Can some one enlighten me on why 1 or the other. I have a 18G and a pin nailer I use for baseboards. But lately I seem to have to hang a lot of doors. That's the only reason/excuse I need to get a new tool.:thumbup: Also any brands to look at or stay away from.
16 or 15 gauge finish air nailer
gowings
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I don't even own a 16 gauge. 15 gauge for doors, big trim, t&g 1x, exterior stuff, or if I'm using the 18 gauge, and hit a spot where I find I need a bit more holding power. 18 gauge is my go to choice for most trim. The 23 gauge comes out now and then, for very fine stuff, very small trim, fixing cracks (with glue), ect.
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I get paid to work to those same tolerances but at a production pace.
Almost every sagging door that I have ever tuned up suffered from one of two problems. Either the center screws were not changed on the hinges or shims were skipped, usually the one above the bottom hinge. A nailed jamb will remain perfect over the long haul if it is installed properly.
There is a common misconception that production work means sloppy and sub standard workmanship. It doesn't. Reveals need to be maintained, joints need to be tight, and the finished product must be both aesthetically pleasing and durable. Production is a mindset. You are constantly looking to cut out unnecessary footsteps and shave time off a job without compromising or improving quality. At some point in their career every carpenter would benefit from working in a production environment. They would see improvements both in efficiency and quality.
I actually like working piece rates (depending on the job). I've done large scale cabinet installs where I was making around $200 per hour while turning out tight work.
The Jamo screws are fun too use. If it feels like you are cheating then you are using them correctly.:thumbsup:
I just ordered some of those Jamo screws. I've been looking at the GRK top stars for those special circumstances when they would be applicable but the GRK's are pricey. Looking forward to trying out these Jamos. Much more economical. Thanks yet again.
You can probably turn up a few thread on the subject searching in the finish carpentry section. I know I've asked this question before.
I shim behind the hinges. I used to drive a long 3 inch screw through the center hole on the hinges for extra security, now I put a long screw behind each of the hinges when I plumb the hinge side. This way the painters aren't messing with my adjustments.
Some people don't like to shim behind the hinges so that future adjustments can be made. Usually adjustments are only going to need to be made in the event of settling or hinge sag from heavy weight/heavily used doors. To me both of these adjustments can be remedied on the actual door hinge by bending with a crecent wrench.
Gary knows what he's doing though, I'm sure he has very good reason for his methods.
My door install problem goes something like this: I will install a pre-hung dead-on plumb, then get a sag a couple days later that affects the latching. Jamb is still plumb. I do shim and use a couple long screws, so I think it's mostly quality of the door and/or hinge. Anybody else?
Now I just hang them to accommodate that bit of eventual sag.
Now I just hang them to accommodate that bit of eventual sag.
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Ignore the Wurth instructions on not predrilling a hole. Pilot an 1/8" hole and drive the screw so the head buries about an 1/8" deep. Make sure everything is where you want it before you drive the screws because they don't like to come out and make a big mess when they do.
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Shimmed above and below with a screw snugged up either through the hinge or behind the hinge.
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Same here. 18g brads on the inside edge of casings. 23g pins on crown coners.
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Regarding nailing doors in, I took it to mean that using screws allows you to fine tune and adjust it more easily if something is slightly off. I'm anal about door fit and use screws. It is easy to pull the casing to the point where they flex slightly, even with shims. I'm sure if you get everything perfect on the first go, nails will hold it fine.
oh man, Im ordering some of these!
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I cleared out a local lumberyard of their top stars for half price. Said they've had them on the shelf for years since they were required to purchase a certain amount of the Grk line to be a dealer. Told them I needed a bunch and they said we'll give them to you cheap if you buy them all. Done.
I got a couple boxes of the jamos but j haven't used them once yet. But I think when I do I'll be glad I've got them.
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Try GRK's composite deck screws with the back threads on base board copes. It's common to have the bottom of a cope to stay a bit open because of the factory edge on the drywall. Pilot a small hole in the butt piece down low enough that shoe will cover it and drive in one of the trim screws so the back threads bury. Flip the drill in reverse and goose the trigger until the cope closes. Faster and easier than using a screw behind the base or a nail behind, etc. Their also useful for tweaking things like jamb extensions as well.
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I keep a few sizes of those for a lot of things. They work great.
The top-stars were for pulling in some windows I had to put replacement sash packs in.
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