in the corner or fudge the angles accept in this case they just seem ugle . my only positive add would be to die into a blank 1x [width of molding] and paint it to match .
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Dang. Forgot about that pesky hippotomoose.
Ever wonder why a lot of times you'll see it come to the corner, go vertical for a bit, then finally go horizontal into the corner?
Couple ways to get there.
Days gone by, you might bust out your molding planes and make a profile to fit.
Obviously the two angles must match for them to close perfectly.
Since one piece is at 45 degrees and the other is horizontal, you can fudge the miter to sorta make it close and look ok but one piece will be longer than the other. Maybe in that little spot behind a railing it won't matter. Scope it up and show them what it would look like.
The solutions are to install a corner block for them to meet to or simply tell the client it can't be done as they want.
Cut two small pieces and hold them on the wall to show them the problem since they probably won't understand what your saying and might think that you are a stupid that doesn't know how. An example for the client is simple and easy and eliminates the need for a lot of conversation.
BTW..The return piece to the cased opening would look dumb anyway, even if the angle worked.
Since one piece is at 45 degrees and the other is horizontal, you can fudge the miter to sorta make it close and look ok but one piece will be longer than the other. Maybe in that little spot behind a railing it won't matter. Scope it up and show them what it would look like.
The solutions are to install a corner block for them to meet to or simply tell the client it can't be done as they want.
Cut two small pieces and hold them on the wall to show them the problem since they probably won't understand what your saying and might think that you are a stupid that doesn't know how. An example for the client is simple and easy and eliminates the need for a lot of conversation.
BTW..The return piece to the cased opening would look dumb anyway, even if the angle worked.
To protect the wall from rowdy stair lift riders?
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2,401 Posts
Like has been suggested, it must be returned to level before going across.
I spent an hour and a half last month trying to do a similar cut, before I remembered that. it was the first time I'd ever run into the issue, but I remembered learning it here on CT. I definitely felt a little dumb once I remembered.
Also welcome to CT. What's your trade?
I spent an hour and a half last month trying to do a similar cut, before I remembered that. it was the first time I'd ever run into the issue, but I remembered learning it here on CT. I definitely felt a little dumb once I remembered.
Also welcome to CT. What's your trade?
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2,945 Posts
The how to do it seems well covered, although I think that's going to look a little funny with the chair running pretty much right over the top of the hand rail
Are you able to keep 1.5" between the railing and chair?
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Are you able to keep 1.5" between the railing and chair?
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
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2,067 Posts
ideally the hand rail would go to level to match the molding .
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