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Scott_SCLLC

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys - just wondering what folks are using for temporary support when replacing a load bearing wall (in lieu of a traditional 2x4 temporary support). I'm trying to find shoring poles that can support the same weight as a vertical 2x4 that are much easier/faster to setup. It just seems like it would save me some time and material doing it that way...

Oh, and yes I'm having an engineer review this project, yes I am pulling permit, etc. My question is really just about what folks are using as temporary supports in lieu of temporary 2x4 framing.

-Scott
 
Jack posts or screw jacks, as @rustyjames said, are easy to setup. However, if you're removing a carrying wall and you need to support 24 individual point loads, it's an expensive, fiddly setup. Each jack post will move independently. If the floor above is wonky, it might be impossible to keep a post from falling over and keep the tops of the posts in the same plane.

Of course, you could always span with a beam and only use a couple posts, but the connection point on those posts is not designed to keep a beam from rolling over (EDIT: The ones I've used, anyway). Plus, you'd need a big expensive beam, cut to size, for each side of the wall you're removing. You could split the difference with handful of posts for each side of the carrying wall, and put a couple 2xwhatevers on top of them, if you can solve the beam rolling/connection issue. Sounds like more work and money than it's worth.

So unless you are just picking up a few point loads, a 2x4 temp wall might be the most economical and stable solution.
 
We rented 20 10,000 pound 6-11 foot screw jacks for 400 bucks a while back. Cheap and easy.

They lag to the beams so they can't fall over.



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Nice! That's pretty cheap. What did you use for a beam? Something you had laying around?
 
A lot of you guys are way more experienced than me, but I usually wait for the engineer to design it and give me plans. That will tell me exactly what I need and where to put it. Am I missing something? Honest question.
 
A lot of you guys are way more experienced than me, but I usually wait for the engineer to design it and give me plans. That will tell me exactly what I need and where to put it. Am I missing something? Honest question.
The design is the responsibilty of the architect or engineer. After that it becomes means & methods, and that’s on the contractor.
 
Here is some post shores and 4x4s holding up my whole house when I rebuild my foundation walls


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David
Those are the ones we used. They work great, but need a better lever to screw interface. We broke a couple.

By broke, I mean the screw collar pin holes. You would really have to work at actually breaking the columns.

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The design is the responsibilty of the architect or engineer. After that it becomes means & methods, and that’s on the contractor.
Not in my neighborhood. Any demo involving shoring must have a shoring plan. Permit application will be rejected without it. It's a structural issue with serious consequences so it needs to be designed by a pro, not guessed at.
 
That was kind of my point. Of course you can guess. But do you really want to absorb that risk? Not me.

The point is OP said he has an engineer to review it. Ideally, I would have my engineer do a site visit first, review it, and draw up the plans. Then give the plans to the EOR for final approval. The plans will tell you the who what where why on how to do it.
 
Pompanosix:
Yes. In the case of a simple removal of a bearing wall and replacing it with a beam/header, the engineer has already calculated the beam so he has the load numbers. It takes him 5 minutes to do the shoring plan, which may be as simple as a statement to build a couple of 2x6 wall frames and attach to joists and floor.
 
We've used the screw-type shoring posts numerous times. Typically to provide temporary support when reframing bearing walls. Engineer not required. They have already spec'd new wall/load configurations--how to do it is in the contractor's court. Like @VinylHanger mentioned above.
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They're often useful not necessarily as support for bearing loads, but just to raise certain framing members into position.
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I will say that we have gone through a lot of experimenting to find the best tool to crank them. Rebar through the holes bends too quickly, stock level is garbage, etc. Longer steel pipe has been the best way to get leverage and not go flying if something slips or bends 🙃
 
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