In a couple days I will be painting a newly constructed sunroom. There's quite a bit of treated lumber in this project. I have never in my 15 years painted new treated lumber. She is insistant that we proceed even though I have always heard that treated lumber needs to "age". Any special precautions I can use with this. Im thinking prime it with oil based primer...but I need a little input, thanks.
Painting treated lumber
donb1959
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All PT I see has a small plastic label stapled to it, usually on the end grain, it will tell you the treatment and the percentage so you know if it can be used for ground contact or not.ProWallGuy said:How does one go about finding out what and how it was treated with?
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Thanks much. :Thumbs:Mike Finley said:
I just finished a very large project staining a house, deck, porch, etc. The old house and deck materials took the stain great.
They had all new railings and spindals put on the deck (over 500 spindals we did). They were new and took the stain great.
The tops of the rails were also new, they began to seep sap after we put our first coat on.
The new deck they had put on with treated lumber (deck planks, spindals, rails) also began to seep sap. The spindals actually didn't, but some of the deck, and most of the rails did.
We acknowledged that the new stuff should wait, but also told them that we would come back at the end of the season (4 months) and sand down excessive areas and restain.
They had all new railings and spindals put on the deck (over 500 spindals we did). They were new and took the stain great.
The tops of the rails were also new, they began to seep sap after we put our first coat on.
The new deck they had put on with treated lumber (deck planks, spindals, rails) also began to seep sap. The spindals actually didn't, but some of the deck, and most of the rails did.
We acknowledged that the new stuff should wait, but also told them that we would come back at the end of the season (4 months) and sand down excessive areas and restain.
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The spindles had time to dry, the rest didn't. If you used a sealer/stain all that you did is create a pressure cooker, the same thing happens on oily woods like teak. Once you seal it from the air the sap/oils 'cook' inside and will push any finish off.
14 years on, I'm curious how it all worked out...
ACQ doesn't exist here in Hawaii (does it anywhere anymore? fastener-corrosion issues, methinks...) and borate-PT is the norm. Lumber usually comes off the bunk SOAKING wet. It'd be insane to seal it with anything, maybe for months or even years, depending on where it's installed (exposed or not, humid or less-humid).
I got here hoping for a thread on priming over copper-naphthalene, the standard solvent-borne fungi-termi-cide to post-factory-treat anything you might be worried about. Can't find a damned thing. I'll check back in 14 years or so.
Dave
ACQ doesn't exist here in Hawaii (does it anywhere anymore? fastener-corrosion issues, methinks...) and borate-PT is the norm. Lumber usually comes off the bunk SOAKING wet. It'd be insane to seal it with anything, maybe for months or even years, depending on where it's installed (exposed or not, humid or less-humid).
I got here hoping for a thread on priming over copper-naphthalene, the standard solvent-borne fungi-termi-cide to post-factory-treat anything you might be worried about. Can't find a damned thing. I'll check back in 14 years or so.
Dave
We use PT 1x for exterior trim right out of Honolulu wood treating in Cambell and the painters paint the house as soon as we are done and never had a problem. Oh they also paint that T1-11 PT siding and the paint sticks:thumbsup:
Yes, borate treated is only for indoor applications like Cali says, water will leach it out over time. What's nice about it is it's not corrosive with metal, no issues there I believe.
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Borate is basically soap. It takes a lot of Borate to kill termites. At which point it makes sense to just go ACQ. And my understanding is borate is just a surface treatment it's not pressurized treatment. Out here it's marketed as an indoor product only. There are no manufacturers that will back up a borate product used for decks here. The only thing I'll use it for is bottom plate.
Mike.
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Mike.
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I agree as an added layer of protection that would work great. Especially where checking occurs.
Mike.
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New cut ends I use copper green. Once it's all built, I use Bora Care.
Added insurance, particularly against cracks through the treatment that always show up. I'll treat pt decks before a repaint as well. It's extremely fast and pretty inexpensive.
You should check out the product claims.
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I'm not concerned because of California, I'm more about not getting all over on someone else's property. Especially coppergreen. That stuff is nasty.
Mike.
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I wasn't very clear there. It isn't very toxic or harmful to the environment, so treating an existing deck isn't as much of a concern as with something like copper green.
Bora care is made from:
Borax
Boric acid
Ethylene glycol.
It's pretty dilute with water when it goes on. I haven't seen it hurt grass or shrubs. Keeping it confined to a deck and the area under it is pretty easy.
O still wouldn't spritz the neighbor with it.
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