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I was doing a roof deck rebuild earlier this week and the stairs going up were 6ft wide and I think 16 treads high. When I looked underneath to see how it was built I was amazed.

First thing I see is 3x12 treated stringers, I have never seen these before. Strong and beefy but they were barely attached to a 2x6 platform above so for all the extra effort in the step that connection was a liability to me.
 
The most crucial stair attachment point is the bottom of the stringer because it deals with a few forces.So if there is a solid landing or a footing which will prevent the stair from forward or downward movement, you will have a solid staircase.
The use of stair hanger at the top stringer only acts against the uplift force, so a simple hurricane strap on the inside or a typical reinforcing angle bracket (which I prefer to use) is much better.
Here is an image I made to show how these forces act on the staircase.
 

Attachments

Can't use pylwood on interior stringer system ???????? Something is not right there. :no:

As far as exterior goes..............Festerized gets my vote.
Can not use plywood here in MN for stairs hanging already for 10 years. I use it still always if inspector will not show up (very rare case). After a dose building of "extended 4X4" (how other member call it) I get used to it. TBH would not like that stairs in my house hang at nails&3/4 plywood.
 
I've been meaning to snap some pictures of our stair framing. I've settled on one of two methods, depending on the landing placement. We either use a 2x12 rim if it's inset, or hang another joist below the rim if it's a continuous rim. Either way, we drop the 4x4 railing posts to the bottom of the section where the stringers land. If it's getting a joist added below the rim then we install 2x4's behind the rims and hit them with Flatloks.

I use the Simpson LSC hangers on the rim. If the stair run is perpendicular to the joists then I block back two joist bays at the stair location.
 
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