All I can say is WOW.:notworthy
Leo G
Only complaint I think I will have is it is to fast. It locked in less that 2 seconds instead of the 10 they claim. 10 seconds would be really nice. Long enough to move things around to get them aligned just so. After 10 seconds I couldn't get them apart without having to put one end on a table and hit the other one, hard.
Yes, glue on one side activator on the other. Locks really quick.
I tried the thick first (I got the kit) and it locked up very quick, then I tried the gel and it locked a bit slower. But still not 10 seconds. Maybe less activator will slow things down.
I tried the thick first (I got the kit) and it locked up very quick, then I tried the gel and it locked a bit slower. But still not 10 seconds. Maybe less activator will slow things down.
You do not have to use the Activator at all. Not at all. The set up time will be around 8 to 10 minutes.
Also, the 2 oz activator and the 10 oz activator are different chemical bases. The 10 oz is acetone based, and may hurt the finish more than the 2 oz which has a base made from something that begins with an "N"..... I forget the name.
A wipe-down with denatured alcohol is recommended by Fast Cap when you use the 'spray on the outside of the joint' method... or just to clean up any overage on the outside of the joint.
I got all this directly from the company rep when I called them on this same problem.
EDIT: Oh yeah, just use the Jel all the time. Good way to buy it HERE.
Also, the 2 oz activator and the 10 oz activator are different chemical bases. The 10 oz is acetone based, and may hurt the finish more than the 2 oz which has a base made from something that begins with an "N"..... I forget the name.
A wipe-down with denatured alcohol is recommended by Fast Cap when you use the 'spray on the outside of the joint' method... or just to clean up any overage on the outside of the joint.
I got all this directly from the company rep when I called them on this same problem.
EDIT: Oh yeah, just use the Jel all the time. Good way to buy it HERE.
Great stuff! The activator in the aerosol can seems to jack up paint.
All told I really like the stuff- using for a few years
All told I really like the stuff- using for a few years
I know it sounds picky, but I honestly believe that because they label the stuff 'activator' most people are led to believe the adhesive won't work without it. Of course this is not true at all.
In fact, to me, it is a much easier to manage glue when leaving the activator out of the picture altogether.
Admittedly, I usually spray the backs of cabinet crown joints (when I can reach them) . But I almost never use it before mating the pieces of joints anymore..... except for those pesky small dead end returns... or little bullnose corner pieces. For that use, the setup speed is perfect.
But I also have a small bucket full of Collins Clips.
In fact, to me, it is a much easier to manage glue when leaving the activator out of the picture altogether.
Admittedly, I usually spray the backs of cabinet crown joints (when I can reach them) . But I almost never use it before mating the pieces of joints anymore..... except for those pesky small dead end returns... or little bullnose corner pieces. For that use, the setup speed is perfect.
But I also have a small bucket full of Collins Clips.
Hey Leo I don't know if its avalible where you are but we use Miter Bond here. Most trimmers and cabinet installers I know use it.
It works well on maple, poplar, cherry, and MDF. It does not work well on oak however. The set up time is closer to the 10 -15 sec range.
Where are you buying 2p-10 from? I have only heard of it on here.
Chad
It works well on maple, poplar, cherry, and MDF. It does not work well on oak however. The set up time is closer to the 10 -15 sec range.
Where are you buying 2p-10 from? I have only heard of it on here.
Chad
Been using the 2P-10 a lot lately. Putting miters together on a 5 1/2" molding. I'm able to get two #20 biscuits within the miter. I put yellow glue on the biscuits and the rest of the joint gets 2P-10.
I cut up the miters for the opening, biscuit and glue. I do the gluing on a pc of prefinished plywood so it doesn't stick to what your gluing on. Then I go and do the next opening. By the time you're done mitering and cutting biscuit slots it's dry enough to move. I move it to the opening and lean it up against. Then I glue the next casing. I do this for all the openings and then go back as start nailing them up. By this time you don't have to worry much about breaking the joint. The yellow glue is dry and you're not going to easily bust the joint open.
Love this stuff.
I cut up the miters for the opening, biscuit and glue. I do the gluing on a pc of prefinished plywood so it doesn't stick to what your gluing on. Then I go and do the next opening. By the time you're done mitering and cutting biscuit slots it's dry enough to move. I move it to the opening and lean it up against. Then I glue the next casing. I do this for all the openings and then go back as start nailing them up. By this time you don't have to worry much about breaking the joint. The yellow glue is dry and you're not going to easily bust the joint open.
Love this stuff.
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