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Technique for installing LVP under trimless door casing?

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door jamb flooring lvp trimless doors
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graymatter

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I need to install LVP flooring under trimless door casings in which the drywaller used corner bead kerfed into the door jamb. I have two things I'm trying to figure out so that I get the cleanest look possible. Keep in mind that the flooring has to run under the kerf metal because the baseboard terminates at the jamb.

  1. How to cut the corner bead so that it is as clean as possible (and does not pop off the drywall)?
  2. How to install the LVP under these transitions and still lock it into the click lock system?
For #1, the current plan is to use my Fein Multimaster with a carbide blade with a scrap of flooring for the proper height. I'm not in love with this method. It's not terrible, but a practice go at it in a closet show's that it's not the cleanest method in the world because of the oscillation and that fact that it has to vibrate on the metal before it plunges in for a cut. Some kind of Japanese hand saw that could cut through corner bead sound cleaner, but I'm not aware of one that cuts through metal (even metal as flimsy as corner bead).

For #2, I'm trying to figure out how to do this through door transitions, and also how to install under door transitions and termite exactly at a Schluter strip where it connects with tile under the door for a super clean look. It would be parallel with door when closed. Like this connection:
508802


Here's a normal door transition that I'd just like to go through (would run parallel with door when closed).


508801


But even more difficult to figure out is how to
 
#2 ·
Putting any click lock system through door is a pain in the backside. The last time I had to do it, I literally just beat the piece of material into place. It was an ugly solution that worked. I'll never do it again.
 
#4 · (Edited)
The multitool will probably tear it apart. Maybe a grinding disk and burr bits on a dremel, along with a guide block to lean against, hold it tight, and keep the cut straight. I don't envy you.

Be mindful about scratching the floor with the sharp edges.

One more thing...look into a right angle attachment for a dremel, if you decide to go that route.
 
#5 ·
I have installed a few LVT floors now. As easy as they are to install, you are forced to compromise given the installation method and guidelines. Most of the floors require an expansion1/8" gap or more between the LVT and other surfaces IIRC. As you found out, the mechanics do always let you get the tiles into the right position. I get it to fit the best I can given the limitations and then I caulk the exposed joints/gaps with a close color matched silicone caulk (e.g. Mapesill) so they are less obtrusive.
 
#6 ·
When a piece needs to be pounded into place, I trim a little of lock off so it will slide together easier without damaging the piece while hammering it together. If you're worried about it put a dab of glue in the joint before your put it together.
 
#7 ·
SouthonBeach said:
When a piece needs to be pounded into place, I trim a little of lock off so it will slide together easier without damaging the piece while hammering it together. If you're worried about it put a dab of glue in the joint before your put it together.
Click to expand...
This is the answer for going through tough doorways or other areas that are hard to get the locking joint together. CA glue will hold it in place. As for the corner bead, a rotary tool will work better than a vibrating multi tool at no damaging drywall mud.Dremel, rotozip ect.
 
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Half-fast Eddie
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