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Stunt Carpenter

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Hey Guys,

Wondering what everyone’s approach to securing half walls on a wood framed floor.

I have two methods that I use.

1. Run end stud through the subfloor and fasten to floor joist or block between two floor joists

2. When the wall sits on a beam making option 1 not possible I have added a metal L bracket to the stud and lag bolted it to the beam.


Wondering what other options are out there. Any new Simpson type products that simplify this ?
 
When over a beam, I've run a metal strap down under the beam and up each side of the end stud of the half wall. Very strong.

If the wall length and height are similar, double top plate it, 2-3x end stud, and glue and screw sheetrock and it will be amazingly stiff, like better than a stud down to the joist. More so if you do the same with plywood. Make sure it's lagged both down along the bottom plate and at the stud next to the full height wall.
 
Just failed a rough building inspection twice a couple weeks ago over a partial shower wall that the inspector felt was too wobbly.

Solution eventually agreed upon was to remove the second top plate, turn two 2x4s on their side with a strip of half inch osb between them, run the new 2x4s past the half wall and straight into the adjacent exertior wall and secure them to a stud. Then we ran 3" deck screws in two rows up through the remaining top plate and into the extra long two by fours.

After we skinned the wall with drywall and did all that, thing was stiffer than a virgin's dick.

"Internet Commando"
 
Threaded rod from top plate down through beam, or attached to joist with a hanger, like a DTT2Z.



Cinch in down really tight. Obviously, it needs to run right along a stud, and use a large flat washer.



Works OK.
It works like sh!t because over time it will pull the wall one direction or the other hinging the bottom plate against the floor.

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I have used all of the methods listed above but I now use a new method.

I use a surface mounted deck post at the corner. Some are slender enough where you can pocket screw 3/4 play around the steel and end up @ a 2x4 width while grabbing a plate and adjoining studs.

Very stiff.
 
Any method for installing Newell posts and any method for stiffening walls helps.

I've seen them plenty solid, but just attached to the subfloor, not the framing. Worked fine next to a front load washer until the spin cycle hit wall resonance, then it would shake like crazy.
 
Have done all of those in the different circumstances.

On a concrete slab, we have been welding up a rectangular box out of 2" square tube. We bolt the steel rectangle to the floor and then screw the wall to the steel box. We've only done this on metal framing, but wood should work also.
It has worked very well, for us.
 
If the wall ends on a beam or is on a concrete slab I use what several local suppliers call a "low wall support bracket". Mostly used for steel studs but they work great for wood also.

It is a piece of steel channel about 1-1/2"x3"x1/8" thick welded to a base plate with a couple of holes for mounting. I don't have a pic but here is a drawing. The plate is closer to the size of the channel than my drawing shows.


Bill
 

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It works like sh!t because over time it will pull the wall one direction or the other hinging the bottom plate against the floor.

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Then don't use the method.


I've never done one like that, but I've removed a few, and they weren't wobbling.
 
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