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#21 ·
windows good but capping slows me down,

for me it depends on what I'm replacing, I love the old woodcos with the aluminum sash balances that were popular in the sixties and early seventies, with them I can install about 10 or 12 replacement windows a day w/o capping, i come back the next day to cap all in one shot but depending if i jump the storm stops or bend around them i can only cap about 1 1/2 windows an hour, thats all w/o a helper and includes clean up. older homes with sash weights much longer as i always insulate the sash pockets with fiberglass batts and remove the weights, chains, and pulleys. Iver been considering insulating the head and sill by drilling 3/8 inch holes and injecting window and door foam. I try to size tight enough that i avoid using a head expander because if holds the window off the exterior stops and pushes the interior head stop away when i reinstall them.
 
#22 · (Edited)
we did 36 in one day pulling out aluminum and putting in DH Alside windows. Thats with an hour and a half drive there and back
with wood removal we did 65ish putting in DH Alside
This was after the storm most of the time more then one house.

before yall start talking crap, we do not put metal on the windows so that does save time.
 
#23 ·
Houston's said:
we did 36 in one day
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Not picking on you specifically, but posts like this are somewhat "non-informational". There are too many like that in this thread.

"We" could refer to two people, three dozen or more. C'mon guys, if you're going to contribute to a reference, help us all out by being more specific.

For myself, working alone, I figure 4-5 windows/day with wrapping and completely finished is pretty good. But then I'm (A) anal and (2) old.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Tinstaafl said:
Not picking on you specifically, but posts like this are somewhat "non-informational". There are too many like that in this thread.

"We" could refer to two people, three dozen or more. C'mon guys, if you're going to contribute to a reference, help us all out by being more specific.

For myself, working alone, I figure 4-5 windows/day with wrapping and completely finished is pretty good. But then I'm (A) anal and (2) old.
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This took me a week, i would have to go back and look up the numbers and it was around 72. that was with me and two helpers pulling out double pane aluminum windows had to get to most of them from off off scaffold and ladders. the glue holding the galss into the frame was very thick.
this was the longest i was ever on a jobsite.

thats with driving back and forth from baton rouge to new orleans and back 3hr total a day.

what else do you want to know.

Image

Image
 
#25 ·
these are all new to me buck ;) i work alone also al and if i do 10 windows cleaned up capped and caulked in 2-3 fairly easy days im a happy guy.
my last job were old window with sash weights and fancy perfectly painted trim on the inside.the trim on the outside was in rough shape tho,
there was a wood drip cap but no metal over it .i wound up pulling the old trim and doing a azek trim replacement.i pulled the weights and i used the foam gun to seal the back of the inside trim,then i insulated the pockets with fiber glass.thing is even if you do pull the weight pocket doors its a crapshoot as to how well you can get the glass into the cavity.
also on these windows there was a considerable gap on the top and bottom of these windows i was able to address
 
#29 ·
I try to have my men do 8 drop-ins in a day with load up time, drive time, and 100% clean up. With capping 5 to 6. I did have a man that worked for me that did 22 drop-ins in one day. I had two days going back to re-install. I let him go.

My new moto for 2009 will be; Charge for what you do and do what you charge for.
 
#30 ·
Window Blitz

We've been doing replacement windows since 1991.

A 2 man crew can easily replace 20-22 wood common openings in an 8 hr day without capping the exterior.

Our record is 20 Steel Pan Removal / Install with exterior capping, new stops & trim inside in 16 hrs (2 man crew). The Steel Pan, in my opinion, is the biggest p.i.a. requiring the most work.

Usually the first window in the tear out process is your learning window. After that, it's usually repetitive & you gain speed as you go along.
 
#31 ·
genecarp said:
VINYLE replacements around here typically go like this
1- pull interior stops, remove sash, remove parting strips, remove second sash
2- clean out opening, scrape loose paint, etc...
3- slide unit in, four screws to secure
4- reinstall stops, modify a little due to the expansion head, caulk interior
5- go outside, caulk exterior

in the day, me and another guy would do between 12 and 14 units, thats keeping a tight workplace, dropcloths , vaccumes, all old sashes to curb.

NOTE, an upcharge would be to remove old weights, and insulate pockets, that would probably reduce the day to 10 to 12 units. G
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No aluminum cladding?
 
#32 ·
recently did 19 windows , no metal , re used all trim ,was a common ranch house , me and a buddy took us 6 hours , including clean up and removal of storm windows , ive had jobs that took longer depending on the house and the style of existing windows some times make the removal , a lil more difficult , cant beat the old rope and pully , those are a breeze . , some times customer wants new interior trim, not all the same unless you compare house to house
 
#33 ·
odellconstruct said:
recently did 19 windows , no metal , re used all trim ,was a common ranch house , me and a buddy took us 6 hours , including clean up and removal of storm windows , ive had jobs that took longer depending on the house and the style of existing windows some times make the removal , a lil more difficult , cant beat the old rope and pully , those are a breeze . , some times customer wants new interior trim, not all the same unless you compare house to house
Click to expand...

rope and pully are harder for me because I extract the pullys and weights and insulate the sash pocket cavity. Ive seen some instalations where the hacks beat the pullys in with a hammer, or even left them in to hit the replacement frame. the hardest pullys to remove are the stamped steel interference fit with no screws. For me the easiest windows by far are the 1960's woodco double hung units with the thin sheet aluminum tracks and spring sash balances, these are just stapled at only the bottom and top and theres no parting strip except at the head. If you put both sashes down and pop the staples at the top you can tilt them out by the track and carry them right to the curb,
 
#34 ·
Patrick said:
i hate trailers. Im surprised you got the job, I usually get a blank stare when they see how much I charge to work on them things
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i have to agree . windows can be easy but the dam doors and when u tell them its more becouse has to gennerally be ordered . i usually tell them it doestnt matter if its a trailer or a house im doing the the same thing and sometimes more in a trailer ,
 
#35 ·
A W Smith said:
rope and pully are harder for me because I extract the pullys and weights and insulate the sash pocket cavity. Ive seen some instalations where the hacks beat the pullys in with a hammer, or even left them in to hit the replacement frame. the hardest pullys to remove are the stamped steel interference fit with no screws. For me the easiest windows by far are the 1960's woodco double hung units with the thin sheet aluminum tracks and spring sash balances, these are just stapled at only the bottom and top and theres no parting strip except at the head. If you put both sashes down and pop the staples at the top you can tilt them out by the track and carry them right to the curb,
Click to expand...
I must admit I am guilty of basing in a couple pulleys over the years if I couldnt get the screws out after a 10 minute battle. Dont you love it though when the screw hole on the window lines up exactly with the pulley hole :furious:

The only thing that makes those aluminum track windows any better is when they dont have stops on the inside.
 
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#36 ·
A W Smith said:
rope and pully are harder for me because I extract the pullys and weights and insulate the sash pocket cavity. Ive seen some instalations where the hacks beat the pullys in with a hammer, or even left them in to hit the replacement frame. the hardest pullys to remove are the stamped steel interference fit with no screws. For me the easiest windows by far are the 1960's woodco double hung units with the thin sheet aluminum tracks and spring sash balances, these are just stapled at only the bottom and top and theres no parting strip except at the head. If you put both sashes down and pop the staples at the top you can tilt them out by the track and carry them right to the curb,
Click to expand...
i take out the pulleys and insulate ..
 
#37 ·
Patrick said:
I must admit I am guilty of basing in a couple pulleys over the years if I couldnt get the screws out after a 10 minute battle. Dont you love it though when the screw hole on the window lines up exactly with the pulley hole :furious:.
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i hate that i just put the screws close to top .. i like the ones that people let go for ever makes for esy removal , the painted are a pain i use a flat head screwdriver or my mini flat bar usually the screws rip right out
 
#38 ·
Patrick said:
I must admit I am guilty of basing in a couple pulleys over the years if I couldnt get the screws out after a 10 minute battle. Dont you love it though when the screw hole on the window lines up exactly with the pulley hole :furious:

The only thing that makes those aluminum track windows any better is when they dont have stops on the inside.
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Yes Ive just moved the screw hole up to miss it. the pulley holes help to insulate though. I drop a weighted masons line and tie off to a 5 inch wide batt of fiberglass and draw it up with the string as i feed it into the sash pocket access hole.
 
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