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I need help terminating Cat5e phone blocks

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Magnettica

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I never really asked or learned how to wire these big punch down blocks before so I'm going to ask here. What do I need to know about them as far as hooking them up? I always run homeruns to each location that is required for a project, but then when I get to doing the final hookups someone else always ends up finishing the hookup at the block itself.

In electrical terms (feed, feed out, line, load, etc) could I have some explanation as to properly terminating all of my homeruns so I could finally complete an entire low voltage cat5e communication/ internet system?

Thanks.

By the way, I have no problem terminating individual modules at each location, I just don't understand how all the blocks get interconnected so all 4 pairs of conductors can be used at each of the locations.

(and yes, I am embarrassed that I don't already know this, so that's why I'm asking)
 
#2 ·
66 or 110 block, or something else?

Hopefully they are not using a 66.

For what you are doing, running the same 4 pairs/lines to all stations. There a few ways to do this with a 110 block, one called daisy chaining another is called block to bridge. And that is something that would be very hard to explain here, and would take some pictures to better understand what was said.

Do a web search on daisy chaining and block to bridge for 110 block. Also Leviton has a few documents that explain it briefly, but are kind of hard to understand.
 
#5 ·
What he said, what is this for? A network connection or a telephone connection?

You can use it for either/or. There is some things can you do at the closet to make it easy to change from one to the other.
 
#6 ·
To get the true system you must forget about the daisy chain method. Every wire to everyplace has to be a homerun. Make sure you are diligent about labeling where each of your wires are going. Run everything into a main Leviton low voltage box and you can take care of everything from there. The boxes come empty and you will have to buy all the individual splitters and junctions to configur the setup that you want.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I assumed he wanted to know how to wire blocks for phone lines, since that was what the title said.

For residential I wouldn't use a 110 block, and use the modules from Leviton, etc. in a structured wiring box. This way it is easy to change from a phone line to a network connection, just plug and play. And the phone modules from Leviton, etc. are what you might say as having a built in daisy chain/bridge. All the homes we build get the large box with vented cover riser and surge outlets so we can put the cable/dsl modem and router in the box.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Most of the applications I come across are for home networking and telephone connections. The cat5e can be used for both, no?? I like to run homeruns of CAT5e and RG6 to each and every location in the event they want either cable or dsl internet connections. There's just so much stuff out there and choices I try to cover all the bases. I'm just not sure about making the Local Area Networking connections on the block.
 
#11 ·
When terminating at the jack, you can use a cat5e RJ45 type keystone jack.

The jack should be labelled as to which wires go where in the block and give you the choice of 568A or 568B. Stick with 568A. Just make sure you use the same wiring standard on each end.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I believe I have a much better understanding now than I did just 5 minutes ago! Thanks, that link definitely helped. Now I understand the bridging.

So, the pic I posted of the 66-block is rigged because there are no bridging clips, just plain ole category 5 jumpers. Right?


Also, and thanks again for all of your insight - how would I go about attaching several cat5e lines if I only had a category 1 type cable supplied from the phone company?
 
#15 ·
Magnettica said:
So, the pic I posted of the 66-block is rigged because there are no bridging clips, just plain ole category 5 jumpers. Right?
Click to expand...
Appears so.


Magnettica said:
Also, and thanks again for all of your insight - how would I go about attaching several cat5e lines if I only had a category 1 type cable supplied from the phone company?
Click to expand...
With the 66 block? Strip a long piece of copper wire as long as the number of terminal rows you need. Punch it down the second column, tying the first two columns all together. Do the same for the third column.

Then for the incoming pair, punch one wire on the first row/first column, punch the other wire on the first row/forth column. Then repeat with all the cat5 lines going down in rows.

A 66-block is designed more as a demarcation point than a distribution device, but unless you want to buy a BIX block, use what you have.
 
#17 ·
BuildingHomes said:
Appears so.

With the 66 block? Strip a long piece of copper wire as long as the number of terminal rows you need. Punch it down the second column, tying the first two columns all together. Do the same for the third column.

Then for the incoming pair, punch one wire on the first row/first column, punch the other wire on the first row/forth column. Then repeat with all the cat5 lines going down in rows.
Click to expand...
Excuse me??????????? Some how the visualization of the above just is not happening here.:blink:

Would you please explain this in different words??? Something got lost is translation.:eek:

Thanks,

Les
 
#19 ·
I realize I described it incorrectly above.

Hopefully the attached image helps.

You can add the other pairs of wires from the cat5 in there too, but you won't have anything attached to them if it's just going to be a 1-line house.

Another way to do it would be to put all the phoneruns on the other side and then bridge them.

You can get some details from here. http://www.homephonewiring.com/add-line3.html
 

Attachments

#20 ·
BuildingHomes said:
I realize I described it incorrectly above.

Hopefully the attached image helps.

You can add the other pairs of wires from the cat5 in there too, but you won't have anything attached to them if it's just going to be a 1-line house.

Another way to do it would be to put all the phoneruns on the other side and then bridge them.

You can get some details from here. http://www.homephonewiring.com/add-line3.html
Click to expand...

Not trying to step on toes here but please consider the following and a different view point.

I kinda figured that is what you were trying to say. However I disagree with the wiring plan. It will great limit any future changes.

I don't have time to draw as good so I hope my words with do the job.

First thing to be said is never say "strip the wire" since this can mean down to bare copper with can and will cause shorts is the worst way.

Second ALL pairs from ALL the home runs should be punched down on the right side of the block. Blu/Wht Org/Wht Grn/Wht Brn/Wht Takes an extra 5 minutes and will save huge in the future.

Then remove the outer sheath from in incoming cable and jump the pairs from the first to the fifth to the ninth paired rows.

If you have a second line it will be on the orange pair and just do the same.

Yes you will have to use bridge clips but when it ever comes time to troubleshoot a problem you will appreicate this wiring layout.

Now of course you could be like the Sparky on a $750,000.00 house who only hooked up the blue pair at each wall jack and wirenutted everything beside his electrical panel. When asked (by me) why he would do this he said. "That way when the homeowner wants a second line we get the service call to re-wire all the wall plates.:censored::censored:

Again not trying to beat anyone up here, just explaining another way to do the job.

Have a good day.

Les
 
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