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Cutting out decking for posts afterwards

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Tom M

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I've been all over the place doing this. Couple of bored holes and a jigsaw,. One big hole then a router with a flush bit. Then rabbiting it back to allow expansion and contraction.

Just wondering if anyone has a better technique there faster. I suppose two routers already set helps but it's still a few step process.
 
#3 ·
I do them as I go and cut around them. How do you know exactly where the edge of the joist is? Is it already blocked in?

Maybe I'm not reading it correctly. You don't have the posts framed in and blocked before you deck it?

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#7 ·
Good point, but I'm too cheap to buy a track saw. :laughing:

I notch my deck boards while placing them, and where a post will interfere with a trim cut, I place the end pretty dead nuts to where it should be when finished. Any small inaccuracy gets feathered out with a belt sander.

I just feel better about the posts being blocked as tightly as possible. That ain't happening if you're dropping them in after decking.
 
#8 ·
If you can do hole layout on surface of deck, I'd probably do a plywood template to fit a round base router. If post is 3.5 x 3.5, then template hole = 3.5 + 6"? router base - bit size. If you're using a .5" bit that would be 3.5+6-.5 = 9"x 9" template hole. Then the router would wobble around in hole 3" + 1/2" router bit = 3.5" hole. Then it's a simple matter of centering template on layout. You do need to verify that the router base is centered on router shaft to be accurate. They are usually close enough for this type of work.
I like routing stair stringers this way vs using the small router base guide bushings. The shavings are less of an issue also.
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
I've done is after. However we decided it's much easier to get it plumb where needed when the decking isn't in the way. A 1/16" at the base is a lot in 45" at the top. Sometimes we need to manipulate the bottom portion of the post. Then there's the hardware we are putting in. Such as dttz simpson brackets.


Mike.
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#14 ·
Calidecks said:
I've done is after. However we decided it's much easier to get it plumb where needed when the decking isn't in the way. A 1/16" at the base is a lot in 45" at the top. Sometimes we need to manipulate the bottom portion of the post. Then there's the hardware we are putting in. Such as dttz simpson brackets.


Mike.
_______________
[emoji631] [emoji631]
Click to expand...
That was my thought. There would be a lot of ladder work if you do it all after. Whenever I do post through the framimg, there is a ton of framing and blocking.

That would be a pain from underneath. Especially after the fact.

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
I do the posts before once in a while depending on access later. Like everyone said better for post installation worse for trimming. Running the track saw in between posts sucks. Its not as clean anyway you do it.

I tack a cleat sometimes and precut the board on one side to butt up to it but with composites, depending on the sun will move around.

Really nothing better than cutting with a straight shot.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
VinylHanger said:
And how would you do a ground level deck. Especially if you had any hardware or lags to do.

Then you probably have to it after.

It is easier to tracksaw a flat deck, but the posts are only in the way for some of it.

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Click to expand...
Ground level decks are usually 2x6 for a single step so not only do you not need railings but the framing provides bad leverage.

In the case the owner wants them, I'm a big fan of the surface mount steel. Very rigid.

In fact I wrestle with always using them. Cost wise it's more but not much
 
#20 ·
As I was having lunch and gave more thought to it, it is 100 times easier and faster to do it before the decking...
That said, regardless of which way one does that, everyone is the boss so do it your way, nobody will take that away from you.:thumbsup:
 
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