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Trusses Slightly Too Short

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#21 ·
Is the building, or your measurements from exterior of sheething or studs?

I'd probably just add a 2x4 top plate and call it good. Talk to the truss engineer to verify your trusses can handle reduced bearing on top plate.

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#24 ·
greg24k said:
Have you tried a truss stretcher?
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I haven't heard that mentioned in years :giggle: I have a brick stretcher, will that work? It's the Binford 7100 model.
JoeStanton said:
Why not just frame it at 40' and add a 5/4 water table? Who the hell misses a foundation by 2 inches?
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Crappy contractors. The sad part is we have to compete with these morons....at least on price.
 
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#26 ·
I always like to hear the outcome of someone's predicament. It's a bummer when they show up, ask an interesting question, then never come back to discuss. There are some interesting solutions though.
 
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#27 ·
RacinMason said:
Crappy contractors. The sad part is we have to compete with these morons....at least on price.
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The only people competing with crappy contractors are other crappy contractors.
 
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#28 ·
Joe Fairplay said:
The only people competing with crappy contractors are other crappy contractors.
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Is this more of your humor? You might add a smiley face so I know, it's so hard to tell :unsure:
Do you still stick to your original advice....run your walls out of plumb to hide someone's mistake? Or was that humor also.....I can't keep up.
 
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#29 ·
RacinMason said:
Is this more of your humor? You might add a smiley face so I know, it's so hard to tell :unsure:
Do you still stick to your original advice....run your walls out of plumb to hide someone's mistake? Or was that humor also.....I can't keep up.
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No humor at all. Quality contractors are not concerned by or competing with crappy ones. In fact we need crappy contractors, that is how we retain our value. If we all were great contractors than our value would be diminished. The you's of the industry bring the me's of the industry our value.
I absolutely stick to my original advice.
Your inexperience is showing here.
Most lumber 10' or longer has a crown larger than 1/2". What is checked as plumb on one section of a wall can easily be 1/2" out of plumb 12 inches away.
I will guarantee that on a 10' wall that you call level I will find areas that are more than 1/2" out of plumb over the 10' run. It is not uncommon to find the lower half of the wall plumb and the upper half of the wall slightly out of plumb.
You think you can detect something that out of plumb by .05 inch per foot with the naked eye? Silly boy.
You obviously are not familiar with the standards of construction used to settle disputes.
Try not paying someone because the 10' or greater wall is out of plumb by 1/2" or less. Good luck with that.
It's a workshop wall not a Bulgarian clock.
 
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#32 ·
A&E Exteriors said:
Notching the tails will take longer than adding the plate, and I'd make the plate a 2x4 instead of plywood
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Ya, great advice. Nothing like placing a truss engineered for 2X6 wall on a 2X4 top plate. Great work.
 
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#33 ·
I'm sure he's dead serious. Running your price into the ground to keep up with someone who does inferior work is just a good way to go out of business. You set yourself apart by doing good work and charge appropriately for it. And you need to learn to say no. If you aren't going to make money on a job then why do it? (there are reasons, keep your guys busy etc)
 
#35 ·
Pounder said:
It's perfectly acceptable if the engineer ok's it. I often have to make major structural changes because of field conditions. Most of the time the problem is solved over the phone.
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He didn't say call the engineer and get it cleared, he said to use a 2X4.
Notching the tails will take longer than adding the plate, and I'd make the plate a 2x4 instead of plywood
 
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#37 ·
Joe Fairplay said:
No humor at all. Quality contractors are not concerned by or competing with crappy ones. In fact we need crappy contractors, that is how we retain our value. If we all were great contractors than our value would be diminished. The you's of the industry bring the me's of the industry our value.
I absolutely stick to my original advice.
Your inexperience is showing here.
Most lumber 10' or longer has a crown larger than 1/2". What is checked as plumb on one section of a wall can easily be 1/2" out of plumb 12 inches away.
I will guarantee that on a 10' wall that you call level I will find areas that are more than 1/2" out of plumb over the 10' run. It is not uncommon to find the lower half of the wall plumb and the upper half of the wall slightly out of plumb.
You think you can detect something that out of plumb by .05 inch per foot with the naked eye? Silly boy.
You obviously are not familiar with the standards of construction used to settle disputes.
Try not paying someone because the 10' or greater wall is out of plumb by 1/2" or less. Good luck with that.
It's a workshop wall not a Bulgarian clock.
Click to expand...
Condescending much? You'll never convince me or any quality contractor that it's ok to put up a wall 1/2" out of plumb. I know the industry standards, they are pitiful....you're probably MUCH better prepared to advise someone on the limits of those standards and the dispute process. Try convincing a homeowner that you're going to frame up his wall 1/2" out of plumb because the industry standards says that's ok. If you're buying bent lumber for your projects, go to a better lumberyard. If that wall gets a masonry veneer, I can hide the carpenter's (you) mistake. I will hang the masonry 1/2" farther off the brick ledge, but I'll let the homeowner or contractor know that not the best way of fixing the mistake. If guys like me weren't fixing your mistakes, the job would go much smoother. Is "it's a workshop, not a Bulgarian clock" on your business cards?
 
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#39 ·
RacinMason said:
It looks like Joe FairPlay doesn't play fair, he making friends by the hour.
Are you now or previously a building inspector?
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I guess you are too stupid to know what CBC, RBC and RBI means.
Yes, I am a licensed inspector.
 
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