hi,what is the best ,easiest,cleaness way to cut vinyl window fins?thanks jvl
cutting window fins
jvl
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hi,what is the best ,easiest,cleaness way to cut vinyl window fins?thanks jvl
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I just buy the right ones.
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I guess the big question is, why would you want to? If you're talking about the fins that are integral to new-construction vinyl windows, they're there for a reason, and cutting them will both void the warranty and create a waterproofing/flashing issue.
window
what is the differance between a replacement window and a new construction window,the fins.the manufacturer says that you can cut the fins off if you like.this is a double hung window depth 31/2 and a single hung is 25/8.this might present a problem with appearance that the double hung might extend to far beyond siding.i like to figure everthing out before starting.the opening is plume and level and square along with watreproof membrane flashing along with z flashing.there are a number of different ways to cut this vinyl.i find it rather odd that some people respond without thinking.jvl
what is the differance between a replacement window and a new construction window,the fins.the manufacturer says that you can cut the fins off if you like.this is a double hung window depth 31/2 and a single hung is 25/8.this might present a problem with appearance that the double hung might extend to far beyond siding.i like to figure everthing out before starting.the opening is plume and level and square along with watreproof membrane flashing along with z flashing.there are a number of different ways to cut this vinyl.i find it rather odd that some people respond without thinking.jvl
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hmmm...see, and there I was finding it rather odd that someone would post a question like "what is the best ,easiest,cleaness way to cut vinyl window fins" without giving any specifics that would allow a proper answer. I also find it odd that you want to butcher up a new construction window and use it for a purpose other than what it's intend for, especially when you already know it's not going to fit correctly (per your statements). Lastly "the fins" aren't the "only difference" between a new construction window and a replacement window- and any "manufacturer" that told you to cut the fins off and stick the window in the hole isn't someone I'd want to be installing windows from.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Nah- he's going to pull the stops out, slide the window out from the inside until the inside is flush, and then caulk the crap out of what hangs out beyond the frame- it'll look like a custom job!
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On 90% of the windows and patio doors we install we use a utility knife to cut the fins. They charge $7.00 per window at the factory to cut them off the same way we do.
window fins
the manufacturer is jeld wen located in el cajon calif.they manufacture the window in a mold that has a fin and if you want a replacement window then they will cut the fin off for you for $20.00.the siding of the house is cedar the extends off of the studs 1".i will extend the window out from the trimmer 3/4" so that the trim will be 1/4" beyond the window.the manufacturer also agrees that if the window protrudes out from the siding too far that water flow problems can occur.when i asked the simple question about cutting the fin i thought someone had a easier way to cut the fin like a plastic knife used on plexiglass,fein tool attachment,makita trim saw,bosch jamb/trimm cutter,recipecating saw or grinder with diamond blade attachment.dont want to use to much rpm,maybe a rotozip saw?
the manufacturer is jeld wen located in el cajon calif.they manufacture the window in a mold that has a fin and if you want a replacement window then they will cut the fin off for you for $20.00.the siding of the house is cedar the extends off of the studs 1".i will extend the window out from the trimmer 3/4" so that the trim will be 1/4" beyond the window.the manufacturer also agrees that if the window protrudes out from the siding too far that water flow problems can occur.when i asked the simple question about cutting the fin i thought someone had a easier way to cut the fin like a plastic knife used on plexiglass,fein tool attachment,makita trim saw,bosch jamb/trimm cutter,recipecating saw or grinder with diamond blade attachment.dont want to use to much rpm,maybe a rotozip saw?
To answer your question, a utility knife will do just fine.
But I would recommend against installing windows the way you desrcibed. There is a correct procedure to install a window with nail fins and a correct procedure to install an insert window. You described neither and could be headed for trouble.
Check your manufacturer's installation instructions.
Good Luck
Dave
But I would recommend against installing windows the way you desrcibed. There is a correct procedure to install a window with nail fins and a correct procedure to install an insert window. You described neither and could be headed for trouble.
Check your manufacturer's installation instructions.
Good Luck
Dave
window fins
david c i have both the installation instruction for both new construction and replacement windows.the flashing methods are the same and the installation using stainless steel pan head srews 2" instead of 11/2" nails are the variation.i am installing a 2"false sill at a angle of 12% also z flashing at the top and bottom,i am using a waterproof membrane around the face of the exterior and liner on the inside of the 2x4 frame.all frame members are treated 2xs along with azek trim.interior will have a extension w/stool and apron.1/4 round trim where the dryway meets the jambs.careful attention is being made for the membrane to be wrapped properly ,overlapping correctly and caulking around window but not at bottom in order to let mositure drain.it is a cedar shake house with 30 lb paper with lap siding as sheathing.1940s house.please forward any additional information thanks jvl
david c i have both the installation instruction for both new construction and replacement windows.the flashing methods are the same and the installation using stainless steel pan head srews 2" instead of 11/2" nails are the variation.i am installing a 2"false sill at a angle of 12% also z flashing at the top and bottom,i am using a waterproof membrane around the face of the exterior and liner on the inside of the 2x4 frame.all frame members are treated 2xs along with azek trim.interior will have a extension w/stool and apron.1/4 round trim where the dryway meets the jambs.careful attention is being made for the membrane to be wrapped properly ,overlapping correctly and caulking around window but not at bottom in order to let mositure drain.it is a cedar shake house with 30 lb paper with lap siding as sheathing.1940s house.please forward any additional information thanks jvl
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JVL
I think you haven't worked with retro-fit replacement windows because if you have you would know that the fin is removed to install the window in the same location on the exterior as it is now. Jeldwen vinyl frames have three air chambers and two of these need to be in the wall for the frame to work as designed.
The Jeldwen window is the same width as the two wood windows that make up the old double hung. You would remove the stop on the inside and center to get the old windows out. The new window is placed into the opening from the inside of the house and the inside stop trim is re-used after caulking. Caulking is applied to the outside stop before window installation to seal the window and a piece of quarter round trim is installed at the sill if needed.
I think you haven't worked with retro-fit replacement windows because if you have you would know that the fin is removed to install the window in the same location on the exterior as it is now. Jeldwen vinyl frames have three air chambers and two of these need to be in the wall for the frame to work as designed.
The Jeldwen window is the same width as the two wood windows that make up the old double hung. You would remove the stop on the inside and center to get the old windows out. The new window is placed into the opening from the inside of the house and the inside stop trim is re-used after caulking. Caulking is applied to the outside stop before window installation to seal the window and a piece of quarter round trim is installed at the sill if needed.
window fin
the old wood window is actually 31/2 in width plus trim of 3/4 attached to jamb that extends past the framing.the old window was all one piece sill,jambs,trim.theold window was termited out in the sill and jambs so the whole window plus framing wwas removed along with the rough sill and trimmers.granted before installing window it needs to be caulked and the extension jamb would serve as the interior stop and be caulked.exterior thecaulking around the window would be done, along with the trim coming up flush to the window and caulked again.i guess the trim would be your exterior stop?jvl
the old wood window is actually 31/2 in width plus trim of 3/4 attached to jamb that extends past the framing.the old window was all one piece sill,jambs,trim.theold window was termited out in the sill and jambs so the whole window plus framing wwas removed along with the rough sill and trimmers.granted before installing window it needs to be caulked and the extension jamb would serve as the interior stop and be caulked.exterior thecaulking around the window would be done, along with the trim coming up flush to the window and caulked again.i guess the trim would be your exterior stop?jvl
The alside windows I used last time had "snap-in" fins. They deliver all the fins separately and you have to cut them to fit and snap them in a channel, then drill holes for your nails or drive nails through. Probably not as waterproof a method as others, but it gets flashed anyway.
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