Hello, I am after a new mitre saw for general use, I am looking at the DWS777 but have seen the DWS774 for £110 cheaper, both have XPS and a 216mm blade. The 774 is 1400w and the 777 is 1800w. Will I see much difference? I am trying to buy one saw that will last not another one a year or two down the line. Thanks in advance
Mitre saw advice
Jimmmy19
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Hello, I am after a new mitre saw for general use, I am looking at the DWS777 but have seen the DWS774 for £110 cheaper, both have XPS and a 216mm blade. The 774 is 1400w and the 777 is 1800w. Will I see much difference? I am trying to buy one saw that will last not another one a year or two down the line. Thanks in advance
Most of the time a smaller single miter saw is more then enough and not having to lug the extra weight around is a welcome relief.
BUT!
Theres always that one job that you need a bigger saw to handle the lumber or the one cut that a compound miter becomes priceless for.
If you are restricted to only a single saw then it has to handle the worst case. If you can have a second saw then the smaller one can handle the bulk of your needs. Having an easy to move saw stand is also something to consider.
BUT!
Theres always that one job that you need a bigger saw to handle the lumber or the one cut that a compound miter becomes priceless for.
If you are restricted to only a single saw then it has to handle the worst case. If you can have a second saw then the smaller one can handle the bulk of your needs. Having an easy to move saw stand is also something to consider.
Form follows function...
Are you just cutting square ended studs? Roof joists?
or just light trim?
Are you going to have to lug it up five flights of stairs or just wheel it out of the truck?
Sometimes the best choice is to get a cheap one and see how it works for your situation. (profanity and education frequently go together
Once you know exactly how your going to use it then the choice will become a lot clearer.
Are you just cutting square ended studs? Roof joists?
or just light trim?
Are you going to have to lug it up five flights of stairs or just wheel it out of the truck?
Sometimes the best choice is to get a cheap one and see how it works for your situation. (profanity and education frequently go together
Once you know exactly how your going to use it then the choice will become a lot clearer.
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I have the 10" Dewalt sliding compound miter saw (should've bought the 12", got it when I first started). It has been a life saver as I cut a lot of pre-finished kitchen trim, large fillers and whatnot. I also keep a small 8" saw that I use for basic primed trim. Only carry the larger saw out of the trailer when I have to. Having both at hand has worked best for us, but again its all about what you need to do with it.
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An eight inch will require you most molding on the flat which I find to significantly slower. Sighting the cut is more difficult and it takes more time to mark the work appropriately. If your building decks you need a 12 inch saw. Otherwise a double compound 10 inch would be the minimum a professional carpenter would want to have as their only saw.
I have the dewalt single bevel 10 for a carry saw that is use for flooring and cutting 3 inch molding and base shoe and a 12 inch scms for everything else.
I have the dewalt single bevel 10 for a carry saw that is use for flooring and cutting 3 inch molding and base shoe and a 12 inch scms for everything else.
I have a 10" single bevel that I use for trim. 12" slider for framing. 10" beater for flooring. And a 12" single bevel for general use and big trim.
Make sure you buy quality blades for specific task you will be doing. 12" blades are far more costly than 10's. No matter what size saw you get, make sure your budget includes a few blades.
Make sure you buy quality blades for specific task you will be doing. 12" blades are far more costly than 10's. No matter what size saw you get, make sure your budget includes a few blades.
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I didnt say it couldnt be done or ne done well. I just think its slower.
The advantage to the 8 can be less blade wobble so that kerf is smaller an more precisely in line with the blade. To me this is a pretty small advantage. Theres no substitute for an experienced eye.
Blade wobble sounds like problem...I believe the word , you're looking for is deflection....
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Thanks.
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