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large windows on second floors or higher.

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ApgarNJ

· Dan
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey guys just wondering how you guys go about lifting and installing a large window unit (not new construction really) but for renovations where we are taking out old windows and putting in the entire unit. I have always struggled on the jobs where it's not really a big enough job to get a lift in there, or the jobsite is too small to get a lift in there. we normally have two ext ladders close to each other and then take out any sashes that can be taken out, and slide it up the ladder, have a guy up in the opening to help put it in place as the guys on the ladders below lift and install it.

is this how alot of you guys are doing it?

i have a job coming up in the next week or so where i've already installed a few on this guys house but he's doing it in stages. we have a large 8' wide x 5' high marvin unit, the center is a big picture window that doesn't come out, and the sides are casements that we can take out. well the last round we had the same window to put in and it was a real bear to get up and in place. it was very heavy to get up those ladders and i felt like we were close to losing it a few times, and with a 2200 dollar window, i'd rather not drop it.

I wish someone made a device that helps lift windows up to second floors where the jobsite is tight. if it wasn't a picture unit in the middle, it wouldn't be that bad.

just looking for techniques that you guys use in these situations, maybe something i hadn't already thought of.

i'd hate to setup pumpjacks just for each window location. thank god there is only one more large picture window unit to put in this time on the second floor.

thanks!
 
#3 ·
We use pump jacks. They take roughly 5-10 mins to set up, surely you can spare that for a $2,000 window, We also have 12' poles that we will use sometimes just for doing bays and bows.
 
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#5 ·
We replaced an existing 3rd floor loft double casement with a 5' diameter round window when we retrimed and sided this house.

I didn't feel like renting a lift either, so we threaded 3/8" eyelets into the frame and hoisted it up with ropes from the inside. We finished installing it from extension ladders & walk boards.

Image

Image
 
#6 ·
Had an 8' unit once, on the back
of the house, yard fenced iron
over brick, with 3' gates.
No access for machinery.
We stair-stepped half jacks,
so that we could stage it.
Never had to lift it more than
4' at a time, and felt better
knowing it was only a 4' drop
if....


"Oh, but I was so much older then,
I'm younger than that now....":clap::laughing:

Sure, right!
Stuff like that is why I'm
beat up now. :laughing:
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
MJW said:
This is what we use along with a work basket/cage.
Click to expand...
i know that's the easier way but not when there is a steep hill and a thick set of woods all the way across the front of the house. no way to get a machine in there.

someday maybe i'll own one. also, for existing structures, people don't want their lawns torn up or rutted just for new window jobs.

i'll try the pump jack route on this job. and use the shorter poles.

thanks guys!
 
#14 ·
magic

I stand right beside the window ,then i put on my ruby slipper's click my heel's together and repeat I WISH IT WAS IN, I WISH IT WAS IN!!!
 
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#16 ·
Brute strength like ApgarNJ and remove any units we can.
If it's a bay I screw a piece of 1x4 scrap about a foot long to each corner near the top side of the new window.
When we get it in the opening we turn the 1x4 so they support weight of the window against the inside of the wall then adjust it in the opening.
Fasten the window,remove the 1x4 and install the casing.
 
#17 ·
If there is access from inside to get the window up the stairs and into the room it has to go in, I install the windows from the inside out. Fold over the nail fins, or if they are the kind you have to install, leave them off untill you get the unit up into the RO. Depending on the size of the unit, I will drill 2-4 pilot holes in an easily hideable spot in the jamb to run temporary screws to hold the unit in place. Then, work the unit to where it has to go one side at at a time. If the flankers are removed, one guy on each side can hold the unit in place to stabilize it while you fasten it.
This is all figuring you have a large enough stairway to get it up the stairs, otherwise pump jacks.
 
#18 ·
The bigest residential window we install would be a 120 x 60 picture in a vinyl frame. We usally set two extension ladders over the window with pullys, ropes and suction cups and lift the widow to the proper height then pull it into the opening with suction cups and install away.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
tim, i've done that in the past but with these marvin units on this job, they have a factory applied alum brickmold casing, we setup pump jacks today and installed the one big window upstairs with a slightly taller but same width one going in tomorrow. the pump jacks only took a short time to setup and worked great for other things. we have cedar siding to patch around it tomorrow. I'll use pump jacks whenever possible to set them up from now on. never the ladder and grunt method again.
the stairway on this house was way too tight to ever get an 8ft x 5' high unit up.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
easy sider said:
The bigest residential window we install would be a 120 x 60 picture in a vinyl frame. We usally set two extension ladders over the window with pullys, ropes and suction cups and lift the widow to the proper height then pull it into the opening with suction cups and install away.
Click to expand...
this one had to have weighed the better part of 400-450 lbs. the frames are thick and heavy on those marvin casements along with the metal trim, and thick glass. it's crazy how heavy they are.

i wouldn't trust this expensive window with suction cups.
 
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ApgarNJ
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