Does anyone know of a sealer for Ipe (Brazillian walnut) decking that will not peel off every two months? I used Cabot's Australian Timber Oil, brushed on after cleaning the surface, which was recommended by my supplier. It worked great, except that it peeled off within two to six months. Is this just something I have to reseal that often or is their a better product/ technique?
Jonny85
I've used both Penofin and ATO. You can't tell the difference after application. Neither should peel off, if applied correctly. Fade away, wear off, yes, peel, no.
One of them recommends reapplying after 6 months and gradually increase the reapplication periods. Ipe is so dense that I'm not sure that anything will last very long, but it sure looks good when you apply it.
One of them recommends reapplying after 6 months and gradually increase the reapplication periods. Ipe is so dense that I'm not sure that anything will last very long, but it sure looks good when you apply it.
Power wash with no cleaners. Use maybe a 30 deg nozzle but not too close. Get a feel for spraying that won't raise the nap but when dry will look like new. You can easily tell when you are cleaning that its working. If the nap comes up a bit, it will wear off in time, usually. This will remove left over finishes that are 'peeling'.
I dont recomend a power washer unless its cut down to 250/300 lbs and has a wide fan.
Drift on over to www.woodrich-brand.com the md80 will remove most any outdoor finish followed by an oxalic acid wash or the brightner those guys sell. I use the oxalic out of a 50lb bag but sometimes it brightnes too much.
The finish they have is very close to TWP in fact they had a twp guy onboard during the make up process. Both are build coat product the idea is to keep puting coats on done corectley you can get a 3/5 year outdoor finish and never have to strip it off. J.
Drift on over to www.woodrich-brand.com the md80 will remove most any outdoor finish followed by an oxalic acid wash or the brightner those guys sell. I use the oxalic out of a 50lb bag but sometimes it brightnes too much.
The finish they have is very close to TWP in fact they had a twp guy onboard during the make up process. Both are build coat product the idea is to keep puting coats on done corectley you can get a 3/5 year outdoor finish and never have to strip it off. J.
Yes on the Penofin, it is an accumulating product. My personal experienece says 2 coats first year, then at 18 months, then 12 months from there on. At first it is a little more work. I personally have a 800 sqft deck on lake house, I like to rinse on saturday with a mild bleach solution, then on Sunday apply a coat of Penofin. I have found if I use a "wringing"type of mop it goes down fast(1 hour to apply and back wipe, make sure you backwipe as it will get a heavy residue(buggerish) if left. This is usually what people do not do properly, then state "they were not happy with the results. I have seen alot of people leave IPE untreated(which I do not like), I think it stays cooler to walk on, as a side note! Penofin also makes products specifically for PT wood that is great for posts etc, when trying to get a complete look on a deck. I hate to sound like a commercial, but I love this stuff.
Ipe is such a tight grained wood. Penofin works great but you have to have a couple of good days to do it on and it can't be too hot or cold. A light sanding before reapplication will bring it back to a new appearance as well. And like everyone else said, wipe after it sits for about 15 minutes. Good product...I like the smell of it. I think it is rosewood oil and some petro additives but I could be wrong.
Yes it is rosewood oil and high level of UV inhibitors. As a side note, the vertical surfaces also seem to last longer between needing coats than flats(yes this is logical).
JOhn/Deckman, thanks for the heads up I did not know this about the bleach. I guess I gigured with a coats of penofin a penetrating oil applied, that the solution would almost not touch any wood surfaces, but we learn something new everyday(also as I said I do/did use a mild solution). I found it was only necesarry when the tannins seemed to be built up on the surface. I assume the penefin wood cleaner wood be the recommended prduct for cleaning the tannins off prior to recoating the penofin?
JOhn/Deckman, thanks for the heads up I did not know this about the bleach. I guess I gigured with a coats of penofin a penetrating oil applied, that the solution would almost not touch any wood surfaces, but we learn something new everyday(also as I said I do/did use a mild solution). I found it was only necesarry when the tannins seemed to be built up on the surface. I assume the penefin wood cleaner wood be the recommended prduct for cleaning the tannins off prior to recoating the penofin?
Strip off the penofin,acid wash, two coats twp they call it wet on wet, hmmmm I love the way that sounds reminds me of West Texas and prom night, anyway twp is a build coat finish its made to melt into itself and stick to the wood.
Dont bother telling me what the twp folks say there is a twp corp 20 mi from Butler Manor they dont think its possible to do what I have been doing for the last 10 years + in fact they came out and looked at my masenranduba deck that was 4 years from its last finish with 3 coats on it and looked brand new and later said they dont recomend. The outfit does not know what they have and are too top heavey to learn.
Side note>>> that deck out back of Butler Manor has 2'' copper in the rail system coated with twp as well I built that thing right after 9 11 even as we speak not a trace of green <<< J.
Dont bother telling me what the twp folks say there is a twp corp 20 mi from Butler Manor they dont think its possible to do what I have been doing for the last 10 years + in fact they came out and looked at my masenranduba deck that was 4 years from its last finish with 3 coats on it and looked brand new and later said they dont recomend. The outfit does not know what they have and are too top heavey to learn.
Side note>>> that deck out back of Butler Manor has 2'' copper in the rail system coated with twp as well I built that thing right after 9 11 even as we speak not a trace of green <<< J.
Is this a personal deck or client's deck. If you really want it to last forever then you can do what I did, but it's expensive and time consuming! Not a quick application process at all.
When I started my research for the best wood finish products I looked to the marine industry since they have the best results and products by far. Many finely finished boats will last 5-10 years in the harshest environment possible. Very salty water with extreme UV's.
First start with CPES from Smith and CO. Steve Smith the inventor is a brilliant scientist and has developed many sealer products that are imitated by other companies. This product is the base coat. It's an epoxy resin that bonds to the wood's fibers. You do 2 coats with the second coat not fully dry when you apply a clear coat sealer. The epoxy cures after the topcoat is adhered and permanently bonds the topcoat to the wood and should never peel.
The topcoat can be any of your choosing either but again the marine industry has the best available. I wanted something with the maximum amount of UV absorbers so the wood will not fade from the harsh Colorado sun! Epifanes is considered to be the best in the biz and has been tested by Steve Smith to have the most UV absorbers of any product he has seen. I used the clear varnish which is tung oil based.
The topcoat needs to have many thin layers, anywhere from 3 - 10 coats total. I used this method on a T&G tigerwood covered porch and uncovered slotted deck. It has been about a year now and looks like it did the day it was built.
Hope this helps!
When I started my research for the best wood finish products I looked to the marine industry since they have the best results and products by far. Many finely finished boats will last 5-10 years in the harshest environment possible. Very salty water with extreme UV's.
First start with CPES from Smith and CO. Steve Smith the inventor is a brilliant scientist and has developed many sealer products that are imitated by other companies. This product is the base coat. It's an epoxy resin that bonds to the wood's fibers. You do 2 coats with the second coat not fully dry when you apply a clear coat sealer. The epoxy cures after the topcoat is adhered and permanently bonds the topcoat to the wood and should never peel.
The topcoat can be any of your choosing either but again the marine industry has the best available. I wanted something with the maximum amount of UV absorbers so the wood will not fade from the harsh Colorado sun! Epifanes is considered to be the best in the biz and has been tested by Steve Smith to have the most UV absorbers of any product he has seen. I used the clear varnish which is tung oil based.
The topcoat needs to have many thin layers, anywhere from 3 - 10 coats total. I used this method on a T&G tigerwood covered porch and uncovered slotted deck. It has been about a year now and looks like it did the day it was built.
Hope this helps!
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