Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Trouble with roller lines using 18" wooster

1 reading
Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
K

KJLinden2002

· Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm currently painting a new Pamida store and am repainting it because of severe roller lines. The walls are under critical light that consist of florescent lighting right above all surfaces. The walls are also new construction, which shouldn't matter cause I primed them and everything was blocked out. And they are all about 14' tall by 150' long. When I stand about five feet away it looks perfect. However, if I look down the wall I see a lot of angular sheen where the rollers were.

I used:
SW high hold out primer
SW eggshell Pro-Mar 400
Wooster 18" roller frame

I used the second time:
SW high hold out primer
SW low sheen Pro-Mar 200
Wooster 18" roller frame

The second time will probably be my finished coat. It looks pretty good. However, one of the walls where there is a lot of lighting, still doesn't look all that good. I'm unhappy with the job and am curious:

What do you guys think of the Pro-Mar on bigger walls?

What do you guys think of the Pro-Mar under critical lighting?

What do you guys think of the Pro-Mar in higher sheens?

Finally, how about the Wooster roller frame? I love it but could it be causing my roller marks?
 
#2 ·
I found that any time you have to run a sheen, other than flat, down a long stretch of wall under alot of lighting you will have a consistency issue if you stop between applying(i.e. lunch or break). As for the 18 inch roller, it's heavy and difficult to keep it even especially if you have to run it up 14 feet of wall. Basically you have a tough job to keep it even. Is it possible to spray it and back roll to get an even amount of paint on the walls? I honestly don't know what else you'd do to avoid any roller lines down a long wall of 150'. Good luck!
 
#3 ·
Top Three Causes of Roller Lines

1)
Poor quality paint
(I can't say for Pro Mar, don't recall using it)
2)
Poor quality sleeves
(You don't say what sleeves you are using)
3)
Poor technique
(usually trying to 'squeeze' out the paint rather than applying it)

Defective or badly designed frame is certainly possible but not likely
More likely its how it's used (technique issue)
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #4 ·
As I recall I used a poly and a soft woven roller cover. Maybe the poly didn't work well with the sheen paint. Also, regarding the spraying question, I did try to spray and back-roll the first time. Maybe I just didn't apply enough paint. I did have my ultra 600 up full blast with a two foot tip on an extension. I tried a level three finish (two coats of paint) then had to try a level 4 (primer then paint).

Another question I would like answered is, can't you just spray a surface and that be your final coat. I haven't sprayed much interior other than air assisted and trim. I do know that when spraying vehicles that the spray finish is your final finish. Is it possible to hook an airless gun up and just keep an even spray the entire way. If not, I assume you can at least do it for primer?
 
#5 ·
KJLinden2002 said:
As I recall I used a poly and a soft woven roller cover.
Click to expand...
Many different qualities of these, but a true woven is in the right direction
Pro- or Super -Dooz Wooster maybe?
50/50 or wool would be better
Or Purdy White Dove if they come in 18s...not sure they do

KJLinden2002 said:
I did have my ultra 600 up full blast with a two foot tip on an extension.
Click to expand...
If you had it up to full pressure, there's another issue
The tip will only allow a certain amount of paint through, upping the pressure won't help (if you are having other issues)
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#6 ·
KJ - It is recommend to spray & back roll drywall 1) to stipple to wall for touchups, 2) Work the product better into the drywall, i dunno but some say without backroll, the product atually "floats" on the wall.

Im doing a flip house right now where we sprayed all walls with primer without backroll a thing. These are all painted plaster walls though
 
#10 ·
What size nap on that 18" bad boy?

Are the walls studded at 16" on center? Are you sure what you're seeing are roller marks?

What I'm getting at is, with a short nap, really wide roller, it will not fill in the dips evenly. You can bet that there are going to be dips unless each and every stud is exacly straight with all the others. New construction is likely two coats of mud, NOT floated out far enough to make the wall perfectly flat.

A 3/4 nap roller will help, using light pressure on the last strokes.

Pro-mar 200 in any sheen will be the least worry. Of course, flat will always look better.

If what you are seeing IS roller tracks, then it's just a matter of using more care laying out the final strokes.
 
#11 ·
Here's a pointer for ya, DON'T use 18 inch rollers, they're garbage. Take a little more time and use the old nine inch rollers. The 18's almost always leave holidays and IMO, most people can't handle them for a full day. I don't allow them on any of my jobs.
 
#12 ·
Dorman Painting said:
Here's a pointer for ya, DON'T use 18 inch rollers, they're garbage. Take a little more time and use the old nine inch rollers. The 18's almost always leave holidays and IMO, most people can't handle them for a full day. I don't allow them on any of my jobs.
Click to expand...
HMMMM, not sure I agree with this post,how can any tool be garbage ? is it not more the user or is it always the tool? I mean try using a great quality lambskin 3/4 inch nap and tell me it's junk....
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
If I didn't use 18" rollers we would be there all day. I used a 1/2" nap and that might have been some of the cause. Also, we were really careful in laying the paint on. We even went so far as used all down strokes so the paint would stipple the same direction. We also, didn't roll over already drying paint.

As far as the 18" roller goes, I don't see any other way to do a commercial job. The Wooster roller frame is AWSOME and rolls smoothly. I used it on a 14' pole extended to about 10 for 10 hours. While it was a good work out on my biceps, I could do it every day. I do recommend the 18" roller.

Also, I don't see how an 18" roller would give me more pronounced lines. It would seem, that I would get about half of the lines and that the roller would float a little better because it has more surface area.

What are holidays and IMO's? I'm not current with the lingo.

Also I know for a fact that it isn't the drywall or the framing.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I have since repainted it with a low-sheen and it turned out better. However, I still can see the lines at about a 10 degree angle. I don't know if this is normal cause I don't paint 150' walls all the time. Thanks for your guys input.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I think the paint (ProMar 200 Satin) is fine, the Wooster frame is fine, the 1/2 inch nap is fine. The likely main cause here is ".. we even went so far as used all down strokes so the paint would stipple the same direction." The pronounced duller lines are perhaps resulted from rolling over the semi-drying paint unnecessarily, which in some way roughens the layer of sheen that's in the process of forming and drying naturally..
The additional step of going back and applying down strokes for uniformity purpose is not neccessary. After laying the paint on quickly and evenly, leave the section alone and let the paint do the rest. Hope this helps.
 
#18 ·
I know this is an old post but I recently had the same problems with Promar 200 eggshell....used Wooster 18" 3/8" white nap rollers.....rep came out and gave us Sw Cashmere paint low luster.....job turned out better....but not perfect....for the two story foyer we had two 18's going ....one guy painting upper half of the wall and the other guy rolling up to meet him.....I think personally with the reformulation of paints to meet voc regs it might cause the paint to dry faster so it is harder to keep a wet edge....:eek:
 
#19 ·
In my opinion the problem may have been with the choice of paint. One of the differences of high end paint is its ability to self level. I have put on alot of Promar 200 but in a critical light area I think I would have put on a better quality paint.

As for the 18" rollers, to each their own, they are not for me. I found my production rate went down with them.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Wooster makes a 1/4" nap 18" roller. Using a 3/4" nap as some have suggested would be a disaster for a paint with a sheen that's subject to being viewed near a bright light. What about using an 18" airless roller nap? They make them with short naps for enamels.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
About this Discussion
20 Replies
14 Participants
Last post:
mark DRP
Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum
posts
3.6M
members
169K
Since
2003
A forum community dedicated to professional construction and remodeling contractors. Come join the discussion about the industry, trades, safety, projects, finishing, tools, machinery, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussion Tools & Equipment Business Painting & Finish Work Decks & Fencing