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traderfjp

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The previous owners installed hardi panels on the home we purchased. These are large 4 x 8 panels. He didn't want battens so he used urethane in 1/4" joints. He then ran out of money. Is there any reason I couldn't use a masonry primer and then topcoat with Elastomeric Paint? Elastomeric Paint is a thicker coating and would hide the shadow lines. The house has a good vapor barrier and if water got behind the panel it could weep out from the bottom. Thanks in advance
 
The previous owners installed hardi panels on the home we purchased. These are large 4 x 8 panels. He didn't want battens so he used urethane in 1/4" joints. He then ran out of money. Is there any reason I couldn't use a masonry primer and then topcoat with Elastomeric Paint? Elastomeric Paint is a thicker coating and would hide the shadow lines. The house has a good vapor barrier and if water got behind the panel it could weep out from the bottom. Thanks in advance
those pre-primed, and with what? - you might want to find out
 
Elastomeric vs. 100% Acrylic for Hardieboard

" He didn't want battens so he used urethane in 1/4" joints. He then ran out of money."
I'm pretty sure he ran out of money first, so he didn't install battens. 1/4" gaps will eventually be the source of water intrusion.

"Is there any reason I couldn't use a masonry primer?"
A masonry conditioner, (Sherwin Williams Loxon), is a good choice for the 1st coat, especially if it's still factory primed.

"... and then topcoat with Elastomeric Paint?"
Recipe for disaster. Big 1/4" gaps , water gets behind painted surface, elastomeric keeps it there...cue the bubbles.

"Elastomeric Paint is a thicker coating and would hide the shadow lines"
Yes it is and no it wouldn't.

"The house has a good vapor barrier and if water got behind the panel it could weep out from the bottom."
Not sure if you're referring to a vapor barrier or a weep screed, but it hardly matters. Applying an elastomeric would provide no advantages and several disadvantages. Much better off installing battens, using a masonry conditioner, then applying 100% acrylic topcoat.
 
" He didn't want battens so he used urethane in 1/4" joints. He then ran out of money."
I'm pretty sure he ran out of money first, so he didn't install battens. 1/4" gaps will eventually be the source of water intrusion.
Yes. If I understand this right I'd consider going over those "gaps" with battens, as already pointed out.

And you can't rely on a vapor barrier to shed water, even if the seams were taped - although you may end up getting trapped moisture and its effects if the combo wasn't intended to do.

If that primer is failing/separating/breaking down, I wouldn't run your hopes up too far, unless you can take care of that so something can adhere.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I would agree with Stelzer, nothing more to add. Good advice. I cringed when I read elastomeric.
Hardi sprays their panels, planks, etc. with a low grade primer that doesn't last long. They suggest re-priming if the planks / panels have been installed and not top coated after 180 days. I don't want to take a chance since it has been way longer.. I've never used elastomeric paint. The house to be painted is in a very wet climate. We get heavy rains often. It never gets too hot and there is some freezing weather in the winter. I was considering elastomeric paint because I like the idea of waterproofing the siding. Currently the siding will absorb moisture after a very hard rain. Then it dries out. Battens is not an option. The panels were not laid out properly to use battens or I would have gone that route in a second. The bottom of each panel sits on a stone shelf. Only half the house has the panels. The top story is Hardie while the first floor is clad in granite stone. If water got behind the panels it could weep out. Why do you cringe with elastomeric paint?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
It was a divorced situation so the owners stop putting money into the house. The panels were not setup properly for battens. I'm looking for a product that would hide where they spread the caulk into the joints. It's probably closer to 1/8" gaps. As posted the first floor has the hardie panels and the first floor has granite stone. The panels sit on a shelf where the granite starts. It only words the bottoms of the panels are not closed up but open. That is why I said the water could weep out. Any suggestions on what to use to seal the panels and to maybe use a thicker product to hide some of the caulking?



" He didn't want battens so he used urethane in 1/4" joints. He then ran out of money."
I'm pretty sure he ran out of money first, so he didn't install battens. 1/4" gaps will eventually be the source of water intrusion.

"Is there any reason I couldn't use a masonry primer?"
A masonry conditioner, (Sherwin Williams Loxon), is a good choice for the 1st coat, especially if it's still factory primed.

"... and then topcoat with Elastomeric Paint?"
Recipe for disaster. Big 1/4" gaps , water gets behind painted surface, elastomeric keeps it there...cue the bubbles.

"Elastomeric Paint is a thicker coating and would hide the shadow lines"
Yes it is and no it wouldn't.

"The house has a good vapor barrier and if water got behind the panel it could weep out from the bottom."
Not sure if you're referring to a vapor barrier or a weep screed, but it hardly matters. Applying an elastomeric would provide no advantages and several disadvantages. Much better off installing battens, using a masonry conditioner, then applying 100% acrylic topcoat.
 
It was a divorced situation so the owners stop putting money into the house. The panels were not setup properly for battens. I'm looking for a product that would hide where they spread the caulk into the joints. It's probably closer to 1/8" gaps. As posted the first floor has the hardie panels and the first floor has granite stone. The panels sit on a shelf where the granite starts. It only words the bottoms of the panels are not closed up but open. That is why I said the water could weep out. Any suggestions on what to use to seal the panels and to maybe use a thicker product to hide some of the caulking?
There isn't a paint that will magically hide the gaps regardless of thickness. That's what Hardie does soaks up water like a sponge it's junk. Just because it has a gap at the bottom doesn't mean all water will weep to the bottom. If you completely seal the Hardie then what?

You don't have any options but to reprime and paint with high quality acrylic as stated.
 
If you're looking for useful feedback, start by giving a clear understanding of your situation. Post clear pics, provide all relevant background info, and don't write sentences like this, "As posted the first floor has the hardie panels and the first floor has granite stone. The panels sit on a shelf where the granite starts. It only words the bottoms of the panels are not closed up but open. "

Lotsa smart dudes on this board who could help, but every last one of them suck at mind reading.
 
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