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........Question for you guys who hand frame roofs, The ridge beam... where it's supported on either end... can those ends be supported with just built up 2x wall studs? Have you run into a situation where your posts stuck out farther than the wall stud depth? Do you fur out the wall or box out the post?
Mac
It has been rare for me, but have always been able to make boxing it out
look "intentional".

The problem here is gonna be if he can't work a post into the end that
ties in to the existing house.
It's going to take more understanding of carrying capacity than
I've seen here, if he needs another beam or header to pick up that end.
I just don't see enough understanding of the forces involved,
or even what really holds a house together.
No offense Turnkey but you're in way over your head, and this stuff does matter.
As usual Max nice drawings, I haven't taken time to calculate the depth of the beam, did you? (would have SWAGed 16")
Even with your "prompt and cheerful free drafting service"
I don't think Turnkey is seeing the whole picture here,
I'd hate to see him take your example as gospel
if you only intended it as an illustration of principles.
BTW back here I wouldn't need the collar ties if I have hangers,
unless it was much steeper/taller.
 
Hey guys well I appreciate all the help on the other framing post that I have. I am currently working on a job and we are debating stick framing a roof or buying trusses. The debate is over how to stick frame it and still provide the support to keep from pushing out the walls. No problem with trusses but they want a ton to give me a custom ridge height to match existing roof since it is like a 6.75 on 12 and their computers wont except the input. So I can stick frame it in a little more time but get the result that I want without the extra cost but I dont know how to incorporate the colar ties. I am going to attach a pic of the truss. The pitch is different since this is just an example of what the truss would look like. Would I build the same way as trusses just with wooden gussets or an entirely different way? Thanks guys
I've got lots of pictures. :eek:
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/11350387/166819146.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/11350387/164184902.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9645221/140715187.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9645221/140715179.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9645221/144097366.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9645221/144097369.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/9645221/144097377.jpg

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL293/2163851/4541023/118330358.jpg

These next few pictures or from the frame we are on
http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler/Bernies/photo#5141241791686607122 You can click through the pictures there to see more pics and I can get some from inside when we get back out there. Snowing today.

I would recommend stick framing that section of roof. It is easy to do and will give you more options for interior framing.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Hey guys,
Well I see in a post that some may think that I am in over my head. I have a family to raise and support because my wife is a stay at home mom. I dont know about you guys but I may have not done a lot of house framing to learn about structural ridges and my dad who taught me about framing and remodeling didnt really get into complex framing because he stayed busy without having to get into it. I am trying to get into the work myself though because I can do the framing where he is getting older and doesnt want to do it. I ask you guys about the whole vaulted ceiling to learn what I may not know and to understand it as well. I didnt understand the drawing at first. Then as I thought about it and talked to the guy at structural products I realized what a ridge beam is. I always thought that a ridge board was the same and didnt realize there were 2 different things. I see why you are yall are saying to use 2x12's now. 1 board to cut per rafter instead of having to cut 2 different boards a whole bunch. The pics that Timuhler posted have definately helped in the understanding. It put Wallmaxx's drawing into perspective and in real life for me. I hope to one day maybe not right now but to be able to get on here and answer others questions about the same type subjects and give them a respectful answer. I appreciate all you guys do in helping me out on these issues and is definatley helping me out in the estimation stage as well as in the actual framing stages. I can normally ask my dad most of this and he will know but he is in Florida waiting on his mom to pass and then heading on a cruise so you guys were the only other choice to ask besides going and talking to a local framer and getting a b***s**t answer because he thinks that I am stealing work from them. Although it is slow our refferals have kept us plenty busy and many of the contractors are jealous. So you guys all that have posted on here I appreciate all the information and advice that you bring to the Forum!!!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Hey guys,
Well I see in a post that some may think that I am in over my head. I have a family to raise and support because my wife is a stay at home mom. I dont know about you guys but I may have not done a lot of house framing to learn about structural ridges and my dad who taught me about framing and remodeling didnt really get into complex framing because he stayed busy without having to get into it. I am trying to get into the work myself though because I can do the framing where he is getting older and doesnt want to do it. I ask you guys about the whole vaulted ceiling to learn what I may not know and to understand it as well. I didnt understand the drawing at first. Then as I thought about it and talked to the guy at structural products I realized what a ridge beam is. I always thought that a ridge board was the same and didnt realize there were 2 different things. I see why you are yall are saying to use 2x12's now. 1 board to cut per rafter instead of having to cut 2 different boards a whole bunch. The pics that Timuhler posted have definately helped in the understanding. It put Wallmaxx's drawing into perspective and in real life for me. I hope to one day maybe not right now but to be able to get on here and answer others questions about the same type subjects and give them a respectful answer. I appreciate all you guys do in helping me out on these issues and is definatley helping me out in the estimation stage as well as in the actual framing stages. I can normally ask my dad most of this and he will know but he is in Florida waiting on his mom to pass and then heading on a cruise so you guys were the only other choice to ask besides going and talking to a local framer and getting a b***s**t answer because he thinks that I am stealing work from them. Although it is slow our refferals have kept us plenty busy and many of the contractors are jealous. So you guys all that have posted on here I appreciate all the information and advice that you bring to the Forum!!!
 
Hey guys,
Well I see in a post that some may think that I am in over my head. I have a family to raise and support because my wife is a stay at home mom. I dont know about you guys but I may have not done a lot of house framing to learn about structural ridges and my dad who taught me about framing and remodeling didnt really get into complex framing because he stayed busy without having to get into it. I am trying to get into the work myself though because I can do the framing where he is getting older and doesnt want to do it. I ask you guys about the whole vaulted ceiling to learn what I may not know and to understand it as well. I didnt understand the drawing at first. Then as I thought about it and talked to the guy at structural products I realized what a ridge beam is. I always thought that a ridge board was the same and didnt realize there were 2 different things. I see why you are yall are saying to use 2x12's now. 1 board to cut per rafter instead of having to cut 2 different boards a whole bunch. The pics that Timuhler posted have definately helped in the understanding. It put Wallmaxx's drawing into perspective and in real life for me. I hope to one day maybe not right now but to be able to get on here and answer others questions about the same type subjects and give them a respectful answer. I appreciate all you guys do in helping me out on these issues and is definatley helping me out in the estimation stage as well as in the actual framing stages. I can normally ask my dad most of this and he will know but he is in Florida waiting on his mom to pass and then heading on a cruise so you guys were the only other choice to ask besides going and talking to a local framer and getting a b***s**t answer because he thinks that I am stealing work from them. Although it is slow our refferals have kept us plenty busy and many of the contractors are jealous. So you guys all that have posted on here I appreciate all the information and advice that you bring to the Forum!!!
I'm finally getting the hang of SketchUp so maybe if I can tomorrow I'll draw up something quick in 3D so you can see it. But don't hold your breath, I've got a lot to do, but will try to do it.
 
Tim

in your first pic I see some very tall v notched bird blocks - I've never used or installed them....what's the skinny on them?
We used I-joists for the rafters on that house because of the length (can't remember now but 29' or something like that). Wherever there were interior bearing walls framed to the rafters, or you can see in that picture there was a beam to provide intermediate support, the joists were required to be blocked.

Because that house was mostly vaulted, I cut a v notch to allow air to pass through from the eaves vents to the ridge vent.

I went with dimensional for most of the valley jacks because the hangers were $50 a peice.
 
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