Hello. I am framing up an 8x8 outdoor bathroom for a customer. The recently poured slab is only 4 inches thick. My question is this: is that enough support for a brick veneer? I really don't think so myself, but I have zero experience with brick veneer walls. Also, is osb and tyvek suitable for behind the brick?
Brick foundation size
Slickwilly
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Hello. I am framing up an 8x8 outdoor bathroom for a customer. The recently poured slab is only 4 inches thick. My question is this: is that enough support for a brick veneer? I really don't think so myself, but I have zero experience with brick veneer walls. Also, is osb and tyvek suitable for behind the brick?
Where are you located? And how high is the brick Veneer going?
Here in the Midwest you need to have a foundation that is at least below the frost line. If you are in a location that is not subject to freezing and you're not going that high with the brickwork (couple feet or less) it might be OK.
A lot of variables in your question and you need to follow local regulations and construction practices
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Here in the Midwest you need to have a foundation that is at least below the frost line. If you are in a location that is not subject to freezing and you're not going that high with the brickwork (couple feet or less) it might be OK.
A lot of variables in your question and you need to follow local regulations and construction practices
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I'm in Texas. Brick Will be about 8' high.
There are no footings around the perimeter for the slab?
Andy.
Andy.
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No. No footings. Just a 4" slab and that's it. I had a brick guy come by today and he said it would be ok, but I still don't think the slab can handle that weight. Granted, it's not a big wall by any means, but it's a decent amount of constant weight.
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Here ANYTHING with a sewer pipe REQUIRES a frost footing for long term survival of the connections on the Sewer piping....
How are you insulating the Banjo? It won't improve your rep. if they have blow all the water lines during each sub freezing moment...
Use of brick dura-wall in every course would reduce the numbers of pieces the crapper falls apart into, but would actually increase the demo costs when the structure was rebuilt to code with the funds the home owner gets from suing an obviously incompetent builder...
One could use 8" bed 4"high "buffalo brick" that could be grouted & rebarred every 4' in ALL directions or regular rock face CMUs....
Please post the H owners response the pouring of an useless chuck of Concrete...
Cheapest quality fix, is to trench around the 8 x 8 SOG and make the kybo 9.33' x 9.33' out side to outside wall dimension.....room for a shower and a pissoir.
Even climes with out frost need structural support and Rat barriers....I suggest a serious number of hours a week learning your trade before you "kill" anymore patients with your profound ignorance. A "rabbi" or mentor could save you hundreds of thousands in losses from Omissions and Errors, if consulted before acting....
How are you insulating the Banjo? It won't improve your rep. if they have blow all the water lines during each sub freezing moment...
Use of brick dura-wall in every course would reduce the numbers of pieces the crapper falls apart into, but would actually increase the demo costs when the structure was rebuilt to code with the funds the home owner gets from suing an obviously incompetent builder...
One could use 8" bed 4"high "buffalo brick" that could be grouted & rebarred every 4' in ALL directions or regular rock face CMUs....
Please post the H owners response the pouring of an useless chuck of Concrete...
Cheapest quality fix, is to trench around the 8 x 8 SOG and make the kybo 9.33' x 9.33' out side to outside wall dimension.....room for a shower and a pissoir.
Even climes with out frost need structural support and Rat barriers....I suggest a serious number of hours a week learning your trade before you "kill" anymore patients with your profound ignorance. A "rabbi" or mentor could save you hundreds of thousands in losses from Omissions and Errors, if consulted before acting....
Here is my advise. The existing slab is just 8' x 8'. No big deal ,jerk it out and install one that will do the job correctly. Why stack all that money on something inferior ?
As the old adage goes " there is never enough money to do things right,but always enough to do them twice".
As the old adage goes " there is never enough money to do things right,but always enough to do them twice".
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If the SOG was built with steel rebar/mesh one could possibly drag it aside, install the the needed grade beams,a drag/roller the SOG back into position.......
Or install sound 4x4" sill plates as needed(extra 3/8" or 7/16ths" LDSs or expansion anchors) for exterior walls, leaving the door opening UNCUT, jack up the ~3000 pound slab and underpin it with a footing/grade beam, return to original grade.:jester:
Its 200.00$ of crete, say goodbye.:thumbsup:
Or install sound 4x4" sill plates as needed(extra 3/8" or 7/16ths" LDSs or expansion anchors) for exterior walls, leaving the door opening UNCUT, jack up the ~3000 pound slab and underpin it with a footing/grade beam, return to original grade.:jester:
Its 200.00$ of crete, say goodbye.:thumbsup:
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It's just an 8×8 stand alone bathroom. I already told her just to put a 1/2" thick brick veneer on it. Her brick guy said it would be ok putting 4" brick on it, but some guys can be wrong. A lot. Never worked with brick. I'm not a mason. Recently moved to Texas from the Canadian border. I've done hundreds of foundations, built hundreds of houses. I've even built convenience stores, office building, and apartment buildings nearly by myself. I can tell I know more than fourth generation of beer man from his comments above.
Lots of places in Texas you're going to have slab cracking. I've seen wood additions done similar to what you're dealing with, and the slab cracked and the structure moved a lot once that happened. Wood moving isn't as bad as brick moving, but it's still plenty bad.
I wouldn't do it, even though a tail light warrantee would be doable. The second issue is permitting and inspections - depends on your AHJ.
I wouldn't do it, even though a tail light warrantee would be doable. The second issue is permitting and inspections - depends on your AHJ.
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Customers dad poured the slab. He,s been doing concrete in Texas "for years". Lol
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It's not attached to any thing. It's out in the middle of their yard.
Then he'd know someone who would build on it....
Of course the mason contractor said you can do it because you can. I would do the job as well however my guarantee is for the quality of my workmanship I cannot guarantee that the slab will not crack thus causing major cracking with my brickwork.
I don't know if this is common construction practices in Texas to only have 4" of concrete to support the structure
Your mason could be right but I would consult with someone who will assure you that it is proper
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I don't know if this is common construction practices in Texas to only have 4" of concrete to support the structure
Your mason could be right but I would consult with someone who will assure you that it is proper
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Yeah. None of my work is going to fail. Plus it's all guaranteed. However, the concrete and brick could easily fail. Just looking out for the best interests of my customer even though I have nothing to do with the concrete or brick.
Do you have expansive clay there?
Have you figured out what is needed for permitting?
I can do a 200sqft non-habitable space accessory structure here without permits, but to hook anything into the water / sewer system / electrical, I need permits.
Have you figured out what is needed for permitting?
I can do a 200sqft non-habitable space accessory structure here without permits, but to hook anything into the water / sewer system / electrical, I need permits.
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While waiting for the Beer truck I'll throw out one more solution for Not so slick Billy, lay down a 4" x 4" x 3/8" galvanized angle iron on the SOG, weld the corners together....
Or pour an ABOVE grade beam on the SOG, use brick pans on the exterior, paint/ tint to match real brick above..
one more freebie for the sexual intellectual, use sleeves on ALL the penetrations to reduce call backs, and don't forget the freeze drained water valves.
Grow a pair and tell the customer the SOG isn't what they need for a bathroom. IMHO
Or pour an ABOVE grade beam on the SOG, use brick pans on the exterior, paint/ tint to match real brick above..
one more freebie for the sexual intellectual, use sleeves on ALL the penetrations to reduce call backs, and don't forget the freeze drained water valves.
Grow a pair and tell the customer the SOG isn't what they need for a bathroom. IMHO
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