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jlhaslip

· Sure, I can do that...
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Using 8 foot lengths of insulated rim board and the first one is out of level by 9 /16 ths in 8 feet.
Ten corners in the plan and the ICF blocks are high on every corner because the Foundation sub used mismatched corners to complete the job. The mismatched blocks don't snap in to the other corners properly and they sit higher than the walls.

Anybody got an easy fix for this? Shim the Rim board and all the beams/joists? Double the sill plate and drypack grout under it?

Those are the first two options that come to mind after the Sub gets fired.
 
#3 ·
Kind of a tough one. You can scribe the rim to make it all plane properly but all your walls are going sag with the floor of all your corners are high. Shim it, pack it and back charge the concrete guy. Not sure if there's an "easy" way. No matter how you look at it you'll be doing something you shouldn't be doing.
 
#5 ·
I would put a laser or transit on the whole thing. If just one or two areas are high, it may be possible to notch the sill and joists in those areas. If a lot of it is out, the dry pack may be the way to go.
 
#8 · (Edited)
NJGC said:
^^^ Yep, I agree grind the high corners down and go. A diamond cup wheel will make quick work of it and you'll be framing in no time.

I'd actually have the concrete sub do it.

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Click to expand...


Try to get him to fix it, then fire him.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Communication was too late. This is the second "mess" the Sub has handed over. By the time they discovered the first one, the second one was already poured.

He has been fired, the holdback on the first one and the bill for the second one are being withheld to cover the costs, so it might be quite awhile until he gets a cheque for these two.

We are going to shim the rim, the joists and beams and then drypack when we get some heat happening. Minus 30 Celcius windchills this morning. Minus 22 C on the thermometer. Should have the heat happening later in the week. Will keep you posted.

New sub will start the next one this week. Comes with references. We'll see about that.
 
#11 ·
jlhaslip said:
Communication was too late. This is the second "mess" the Sub has handed over. By the time they discovered the first one, the second one was already poured.

He has been fired, the holdback on the first one and the bill for the second one are being withheld to cover the costs, so it might be quite awhile until he gets a cheque for these two.

We are going to shim the rim, the joists and beams and then drypack when we get some heat happening. Minus 30 Celcius windchills this morning. Minus 22 C on the thermometer. Should have the heat happening later in the week. Will keep you posted.

New sub will start the next one this week. Comes with references. We'll see about that.
Click to expand...
You'll be forever with that mess of shimming etc .........I'm telling ya the grinder will take mere minutes. Just saying. Good luck

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#13 ·
I agree with transit and grinding down high spots so long as it's not the whole stretch of the wall. Doesn't look like the height is so major that you'll loose sufficient headroom in the basement. That would be the quickest and cleanest way. I've done shimming and non shrink grout for a similar situation and it takes much longer. Good luck


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#14 · (Edited)
I'm having this EXACT issue right now, with an ICF contractor from your area.

Advantage ICF blocks by chance?

Here's my approach:

Find the highest corner and the lowest spot. If the difference is crazy, like an inch, stop the presses while someone grinds those corners down or pays you to do it. You don't want more than 1/2" difference all the way around.

Once there is less than 1/2" +/- around the whole foundation, place the mudsill and only loosely thread the nuts. Mark the joist layout on the mudsill. Shim directly under the joist marks using 1/4 and 1/8 steel shims, 2" x 8 1/2". Tighten mudsill as you go, confirming level with a laser.

Drypack using Sika 212 from the outside, then fill the inside gap with low expansion spray foam to repair the air barrier.

What a pain in the ass.
 
#16 ·
Many,many moons ago,FHB ran an article addressing this situation. They used double bottom plates,shimmed between the two plates. Of course,it probably will require using the long nuts made to extend bolts. I just call them bolt extenders,they may have a fancy name though.

If you are a online subscriber to FHB you may be able to pull up the article,it would beat all that grinding.
 
#17 ·
fjn said:
Many,many moons ago,FHB ran an article addressing this situation. They used double bottom plates,shimmed between the two plates. Of course,it probably will require using the long nuts made to extend bolts. I just call them bolt extenders,they may have a fancy name though.

If you are a online subscriber to FHB you may be able to pull up the article,it would beat all that grinding.
Click to expand...
I remember that article. It's a decent approach, but still requires drypack and foam. The cost of the extra material is probably more than the cost of grinding; my labourer can grind the high spots on a house with 200' of wall in about 30-45 mins.
 
#18 ·
fjn said:
Many,many moons ago,FHB ran an article addressing this situation. They used double bottom plates,shimmed between the two plates. Of course,it probably will require using the long nuts made to extend bolts. I just call them bolt extenders,they may have a fancy name though.

If you are a online subscriber to FHB you may be able to pull up the article,it would beat all that grinding.
Click to expand...
What a pain in the ass but once it's done then the rest of the house will go so much smoother for it.

I once did finishing in a house with an out of level foundation and a framer that didn't care enough to do anything about or even mention to the builder. Never again.
 
#19 ·
Youngin' said:
What a pain in the ass but once it's done then the rest of the house will go so much smoother for it.

I once did finishing in a house with an out of level foundation and a framer that didn't care enough to do anything about or even mention to the builder. Never again.
Click to expand...
One comment I made when trying to get my point across about how important a flat and level foundation is:

"Do you know where that is going to show up in the house?"

"Uh... the siding?"

"Yes... and the drywall, baseboard, casing and the crown molding in the master bedroom on the second floor!"
 
#20 ·
Westward said:
One comment I made when trying to get my point across about how important a flat and level foundation is:

"Do you know where that is going to show up in the house?"

"Uh... the siding?"

"Yes... and the drywall, baseboard, casing and the crown molding in the master bedroom on the second floor!"
Click to expand...


Very true ! And don't forget the "custom" cuts required for each and every rafter,both at the ridge and wall plates !:eek:
 
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