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Usually closer to a full day than a half day for me as well, once prep and and clean up time are included. I've seen and had guys do in in a half day but they are not doing the tilers any favours. IMO a couple of hours extra to get it done right pay dividends on ease and quality of work to follow.
 
Does anyone use Certainteed Diamondback? It appears to be the most popular tile backer for showers I see locally. It's really similar to DensSheild.
 
Usually closer to a full day than a half day for me as well, once prep and and clean up time are included. I've seen and had guys do in in a half day but they are not doing the tilers any favours. IMO a couple of hours extra to get it done right pay dividends on ease and quality of work to follow.

I fully agree. I'll shim out the tile backer, and shave down studs if I have to, to make a flat surface. I like to float out any dips in the wall with leftover thinset at the end of the day too.
 
Read through all 4 pages, and not any mention of hot mop pans.....does any one else use them? or am I that old school?

Also, I mesh tape and mortar my corners/joints, then when dry, red seal with mesh tape again. seems to help my sleep patterns, lol

Still using backerboard. double layered 1/4" with staggered joints for bigger showers.......Although it seems pretty solid, I need to look into these other systems you guys mentioned......
 
Read through all 4 pages, and not any mention of hot mop pans.....does any one else use them? or am I that old school?

Also, I mesh tape and mortar my corners/joints, then when dry, red seal with mesh tape again. seems to help my sleep patterns, lol

Still using backerboard. double layered 1/4" with staggered joints for bigger showers.......Although it seems pretty solid, I need to look into these other systems you guys mentioned......
Pretty much just as soCal thing as far as I can tell.
 
Read through all 4 pages, and not any mention of hot mop pans.....does any one else use them? or am I that old school?

Also, I mesh tape and mortar my corners/joints, then when dry, red seal with mesh tape again. seems to help my sleep patterns, lol

Still using backerboard. double layered 1/4" with staggered joints for bigger showers.......Although it seems pretty solid, I need to look into these other systems you guys mentioned......
Seems like a lot of extra work for no real return.
 
Pretty much just as soCal thing as far as I can tell.
Far as I can tell, too. 98 - what's the business deal with hot mop, exactly? Are there guys who just come in and do the hot mop part of it? Or does every plumber have the setup? It doesn't exist up here, period. If I wanted a pan hot-mopped, I'd have to ask a roofer to come do it.
 
Read through all 4 pages, and not any mention of hot mop pans.....does any one else use them? or am I that old school?

Also, I mesh tape and mortar my corners/joints, then when dry, red seal with mesh tape again. seems to help my sleep patterns, lol

Still using backerboard. double layered 1/4" with staggered joints for bigger showers.......Although it seems pretty solid, I need to look into these other systems you guys mentioned......
All of that buildup in the corners/joints would just piss me off. What is the purpose of double layering the cbu when a single layer of 1/2" is plenty sturdy for tile? All of that work, you may as well mud the thing. It's funny how we become creatures of habit who do things just cause we have always done it that way even when another solution becomes available lol.
 
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lol, yes. I am a creature of habit. kind of why im intrigued to learn faster, better ways.

There is a guy that just does the hot mop. drives around with a little trailer that heats it via propane and comes to the job just to do the pan. (about $250 for a 4x4 shower floor with a corner bench)

and the reason for the doubled up 1/4" is so that I can still finish out to 1/2"....see if i can explain it without pictures....

so when he does the hot mop, he builds it up the wall about 10" or so. its layered tar paper and tar, so ends up about a 1/4" thick at the corner (and up the wall) I bring my first layer down to the top of his layers to level it. then the second layer of 1/4" comes down to the concrete/dry packed portland cement sand mix, and it all gets mortared, taped, and red sealed from there.....

i could do 1/2", but what about the base with the tar and paper thickness? Id love to do a shower with someone else to learn a different way.......

And before the nay sayers come in.....have done probably 30-40 of them this way. And just checked out my oldest one (about 12 years old) the other day and still holding up just fine. (was my mother in laws shower)
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
lol, yes. I am a creature of habit. kind of why im intrigued to learn faster, better ways.

There is a guy that just does the hot mop. drives around with a little trailer that heats it via propane and comes to the job just to do the pan. (about $250 for a 4x4 shower floor with a corner bench)

and the reason for the doubled up 1/4" is so that I can still finish out to 1/2"....see if i can explain it without pictures....

so when he does the hot mop, he builds it up the wall about 10" or so. its layered tar paper and tar, so ends up about a 1/4" thick at the corner (and up the wall) I bring my first layer down to the top of his layers to level it. then the second layer of 1/4" comes down to the concrete/dry packed portland cement sand mix, and it all gets mortared, taped, and red sealed from there.....

i could do 1/2", but what about the base with the tar and paper thickness? Id love to do a shower with someone else to learn a different way.......

And before the nay sayers come in.....have done probably 30-40 of them this way. And just checked out my oldest one (about 12 years old) the other day and still holding up just fine. (was my mother in laws shower)
Its hard to break out of the industry standards for an area, plus break methods you've used for a long time. I think its time for you to be a pioneer on this one boss.

Anytime I look around the general scope of trades and see others using a different technique than me I can usually assume its not because mine is faster....or better.
 
and the reason for the doubled up 1/4" is so that I can still finish out to 1/2"....see if i can explain it without pictures....

so when he does the hot mop, he builds it up the wall about 10" or so. its layered tar paper and tar, so ends up about a 1/4" thick at the corner (and up the wall) I bring my first layer down to the top of his layers to level it. then the second layer of 1/4" comes down to the concrete/dry packed portland cement sand mix, and it all gets mortared, taped, and red sealed from there.....

i could do 1/2", but what about the base with the tar and paper thickness? Id love to do a shower with someone else to learn a different

You could always fur your walls out 1/4" with wood lath, then use 1/2" board. That will keep your board from flaring out at the bottom.
 
Far as I can tell, too. 98 - what's the business deal with hot mop, exactly? Are there guys who just come in and do the hot mop part of it? Or does every plumber have the setup? It doesn't exist up here, period. If I wanted a pan hot-mopped, I'd have to ask a roofer to come do it.
The ones I've seen done had the plumbers use a hotmopping sub, think they might be roofers who have the setup for hotmopping but have refined their skills to include doing interior work.

One thing about hot mopping, if done right there is no question that it is waterproof.
 
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