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Grizzly vs Unisaw cabinet saws

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#22 ·
I picked up a 3hp 52" fence unisaw off Facebook last year (I think) for about $350, and it was one of the best tool purchases I've made. It's probably at least 10 years old, maybe closer to 15, but still cuts great

Of course, stepping up to that from a job site makita is hardly a fair comparison

- Rich
 
#23 ·
Mine is the X5.

I was wrong, I have a Jet Unisaw and a Jet Planer also. My 3 shapers are Delta along with the jointer, edge sander and drill press.

Earliest pic I have is 2008 but that's when I put the dust collection system in there.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
rblakes1 said:
I picked up a 3hp 52" fence unisaw off Facebook last year (I think) for about $350, and it was one of the best tool purchases I've made. It's probably at least 10 years old, maybe closer to 15, but still cuts great

Of course, stepping up to that from a job site makita is hardly a fair comparison

- Rich
Click to expand...
Lucky bastard :eek:. I've been watching CL and had a friend watching a FB used woodworking equipment page for me. I asked about 2 different used Unisaws that were each $1,200 and no response from either. I'd have scarfed up one of those in a heartbeat. The only other cabinet saw I found was a used 1.75 hp Sawstop for something insane like $2,200 :ROFLMAO:
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Leo G said:
Mine is the X5.

I was wrong, I have a Jet Unisaw and a Jet Planer also. My 3 shapers are Delta along with the jointer, edge sander and drill press.

Earliest pic I have is 2008 but that's when I put the dust collection system in there.
Click to expand...
I can't figure out how to multiquote lol. If I could've found one like a used x5 I would've. I looked for a couple months but threw in the towel today and ordered the Grizzly.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
A friend just texted me a nice 220v Jet cabinet saw that was on FB Marketplace for $1,200 that had a 52" fence. If I didn't already have the Grizzly shipping to me I'd be on way to get the Jet. Oh well, its only money, we can always just make more lol. And who knows, maybe that guy wouldn't respond like the last 2 I tried.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I have a pm70 which is nice with a 12" blade. 7.5 hp and the upgraded fence. I still really need a widebelt sander in my life. I have the grizzly 20" planer but the sheet metal on it is pretty chincy and it only has one speed now because the stupid knob won't come all the way out and engage the slower speed. I'd like to get a jet or pm 24". It's not often but the times you are planing something 22" you are cussing the 20".

Problem with the unisaws is getting parts for them. Delta is like General now where it takes forever to get replacement parts. And the old unisaws you can't get any parts for.

The next saw I buy will be a Ekstrom Carlson straight line rip. So much more efficient and does about 90% of the cuts you do on a table saw.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Deckhead said:
I have a pm70 which is nice with a 12" blade. 7.5 hp and the upgraded fence. I still really need a widebelt sander in my life. I have the grizzly 20" planer but the sheet metal on it is pretty chincy and it only has one speed now because the stupid knob won't come all the way out and engage the slower speed. I'd like to get a jet or pm 24". It's not often but the times you are planing something 22" you are cussing the 20".

Problem with the unisaws is getting parts for them. Delta is like General now where it takes forever to get replacement parts. And the old unisaws you can't get any parts for.

The next saw I buy will be a Ekstrom Carlson straight line rip. So much more efficient and does about 90% of the cuts you do on a table saw.
Click to expand...
I love my Grizzly planer, but it sounds like you use yours more than I use mine. As far as belt sanders go, are you thinking the drum style or the bigger one? I have a Laguna 19-38, I got it for making veneer and for doing live-edge (although I haven't tried doing any live edge with it yet). I really like it and I'm surprised at how well it works so far.

I considered a 12" table saw, but I already have a LOT of blades for my 10" and didn't want to make that other investment. Plus from what I've read, I don't do enough with mine to justify a 12", the 10" is actually more than I need at the moment. But it'll be nice to get away from outfeed rollers, plus having to have a helper for the wider plywood crosscuts.
 
#33 ·
A drum sander can never be called a wide belt sander. Two totally different animals.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Leo G said:
A drum sander can never be called a wide belt sander. Two totally different animals.
Click to expand...
Agree but I've heard drum sanders referred to as belt sanders... I should've assumed Pinwheel knew the difference. I never understood the desire for the widebelt if you have a planer. I had a friend that actually preferred the widebelt over the planer- that seemed to me like a more expensive, finicky, slower way to have to get the job done vs using a planer. His was a little understandable because he did a lot of reclamed lumber for me, and with a belt sander a nail wasn't as expensive as a planer hitting a nail. But now that I have the spiral cutterhead planer, I'm not even sure that's true because a nail would only hit like 4 teeth, vs smoking a whole belt on a widebelt sander.
 
#35 ·
A widebelt is the cat azz. I'd love to have one. It is one of the biggest time savers in the shop. A planer has no real comparison other than both of them bring wood to thickness.

If you have a 3 head sander you don't need a planer. 36 grit on the front head 80 in the middle and 120 on the last head. Light sand at 150 with the RO sander. If you are doing stained you'll need to go to a higher grit on the sander.

But for the most part planer then 120, 150, 180 then sand to 150 with the RO sander.

You'll know the savings if you do countertops.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Leo G said:
A widebelt is the cat azz. I'd love to have one. It is one of the biggest time savers in the shop. A planer has no real comparison other than both of them bring wood to thickness.

If you have a 3 head sander you don't need a planer. 36 grit on the front head 80 in the middle and 120 on the last head. Light sand at 150 with the RO sander. If you are doing stained you'll need to go to a higher grit on the sander.

But for the most part planer then 120, 150, 180 then sand to 150 with the RO sander.

You'll know the savings if you do countertops.
Click to expand...
Pretty sure that's what he had. Makes sense, just seems like an expensive way to go. Is it faster than a planer? How much can it take off per pass when using it for something like surfacing 4/4? And can you lift the other belts when you start surfacing? Seems like a waste to use the finer grits if you're starting at 1" thick. I should've paid more attention when he used it, but this was like 15 years ago, he's retired now.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I'm definitely impatient, so getting it done NOW is usually my way. I don't have issues with the planer, the wood is generally pretty smooth after I plane it. For example, plane 4/4 down to 3/4... rip it up and make a door. Sand with 120, then 220 (unless really hardwood then I'll add a 150 in the middle) and good to finish for me. I'd still have to sand it even if the sander could finish it to 220 because I'm good, but not that good with my router table when I glue my rails and stiles together lol.
 
#38 ·
It's not faster. Maybe 1/16" with the 36 grit configuration. But you can do the wildest of grains and never have issues.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Leo G said:
It's not faster. Maybe 1/16" with the 36 grit configuration. But you can do the wildest of grains and never have issues.
Click to expand...
If I had the money and the floor space... in a perfect world I'd have both the planer and the widebelt. Thickness plane the wood to 13/16", then feed it through the widebelt for the final pass. But I don't so... I'll keep throwing boards at the 20" Grizzly and sanding... and sanding... and sanding some more :). I have that Laguna 18-36, what I should do is feed my planed lumber through that using some 220 grit just to get a head start, but I don't even do that. Maybe I'll try that next time and see if it's a time saver.
 
#40 ·
I hate sanding.

Couple of reasons I don't have one. Inexpensive (new) one is $12K. Floor space. Power requirements. I have the power, but the box is full (1 slot left) and they are 3 phase (3 slots required). So on top of getting the sander, upgrading my dust collection I'd have to put a sub panel on the breaker box just to power it. On top of that I work off demand rated electricity so my electic bill would go up about $100 a month the first time I turned it on. Assuming a 15 HP motor.
 
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Deckhead
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