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Golden view

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
This is a dummy question for me, but I've worked the last 12 days in a row long hours and I need to pull the trigger on a decision soon because walls start Monday and a delay would lose me my truss delivery date, and I'm too lazy to go through my detailed estimating process.

On this fire restoration job I'm doing, it turned into just rebuilding everything but the foundation and a few joists. My inspector unexpectedly gave me the go ahead for this, and it's easier this way.

Architect stopped by and said wow, if we're doing this much, why not go to a 9' ceiling? Now, I've done countless ceilings of every height, but sometimes I screw myself on such a simple change, not thinking through all the implications. Am I missing anything? Building perimeter is 160 linear feet.

  • Restock/pickup fee for studs currently on site.
  • Higher cost of 104" studs.
  • Same amount of blocking for 8 or 9' walls the way we sheath here.
  • 160 square feet of additional sheathing, insulation, siding, exterior paint.
  • Around 500 sf additional drywall and interior wall paint.
  • Easy site, 1 level home means negligible considerations for working higher.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Any restrictions in bldg height?

Your clients be good with 6'8" doors on 9' ceilings?

Any hvac concerns?

Rain water leaders?
All good points. Building is well within height limits (which is unusual for my projects)

Will mention to owners the door height considerations.

HVAC VERY slight modifications, but I didn't budget for it.

4 more linear feet of downspouts! :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Exterior corner boards, probably negligible, if they come in 20's anyway.

If you have to go to 9' or 10' plywood sheathing, in my area it's more per Sq Ft than 8'.

Or you have to block.
We run 8' all the way down the rim, block, and then add a strip up high. So same amount of blocking, just a 1' wider strip. 10' plywood is available but not commonly used.

Good point on corner boards, but they do come in 20' so should be down to about zero waste. Nearly 10' from mud sill to soffits.
 
Does the property warrant it?
If you are building a really nice house it’s a no brainer to get new studs and 10’ OSB.

If the job is cost plus, just surprise the clients!

If it’s a bid, talk to them and do a change order?


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I'd actually get back with the architect on the two issues they control and probably haven't worked out.

1) Are they going to change window sizes? Normally this would be a yes.

2) Any changes to base, case, crown?

It's easy to just throw an idea out there, but there are aesthetic considerations that go along with thus "simple change".
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Does it change the shearwall values? Higher can mean a different Calc for lateral movement.


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631]
This may have been the biggest issue. Lots of shear walls and hold downs in this build, as always around here.
 
It's not only the materials:

Framing labor for 9' walls. heavier walls, more sheathing, higher working heights, it all adds up.
Same thing applies for other subs. Some would say this is negligible for going from 8 to 9', but what if it was 10' or 12'?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
54” sheets of drywall are about $0.04/square foot More than 48” wide sheets. So not only is more drywall required, the per square foot price is higher too.




I’d always recommend 9’ ceilings on main floors unless you’re doing a vault or tray or something.




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Good point but same amount of joints for 12.5% more wall area.
 
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