Hello all- About six months ago I went to Calif (I live and work in NZ) to put LP smart siding on a family home. Now that the rains have come the siding is buckling around the house. It's almost like the siding is absorbing rainwater and swelling thus buckling. We installed per instructions and left a 3/16" gap on every end and but joint. I have watched the repair video and will try that. (Sawzall a new kerf to let the plank lay flat). My question is about the original product. Check out this photo of the back of the siding. It seems odd to me. Enough I took photos of it. Does anyone have any idea of what would cause this wave-like line on the back of the planks? Was it glue starved? Was that just the way the planks should have looked? Thanks for the help.
LP siding buckling check out the original photo
yachtwork
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
I was thinking the same but couldn't really tell on either pic if the gap is correct. I know from my supplier the gap is the main installation mistake in any type of Smartside.
To the OP is that piece that looks water stained off the house? Is water getting trapped behind the siding? Did you use a vapor barrier?
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
Of course the gap isn't right, it's expanded and closed the gap, then buckled. These aren't photos of fresh after install.
Joined
·
2,781 Posts
Yes. That’s what I see. Probably/possibly installed with a 3/16 gap, but then expanded to close the gap and kept expanding, causing the siding to bow.
As to why it expanded, so much, I don’t think we can tell from the pictures.
Could be water, but the pieces of LP I’ve seen exposed to water, doesn’t affect them. At least not in the short term. Which this is.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No wonder we don't use it here.
Looks like the siding was very dry when installed and now is very wet and has expanded. If it was painted properly I don't see how that can happen but it has. Seems almost like it needed to sit out and get acclimatized before install like flooring.
Thanks for the ideas. The siding was installed in the hot dry summer. The house was 20 years old and the old siding, a very similar product had come to bits so it was removed. The house had been wrapped and we added a second layer of house wrap over the old wrap. The house felt very dry when we put on the new siding. I am now looking for what step we should take to rectify and save the situation. My best guess at this point is to reach in with a sawzall and cut out a kerf that will allow the siding to lay flat. Any other thoughts on what I should do next? Thanks again.
I would use a multi tool instead, cleaner. You can customize a blade to get under the laps.
Joined
·
143 Posts
How did you nail it? What is the reveal?
Nailed with gun
The planks were nailed on every stud at 16" with the nails they gave me at the shop where we bought the siding. We used an air a nail gun. The nails looked right and we set the gun so they were just flush when nailed. We marked the OSB/paper with a red crayon to mark the studs. If I missed a stud I could see the nail went too deep into the siding and I could try again to find the stud so I think we did pretty good on getting the nails into the studs.
The planks were nailed on every stud at 16" with the nails they gave me at the shop where we bought the siding. We used an air a nail gun. The nails looked right and we set the gun so they were just flush when nailed. We marked the OSB/paper with a red crayon to mark the studs. If I missed a stud I could see the nail went too deep into the siding and I could try again to find the stud so I think we did pretty good on getting the nails into the studs.
Joined
·
13,887 Posts
ZIP panels are also made with better adhesives, and an OSB derivative. If it gets moisture in it, it has tremendous power to expand and buckle. It is much more "rigid" than standard OSB even after becoming wet; it doesn't compress well.
I suspect this is very similar material, and agree with needing to face nail any material with relief cuts (or replacing), as it likely will not lay back down nicely.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I suspect this is very similar material, and agree with needing to face nail any material with relief cuts (or replacing), as it likely will not lay back down nicely.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
143 Posts
You are probably going to have to face nail it.
Joined
·
18,380 Posts
What is the "fiber" version made of? What kind of fiber, never heard of it.
They use a lot of the wafer Smartside around here. If I was to reside my own place, I would probably use it if I didn't do vinyl.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
They use a lot of the wafer Smartside around here. If I was to reside my own place, I would probably use it if I didn't do vinyl.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
13,681 Posts
It’s similar looking to the stuff they make pegboard out of.
I have a piece of 4x8 I’ll try to dig out and take pics of.
Joined
·
13,681 Posts
Here’s a picture I just found online:
And the article that it was attached to:
http://www.startribune.com/problems-with-lp-smartside-installations/330824331/
And the article that it was attached to:
http://www.startribune.com/problems-with-lp-smartside-installations/330824331/
Attachments
Joined
·
18,380 Posts
Oh man, no way would I use that around here. That looks a lot like masonite type siding.
We used to get mushrooms growing out of that stuff around here.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
We used to get mushrooms growing out of that stuff around here.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Acclimating is kind of the conclusion I have come too. And leaving a gap.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
