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I've never tried a roller just a walk behind (talk about kick the shiz out of ya) I only used em in basements becouse I'd heard that about popping. I know down south of here in st. Goerge they use them on exterior. Maybe I'll give it a try, it does make for nice finishing mud.
 
Respectfully Mr. Griz, I would have to side with Ninja on that one. My understanding is that jitterbugging/tamping does in fact push the aggregate down creating more of a cream/butter. But, that increases the possibility of spalling or popping off in the freeze thaw process. I personally do not use them for that reason. Otherwise, why not just use portland cement and sand only, no aggregate?
 
I think we have a basic misunderstanding....

after the roller tamper aggregate remains right at the top.

Yes, if you roll it too much it will be driven down & mostly cream on top.

However, too much water can also make this happen.

Roller tamper is not a magic bullet...just another useful tool...:thumbsup:
 
You have to becareful using a roller tamp in cold weather especially with air entrained concrete. If u get on it to soon its a good way to trap air between the paste and the agg, wich will cause delaminating of the floor. Same as using a rider to soon.
 
With proper tooling there should be no need to use a jitterbug, and unless experienced you do run a strong chance of pushing the aggregate done to far causing popping, spalling, surface cracking, and most importantly a lower strength concrete.
 
I am going to bring this one back from the dead.

I just discovered these too and would like to know how they are properly used.

I have a jitterbug (hate it, back killer) but when we do use it it's after raking, and before screeding to help cream the surface up a bit.

Because of the roller design of this one it seems you would use it after screeding and before bull floating. Am I wrong?

Will this aid in creaming up low slump stuff before bull floating or am I mistaken. Anything to help make flatter floors and be more efficient doing it it is a tool worth owning, but I'm not sure if I want to buy one of these or not.
 
In south Dakota we use a mix very similar to 47B. That is big aggregate with sharp points and flat sides. We rolled rock after strike off and before floating.

It is commonly used for exposed aggregate concrete. The mix aggregate is pushed down with the jitterbug and the. The decorative aggregate is broadcast onto the surface. Once broadcast we use a wood bull to work it into the top finish and then spray it down with the set retarder.

I've never heard of the roller causing Spall but I have seen first hand what happens when a flat sided aggregate is too close to the surface.
 
I haven't used or seen used a gandy, roller or otherwise, in 20 years. They have just fallen out of favor here, for whatever reason. I take that back. I saw a guy finish a boat ramp with one a few years ago. I think the biggest reason is the advent of vibra-strike type screeds that will bring up the cream just as well. One thing we have to deal with around here, Ninja and I, is all the road salt the Utaliban spreads on the roads. That stuff will take the top off just about anything.
 
I also haven't seen one used for at least 20 years. A guy offered to give me one the other day. I turned it down. We use a power screed for almost everything. I told him, I just couldn't see where it would help, when you use a power screed. I could be wrong.

He also offered me a concrete vibrator. We don't pour walls so I couldn't see a use for it. Does anyone use them on flat work? He told me I could, but again, I think the vibrating screed does the job for me.
 
He also offered me a concrete vibrator. We don't pour walls so I couldn't see a use for it. Does anyone use them on flat work? He told me I could, but again, I think the vibrating screed does the job for me.
We use them on a deep/thick edge form from time to time, but more often than not we use one of those small vibrators and a cordless, like the masons use to consolidate grout in CMU. Oh yeah, on tilt panels, too.
 
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