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using a spray shield

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Ohio painter

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My question is more towards curiosity than seeking advise, I know what works for us generally speaking.
This question is geared more towards commercial painting, not residential. I rarely spray residential.

We are wrapping up spray painting the exterior of a large metal siding / pole type building. A Morton or Armco building. We needed to trim out all the corner trim etc in an accent color. Generally in the past we just brush out all the trim after the siding is finished, this time we sprayed the trim and siding and used spray shields to keep one off the other.

Here is my issue, if I use a plastic spray shield it loads up with paint as you go, to the point it is dripping. Working in a lift makes keeping it cleaned off impractical. This time I bought a carton of pre-cut cardboard shields (I always scoffed at such a thought) and they worked ok. Once they loaded with paint I just tossed them.

What do others do? while using the shield was productive it becomes messy.

I thought of masking the corners with 12" masking paper but getting tape to stick to fresh Shercryl paint I have had issues in the past. I think it is just as efficient to cut and roll.

I appreciate any insight from those of you who spray paint far more than me.
Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I use both aluminum and cardboard shields. Aluminum you have to have a bunch of very absorbent rags or towels to wipe it off. I'm not sure why that's impractical for you.

I use primarily terrycloth towels, and just get the bulk of the paint off.

I almost never mask if I can just shield, it's so much faster.

If I don't want to clean a bunch of towels, I'll go with the cardboard shield. I believe it is overall cheaper, but not as stiff as aluminum.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
hdavis said:
Aluminum you have to have a bunch of very absorbent rags or towels to wipe it off. I'm not sure why that's impractical for you.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the replies. Not so much that it is impractical as more so I felt I was missing something. It is just that simple, plenty of rags and keep moving. In a lift the platform gets cluttered up enough, nothing more I suppose.
If I am on the ground and can keep shields washed off and dry while using multiple shields that is fine. At the end of the day its about time being used efficiently. I always feel like I am missing something and wasting time. I was surprised how efficient the cardboard shields worked just have to toss before they get all floppy and dripping (that doesn't sound right lol)
Masking rarely appeals, I too feel cutting and rolling is simpler.
Thanks.
 
#6 ·
Aluminum with the "plastic wood flooring protection film" (not the carpet protection film.......too strong of adhesive) wrapped around it. Small rubber squeegee wipes bulk of buildup off into junk bucket or trash. Rag to finish edges. It's nice to have that thin edge to push into corner with Aluminum. Cardboard gets flimsy bounces around to much. And is a bit bulk to edge of things. But have used cardboard at times too.

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#8 ·
Do you have a true example where you know where one method truly exceeds the other in terms of time and materials?
One method may save time or material on one aspect while losing time and material on another aspect.
I would experiment a little on the next few projects to be sure that what I assume is saving time and money really is.
Divide the building in half and use two different methods to complete each half while tracking the time and materials for each approach.
Do this a few times on a few different projects and the answer will present itself as to which process best suits which situations.

In my limited experience (painting is only 1% of my total project responsibilities) the guard system always frustrated me. I assumed it would be easier and faster but I get annoyed quickly when I have to keep stopping to wipe, clean or replace the guard. Taping and papering always felt like a waste of time and materials to me. If you have the skill set to just cut and paint in the accent, it seemed to be the simplest and most cost effective way to handle it. All I need is some paint and few brushes instead of a bunch of accessories to make it happen.
Obviously this may be way off base when 100% of your responsibility is to paint.
 
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#9 ·
Unger.const said:
Aluminum with the "plastic wood flooring protection film" (not the carpet protection film.......too strong of adhesive) wrapped around it. Small rubber squeegee wipes bulk of buildup off into junk bucket or trash. Rag to finish edges. It's nice to have that thin edge to push into corner with Aluminum. Cardboard gets flimsy bounces around to much. And is a bit bulk to edge of things. But have used cardboard at times too.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That's my issue with cardboard, too thick and turns into a wet noodle if you're actually trying to use it to cut in.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Next week we start a residential painting project. We will be masking the entire project and not using any shields. The project was planed this way, the metal soffits and windows will not be getting painted (all new) so shield is too risky to guarantee crisp lines.
Finished up the last commercial project that prompted this thread, my crew agreed that using a shield was fine for the commercial project where the trim was much higher up but not appropriate for the next job where more of the trim is below 10‘.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Ohio painter said:
Next week we start a residential painting project. We will be masking the entire project and not using any shields. The project was planed this way, the metal soffits and windows will not be getting painted (all new) so shield is too risky to guarantee crisp lines.
Finished up the last commercial project that prompted this thread, my crew agreed that using a shield was fine for the commercial project where the trim was much higher up but not appropriate for the next job where more of the trim is below 10‘.
Click to expand...
If there are uniform objects to paint around, like windows, and they're not too big, I'd consider using pre-cuts and masking them on...just a thought. May be better than masking films. Especially if there is even the lightest breeze, stuff is superlight.
 
#13 ·
Ohio painter said:
Next week we start a residential painting project. We will be masking the entire project and not using any shields. The project was planed this way, the metal soffits and windows will not be getting painted (all new) so shield is too risky to guarantee crisp lines.
Finished up the last commercial project that prompted this thread, my crew agreed that using a shield was fine for the commercial project where the trim was much higher up but not appropriate for the next job where more of the trim is below 10‘.
Click to expand...
I don’t do a lot of exterior and when I have I’ve masked everything. I was considering the spray shield for a 3 story peak and chimney but now they just want the trim patched and painted and maybe a full repaint in a couple years. I’m probably going to sub that part to my former coworker/crazy rock climber buddy, I don’t do anything I can’t get from a 28 foot ladder.
 
#14 ·
The way I use a spray shield I use the gun in the same bias direction as the shield. If the shield is vertical the gun fan is vertical, if the sheild is horizontal the gun fan is horizontial. I pull the trigger with the fan about 12" from the shield and oscillate the gun in a sweeping motion towards the shield. With some partice you can keep the shield pretty clean.

I prefer aluminium shields due to their thickness.

Tom
 
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