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Framing for Sound Proofing

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#23 ·
artinall said:
Warren said:
Gotta do something with the door, that is your weakest link. The exterior door would help, as it also seals at the bottom. You could keep the wall 2x4, then add 2"foam before drywall. Vibration is the worst enemy.
Click to expand...
You suggesting installing an exterior door on an interior wall member?

Like the foam idea but...never to be adjusted/reset again.


You should consider block wall with a solid door.

Insulated wall each side of the block. Then you need to treat the ceiling. Double ceiling with lots of drywall. Insulate the cavities. Roxul .

You will need to address the ceiling leave no gaps.

Good luck
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#24 ·
Seal the room and then put a complete vacuum in it. As we all know sound can't travel in a vacuum. And the people in the room would die from no air. So they really won't hear anything. :laughing:

5/8" drywall, staggered studs with cellulose insulation, solid core doors. Have curtains on the theater side of the wall to start the deadening before it even hits the wall.
 
#28 ·
Acoustic tile serves a purpose.........just sucks to repair it if needed.

I have used homasote backing and neoprene gaskets between plates and floor/ceiling.

Another product is "Quiet rock" This I have not tried out so I can verify its claims but in any application mentioned insulation is going to help
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Tom M said:
Acoustic tile serves a purpose.........just sucks to repair it if needed.

I have used homasote backing and neoprene gaskets between plates and floor/ceiling.

Another product is "Quiet rock" This I have not tried out so I can verify its claims but in any application mentioned insulation is going to help
Click to expand...
How'd the Homasote do?
 
#31 ·
artinall said:
How'd the Homasote do?
Click to expand...
I used homosote on both sides of a 2x4 wall separating bedrooms in my house. I also sealed around penetrations and outlets. I can have my computer at 3/4 volume and hear absolutely nothing in the other room.

I also used some at my camp and the smell was awful. Waited a month before covering to see if it went away. No dice, ripped it out and threw it away. I find the black colored didn't smell and the grey was awful. Neither had a name printed on them, so no help there.
 
#33 ·
All of the above ideas are good.

I don't know if anyone mentioned a seal at the bottom of the door. When you shut the door, the seal drops down.

One thing I know for sure. No matter what, people will think there is too much sound coming through. I've done everything from walls to rooms to confessionals. No matter what, someone thinks it should be better.
They also never want to spend the money, to do the best possible.

FYI. A door for a sound proof room, cost about $3,500. Think sound studio quality.
 
#34 ·
Tom M said:
Acoustic tile serves a purpose.........just sucks to repair it if needed.

I have used homasote backing and neoprene gaskets between plates and floor/ceiling.

Another product is "Quiet rock" This I have not tried out so I can verify its claims but in any application mentioned insulation is going to help
Click to expand...
I was going to mention Quiet Rock, were used it in a few commercial jobs where sound proofing was needed between units.

It's not cheap, but works well. It's also really friggin heavy

-Rich
 
#37 · (Edited)
Conventional Dry wall, sprayed with very low growth "foam" , think undercoating / rubber dampening layer...On "back side'i

Install a "Noise door" over regular door again coat both with lead/ rubber sound deadening products, and a thermal/ sound SPLIT Jamb....

buy a Bose active noise reducer.......

old school lay "nogging" brick and CMUs between studs with coarse concrete fill or perlite.

Saw the studs in the walk-in closet long ways in the center, interrupt the cut at half high with off set slit...

lay out the party wall out of square or(make a couple of "random offsets" to reduce the room's resonance..) to the other 3 walls of the theater room. Saw cut deep the floor slab at BOTH closet wall line.
just add an "extra" MASONRY sand filled wall near the closet?

Get an sound engineer to analysis the floors and walls to make their resonant frequencies sub-sonic or super sonic....
 
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Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
In the interest of 2 x 6's I could have been more vocal with the basic layout (blue)...here.

There will be 3 breaks in the outer wall while the inner closet is standard stud.

Would it really make sense to do this in wider 6's with these angles? Shouldn't the wider framing maintain on both ends and also where there are breaks/angles... so, with these obstructions would that defeat the purpose of "offset studs" for better soundproofing?

Debating how much a standard wall, doubling up 1/2" sheetrock on the far outside only would give...or maybe 1/8" black mat since I'm not prepared for the heavier 1/4"

.
 

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