Has anyone tried super stop leak. Read about on the internet and was wondering if it really works. I have a small leak I can not find in my home a/c system
drac I need to understand your objection to repairing an old unit where every practical and financially responsible attempt has been made to repair the leak "the old fashion way" has failed.
Lets say this is a four story building where the original installer had placed the condenser on the roof. He used ridged copper and let no access panels or even a schematic showing where joints are located. Now, this unit is on the second floor so the customer will be liable to pay for the repair of say three walls of paint in other apartments and their own. Correct me if I am wrong but this could run into thousands of dollars.
Or we could use a can of quick seal. Next year we may need to change a TXV or other metering device. So we get a few years of ac before we need to face the big costs
Having said all of this I have three units in this position. sealer was added three years ago. No problem.
So, I must be a hack but my customers appreciate the options.
Its like this you can by a new car every year or you can drive em till they can't be fixed. I drive a 1988 mint condition Ford F250, if tomorrow my mechanic said to fix it right will cost $750 but I can make it safe and you might get two three years out of it for $150. I don't hesitate go the 150 lets see how it goes.
So you would rip out three walls in three apartments to find a leak in a system that is ten plus years old rather than install stop leak after informing your customer of the potential risks?I read a few and had to stop. I agee with C-LOVER. You are about to create a restriction. If you really want it fixed, you first need to understand that topping off a system each spring is not required. The cooper tubing should be impenatrable, sealed, closed... Get the point!?! Follow EPA guidelines and recover your R-22, pressurize the circuit with nitrogen and spray your joints, coils, and u-bends with bubbles. Your leak can be located. Once found and repaired, replace your drier and replace the factory recommended charge and ask the ditributor how much more may be neccessary for your line set. Fix it right the first time and don't hope for these gimmicks to get you by, they'll only cost you more in the long run. If you aint qualified, find someone who is!!! This isn't a DIY job for the handyman or homeowner looking to save a buck. Did i mention the EPA?
lASTLY
Why the EPA? If the gunk seals up the system I would think they would be happy with the stuff.I read a few and had to stop. I agee with C-LOVER. You are about to create a restriction. If you really want it fixed, you first need to understand that topping off a system each spring is not required. The cooper tubing should be impenatrable, sealed, closed... Get the point!?! Follow EPA guidelines and recover your R-22, pressurize the circuit with nitrogen and spray your joints, coils, and u-bends with bubbles. Your leak can be located. Once found and repaired, replace your drier and replace the factory recommended charge and ask the ditributor how much more may be neccessary for your line set. Fix it right the first time and don't hope for these gimmicks to get you by, they'll only cost you more in the long run. If you aint qualified, find someone who is!!! This isn't a DIY job for the handyman or homeowner looking to save a buck. Did i mention the EPA?
lASTLY
I do recall an article in which some technician was hearalded as a hero for saving an institution (hospital I think) a lot of money, by using some form of gunk. The system had always leaked before.Let me put it this way: If this job was easy everybody could do (and there are some guys who think it is).
We as servicerers have the responsibility of following quality work methods
which include staying with in the mfgs install and service requirements.
Show me where Copeland endorses the use of the gunk to stop leaks and I'll agree with you.
I hate to say this but refrigeration system servicing, as practiced by a great deal of AC guys, leaves much to be desired. You will find more moisture in R22 systems used for comfort cooling then in any other sector of refrigeration. That's not me just spouting that, that's surveys conducted by HVAC NEWS< RSC Magazine. All reputable and top of the heap authorities.
So saying, since this gunk is activated by moisture are you going to chance putting it in a system that has had several other guys do a gas and go on it?
Well if you are sidding with Drac on this he said anyone who usses seal is a hack. Now I sing the praises of supper seal in the right situation. Which makes Dracula's comment very personal (He called me a Hack ) it doesn't get any personaler then that.Do you take everyones suggestions this personal? We' haven't had luck with it where i work and our service manger steers us away from the stuff ( i don't remember wahat it was called though). Do what you've got to do my friend, i wasn't trying to offend. My point was if you are able to repair it in the traditional fashion why not try to. Wasn't sure what effort the guy put into leak search before adding gunk to his system, that's all. Now chill, I apologize if you think I stepped on your toes.
If you could tell me which HVAC OEM endorses your product, I might use it on their equipment, otherwise the field tech is the guy whose is going to be blamed, no matter what. If it's not considered a 'standard practice of the industry' I'm steering away.We have sold a patented, safe and popular product for over 20 years and it works well over 95% of the time. Why would any AC service tech not at least try it on a difficult leaker unit, just to prove if it does on does not work. If it works on a tough one, then why not end the nightmare of wasting time doing searches for leaks on others?
Thanks