Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

2x6 exterior walls - building corners?

1 reading
Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
M

MHMConstruction

· Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
OK, question #2 on the differences between framing w/ 2x4s or 6s

How do you build corners for 2x6 walls?? when you build corners for 2x4 walls, you have that extra 1" nailer for your drywall later on. what about 2x6s??

Many thanks for the help framer folk!

MHM :party:
 
#2 ·
instead of using blocking to create a tripled up stud like you would with 2x4s, you create an L shape with the 2x6s on the wall that runs long (not sure how to explain it.) Then when you butt the other wall into it, you end up with 1-1/2" for drywall nailing because of the thichkess of the end stud.
 
#5 · (Edited)
2x6 Corners

For my 2x6 walls, I build an L on the outside perimeter corner and add a 2x4 to the inside "nailer" corner. This allows me to fill the resulting "U"-shaped corner with insulation and create an insulated corner. Where I live, insulation is a premium, and with the cost of heating fuel/propane here, that make a precious commodity an asset to my business! I build as "Green" as possible but within the limits of my customers. Some of them just don't care! However, for the most part, I just do it, because I include the extra labor in my estimates, anyway.

I use LOW Expanding foam, and the result is that all members end up glued together, by the foam, and are seismic and severe weather compliant. my 2x4's are set in 3/4" to the interior wall so the adjoining wall can be face nailed to the edge of the adjoining 2x4 and "lock" the corner and create a box, which essentially becomes a column corner.
 
#6 ·
DEAD_ONConst said:
For my 2x6 walls, I build an L on the outside perimeter corner and add a 2x4 to the inside "nailer" corner. This allows me to fill the resulting "U"-shaped corner with insulation and create an insulated corner. Where I live, insulation is a premium, and with the cost of heating fuel/propane here, that make a precious commodity an asset to my business! I build as "Green" as possible but within the limits of my customers. Some of them just don't care! However, for the most part, I just do it, because I include the extra labor in my estimates, anyway.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you mean, You can insulate an L corner without a seperate 2x4. We always overlap the sheeting on corners so that the walls (exterior) are held together with 10 or so nails along the inside on the L corner,, Then with about 30-40 staples on the exterior overlapping sheeting. I'm in Calgary canada So no hurricanes but tornadoes happen in this vicinity. 2 touched down last year within 30 miles of here.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Your structure ALWAYS goes on the exterior. If you look at WallMaxx's Diagram, notice the two "stacked" 2x6s on the inside corner? In my design, the stacked 2x6 is moved to the exterior wall, and a 2x4, nailed on edge to the moved, "exterior" 2x6, creating a U. The UN-nailed edges of the 2x4 and 2x6 is now your INSIDE corner for nailing up interior drywall. Now you have created a "column" that is filled with insulation, and therefore about 33% more efficient than a standard California corner, and equally as strong.
 
#8 ·
Dead on im not sure i get what your saying. QAre you saying that instead of the way malmax's picture depicts you would put the 2x6 on its flat to the outside, and a 2x4 to the inside? Looks like a wasted step to get it structural, considering that end stud on the wall is within the 16" or whatver your using for stud centers. And as to the 2 2x6s being stacked that has few structural connotations(spl) to it at all. It is there so that when the drywallers are running thier boards they have something to nail to at the end. In reality you ar adding an extra stud so it should not matter structurally whether or not it is on the inside or outside.
 
#19 ·
I build mine like a ladder. I Use the end stud and the first stud on layout and put five or more blocks between them, depending on wall height. It allows you to stuff allot of insulation into the corner, gives you more to nail sheeting to, making a stronger corner and its convenient to have a ladder in every corner. I always built California corners, till I saw a guy in kansas city do it this way. I tried it out, was happy with the result and so was my builder. This is how I have been doing it ever since.
 
#20 ·
Corner Framing Study

I happened upon this topic and even though it is a bit dated it is still very relevant. I've been struggling with the best way to frame ext. corners on 2x6 walls so I've put together a matrix with a number of methods.

Image


A high resolution PDF file is here:

http://design.medeek.com/resources/framing/FRAMING_CORNERS.pdf

I do a lot of designs with hardiplank siding so good backing for the trim and siding is important to me. Up until now I've been specifying Detail 2 a lot, but now I'm looking at Detail 5 and it seems to offer the same advantages and more. Any thoughts?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
About this Discussion
24 Replies
20 Participants
Last post:
rob3rthardt
Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum
posts
3.6M
members
169K
Since
2003
A forum community dedicated to professional construction and remodeling contractors. Come join the discussion about the industry, trades, safety, projects, finishing, tools, machinery, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Tools & Equipment Business Painting & Finish Work Decks & Fencing