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Shower glass panel isn’t perpendicular to the curb

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
One of the panels in my glass shower is leaning at an angle. Panel A in the diagram below is leaning in the direction of the blue line below. Towards the inside of the shower. Over the length of 6 feet it’s out of perpendicular to the floor by 3/4”.

Initially I thought it was bc the track bar wasn’t level. If I could raise the bar near panel A I could get panel A to perpendicular with the floor. But the track bar is very close to level as is.

I’m afraid to hang the sliding glass door (panel C) on the track while panel A isn’t perpendicular.

Panel A and Panel B should line up on the curb with one another but Panel A is 3/4” further from the inside edge of the curb than Panel B. I inadvertently did this to get the holes in Panel A low enough to hook onto the track bar.

I think my next step is to unscrew the track bar from the wall near Panel A and move the bar to find a location that allows Panel A to stand up straight and the length from the inside curb to both Panel A and B are equidistant. If this position doesn’t leave the track bar level the sliding door (Panel C) won’t stay open.

The distance from
The Track bar to inside curb is 69 15/16 and 69 7/8 on opposing sides. So that looks good.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Image

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#3 ·
When you say out of perpendicular, do you mean it's out of plumb? It's hard to follow your description, but my first impression is the installer measured wrong and anchored the track in the wrong place. A jammer or laser level should be able to get it directly above the curb.

All glass & tile, you're really not going to be able to shim to hide any mistakes there, so if it ain't all square and plumb, it sounds like you're getting custom glass cut.
 
#4 ·
This is why I tell my plumber to never order shower doors from his supplier when it is for tile. Especially in a clean look like that.

If it is just the one panel that is off, you can redrill and reset it. Then just grout the old hole. I assume it is a single screw and bracket. If it is just a side off, it is harder because you can't really resize just one side of the hole easily and the screw into the backing will be wallered out, but if it is a half inch or so, it my not be too bad.

The only way to run doors these days is with a laser. You also need to make sure the panels are all parallel on the curb.

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#7 ·
Hard to follow. When on the track are each of the sliders plumb in both directions? Is the track level? Is the base level?

If so is the wall out of plumb causing the level panel to seat up against it leaving a gap?

Not so much what you can alter as finding what is out of plumb and correcting it.
 
#8 ·
agreed, it's hard to follow.

sounds like the bracket on the bottom of panel A is not set correctly. did you check if panel B is plumb? Panel B and panel A have to be in plane. use a 6' or longer level across those panels to make sure placement is correct. Ideally A and B should be plumb.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ok, I finally had a chance to get back to the shower glass project. Apologies for the poor initial description of the issue. Hopefully this is a bit clearer.

You guys are right - the glass panels are not only out of plumb but not square with the walls.

I’ve attached a diagram of the curbs and how the glass panels sit on the curbs. The measurements show the panels are not square with the walls. I should have used a rafter square to get it right the first time.

- The walls are plumb
- The junction where the curbs meet is lower than the where the curbs meet the wall. This is why the seal strip on Panel D is fully compressed at the bottom where Panel D meets the wall and not compressed at the top where Panel D meets the wall.


I think my first step is to take down panels A & B, and the unscrew the track bar. (Yes I screwed it into the wall already).

Next I’ll get Panel D square with the wall and plumb and set the measurement from inside glass to wall at 46 5/8” (manufacturers spec). I will also need to shim Panel D to get the seal strip compressed.

Then I’ll mark the hole for the track bar.

If the hole turns out to be in a different spot than the original hole, but close to it, how can I ensure structural integrity for that anchor?

Also what can I use to shim the floor with? I’m thinking some clear hard plastic or rubber could do the job.

Thanks!
Image



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#12 ·
I hate to be the jackass, but that is all sorts of fugged up. You need to be extra diligent with those. I install custom shower doors pretty often, but can't say I've ever installed one like that. I did see those at the big box and they look pretty cool.

The problem with the big box showers, if that is one, especially one with no side channel, is there is no room for adjustment. That means your tile needs to be perfect. I do customs, and I don't do channelless (sic) against the tile designs because of that. Even if it lasers near perfect, it may move 1/16th or so, and you have no room to adjust. Brackets are different, but you have nothing to hide it with on that design if I am seeing it right. Also, tile and glass don't get along, so I avoid the stress.

My supplier would give me a ripped bottom piece for the regular channel to sit on if it was a slider. In fact we just ordered one that a fiberglass tub was 1/4 inch down on one side. You need to be perfectly parallel or it won't stay open or closed. Older designs had a deeper channel that could hide it, but these new skinny frame designs don't.

As for the new screw hole, not sure. Maybe a longer screw if you haven't gone through the entire backing. Maybe a monster toggle, but I never trust those, though I've heard some guys around here swear by them, I swear at them.

You also need to get a cross laser if you do many more. I couldn't do them without one. also, your corner needs to be a true 90, and you need to run a line along the door side of the curb and go off that to match panels, whether they are on the same line or offset.

I do give you props for going for it. That looks like a lot could go wrong. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
VinylHanger said:
I did see those at the big box and they look pretty cool.



The problem with the big box showers, if that is one, especially one with no side channel, is there is no room for adjustment. That means your tile needs to be perfect. I do customs, and I don't do channelless (sic) against the tile designs because of that.





Maybe a longer screw if you haven't gone through the entire backing.


also, your corner needs to be a true 90, and you need to run a line along the door side of the curb and go off that to match panels, whether they are on the same line or offset.
Click to expand...

VinylHanger - thanks for all the pointers. Yes I did fugg up. ;).

Yes it’s a big box shower - The vigo Winslow with sliding door track door. I attached a pic of how it’s supposed to look.

There is some adjustment for out of plumb walls - but my walls are plumb.

I’m assuming the channel you’re referring to is the track you see some shower doors sit in. My sliding glass door sits on a overhead track. I do see a track in the pictures. I haven’t gotten to that step yet.

Good call on a bigger screw and drawing a line on the curb.

I’ve got a friend coming over tomorrow to help me fix it. Gonna start with Panel D in Diagram I drew that isn’t square with the wall.

Image


Image



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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Took another crack at the shower this weekend. After getting the panels square with the walls and with one another, and shimming the low curbs, I’ve discovered my track bar hole is in the wrong spot by 1/2” center to center.

I’m thinking I can put a flat head screw into the wrong hole to take up the void space. Then drill a new hole in the correct spot.

Any better options?

Image



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#17 ·
I assume the track will still cover the old hole. As long as you're screwing into wood behind the tile, I wouldn't be concerned with support if you can get the new hole drilled cleanly. Might not hurt to glop it with something just to minimize the chance of water getting in--though your actual screwhole is a weak point anyway in that respect.
 
#18 ·
if that's a track, drill a new hole to the side. oversize the hole slightly in the metal channel so you can adjust depending how far off the hole through the tile is. Its hard to get it dead on centered.

plastic shims are fine, silicon the bottom of it like the hingeless glass panels would end up.

if you have a visible hole, you can fill it with grout. let it dry, then one more application and don't wipe hard so that's it's level or just proud of the tile. I've played with colors and even (surface) mixed them to make holes nearly invisible.

is your wife pissed the shower isn't done yet?
 
#20 ·
Why is this in the plumbing section and not in the tile section? Never met a plumber that did glazing and this would go nicely with his existing subject there on figuring out how to do a tile shower.
 
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