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Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Hard to see in this pic, but basically this.

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Thanks for that. It's kind of hard to see there. But that diagonal stud is attaching to the back side of the channel that is screwed to the T-grid? Also, what did you use to attach that stud to the steel truss?

Here's the plans...
For some reason, I can't upload the other images that have the specifications spelled out. Not sure what's going on there. I have tried converting to jpg and png and it won't accept the upload.
 

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Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
-The sprinkler heads are a non-issue, the walls are not interfering with their coverage.
-One light is getting moved over 2 tiles, that's all that's needed.
An electrician will take care of moving the light over and hanging an Exit light and installing the outlets and switches.

As far as I can tell, I just need to make a couple strong walls that don't shake when someone slams the door. And skim coat 1400 sq/ft of textured drywall... my shoulders are complaining already.

Thanks to everyone who has posted so far, I really appreciate the insight as this is unfamiliar territory to me and you are really helping me a lot.
 
Thanks for that. It's kind of hard to see there. But that diagonal stud is attaching to the back side of the channel that is screwed to the T-grid? Also, what did you use to attach that stud to the steel truss?

Here's the plans...
For some reason, I can't upload the other images that have the specifications spelled out. Not sure what's going on there. I have tried converting to jpg and png and it won't accept the upload.
Existing ceiling grid to remain, accommodate for new wall.
I take that to mean full height wall, but I could be wrong. Ask the architect.
 
Check the code, if the area is over 1000 SF you will have to do a fire separation above the drop ceiling, so one of the partitions you will have to run to the roof line or do a drop ceiling to roof line separation.
 
we use grid clips,they clip on grid than screw to track,they are good so you don't mess up the grid if the wall ever gets moved,we just use them to hold the wall up until we get kickers on it, cause our code says walls and ceilings have to be independent,we usually have a spec on our print for kicker detail.to finish top of drywall off just use tear away trim,
 
Builditguy - props to this response - it was by far the best and most cohesive, all of your points make complete sense. The recommendation on the tearaway is great.

We do this. At least 2 jobs per year.

#1 Screw the top plate to the grid. Not my favorite way to do it, but if that's what the owner and the architect want, it's not my place to argue. I don't like the holes in the grid. They are thinking they can change the walls if it get rented to a new tenant. I'm just thinking, there's holes in the grid.

I do like a kicker to the top of the wall, but that is never specd. If I do it, it's on my own. Architect never details that.

#2 I use tearaway bead at the top. There are times they don't even want us to tear it off. They say to leave it. It looks fine and lets face it, it's commercial, nobody even notices.

#3 The sprinkler system will need to be addressed. It is possible all of the heads will hit where they are supposed to hit. Maybe not, but unless it is your job to do the sprinkler system, then it's not your problem.

#4 HVAC. Usually there needs to be some shifting of the ducts. Unless you are the HVAC contractor, this does not affect you.
Don't forget cold air returns. Again, unless you are the HVAC contractor, not your problem.

#5 Lights. They usually need to be shifted as well.

$6 Egress and emergency lighting will need to be checked. But....that is for the architect to figure out. The emergency lighting is also for the architect to figure out. The electrician will just put it in the location the architect specifies.

There are all kinds of arguments that this or that should be done. The reality is they hired an architect and got an inspector to sign off on the changes. It's your job to do what they want.
 
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