The brake I am using in jobsite can only Catch a minimum of 3/4 of the trim coil. I would like to make a bend of material of a 1/2 inch or even a 1/4 inch. Can anyone recommend a brand of brake that will do this. Do i just need to adjust the brake? Any advice is appreciated.
Trim coil brake help
Drakeduze
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I have seen that done before and there was a bunch of rotten fascia towards the bottom of the rake years later. Unless a client wanted to have it done and sign off on it I wouldn't worry about the overlap being seen when you look up the rake.
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They probably never took the time to seal the joint well with a quality sealant like Goecell.
No doubt geo is excellent stuff but im still sticking with the traditional way so water cant run in. Like overanalyze, id only do it the other way if client signed off.
I did however do some of the windows on that farm house starting with the heads and running the legs up to it. Only on the first floor under the wrap around porch and the second floor under the eaves where it was less than a foot below the soffit. Made for a much tighter miter(actually a cope) when looking up. Small dab of osi quad behind the joint. All the gable ends exposed to weather were done heads last and took more time fitting.
I did however do some of the windows on that farm house starting with the heads and running the legs up to it. Only on the first floor under the wrap around porch and the second floor under the eaves where it was less than a foot below the soffit. Made for a much tighter miter(actually a cope) when looking up. Small dab of osi quad behind the joint. All the gable ends exposed to weather were done heads last and took more time fitting.
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I see most of the water entering in at the top edge of the aluminum rake where it meets the roof. Most bends are just left flat at the top and just shy of the shingles. Capillary action off the roof edge will let water right in and it runs down the inside of the aluminum trim to the bottom. Lots of guys will do a small 1/2" 45 kick out bend at the top of the rake bend to touch up tight under the shingle overhang but water can still get past... Drip edge is not always used around here up rakes.
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Here we go again with the drip edge argument lol. I'll stay out of it lol
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I must have missed that thread...
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Many threads. I see drip edge 1 out of 10 jobs here on fascia or rake . Then we argue that it's code other places. Yada yada ...
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Some towns around here are just starting to enforce drip edge on roofing jobs now...
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I see it on blueprints; sometimes called out as flashing, sometimes drip. Usually flashing.
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The house I grew up in was built in 1974 and it had drip edge.
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Yea it's been around forever. I take down gutters that are 50 years old with no drip and fascia looks as good as day it went up. Shingle length more important.
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I think its a good idea up rake edges, not so sure its needed along eaves when ice shield is folded down the fascia behind the gutter...
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